Improving arrow cresting...
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- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Improving arrow cresting...
Hi guys,
I thought that I would post this to ask a few questions and to give a few hints to anyone who might want to do this... My questions are in bold, the rest is in normal font.
I have found that when cresting, the paint dries very quickly (as the paint is going on at a reasonably high speed). This allows thin and even coverage. The problem is that to get enough paint on there, you need to get a lot of paint on your brush. Do you guys thin your paints at all? I am using modelling acryllics. They look very nice, but I find that I need to have a little blob on the end of my brush to get enough paint onto the shaft.
I have found that regardless of how much I try to straighten the arrows, there is still a little wobble. One thing I have found that works very well is to have the brush pressed against the shaft so that rather than having just the tip touching, I have the brush bending around the shaft a bit. This means that as the shaft moves in and out slightly, the brush handles it. This is of course only capable with a thin brush. The idea is that the bristles are always splayed to the maximum width regardless of how the shaft might wobble slightly. Has anyone else done this before?
I might note here that I am using Vic Ash shafts. They are pretty straight, but not dead straight and trying to straighten them is fairly difficult.
Cutting the nock taper first (if you are doing it that way) makes the shafting easier as then you can check the point of the taper to centre the shaft in the tubing on the cresting jig.
Make sure that you have your cresting jig be variable speed!!! It is absolutely terrific.
When doing your first coat of varnish, make sure that the varnish is thick enough (do multiple coats if necessary) to fill in the fissures in the wood's surface.
Learn from me - a dark coloured dip/spray is harder to use than a light coloured one. Mine was black - it meant that for my read and blue lines, I needed to do a white undercoat.
If any of the more experienced guys can point out where I might improve/have any tricks and tips - please feel free to impart your knowledge!
Lastly, have fun - it is really great. Also, have plenty of shafts to play with as you might find it kind of addictive.
Cam
I thought that I would post this to ask a few questions and to give a few hints to anyone who might want to do this... My questions are in bold, the rest is in normal font.
I have found that when cresting, the paint dries very quickly (as the paint is going on at a reasonably high speed). This allows thin and even coverage. The problem is that to get enough paint on there, you need to get a lot of paint on your brush. Do you guys thin your paints at all? I am using modelling acryllics. They look very nice, but I find that I need to have a little blob on the end of my brush to get enough paint onto the shaft.
I have found that regardless of how much I try to straighten the arrows, there is still a little wobble. One thing I have found that works very well is to have the brush pressed against the shaft so that rather than having just the tip touching, I have the brush bending around the shaft a bit. This means that as the shaft moves in and out slightly, the brush handles it. This is of course only capable with a thin brush. The idea is that the bristles are always splayed to the maximum width regardless of how the shaft might wobble slightly. Has anyone else done this before?
I might note here that I am using Vic Ash shafts. They are pretty straight, but not dead straight and trying to straighten them is fairly difficult.
Cutting the nock taper first (if you are doing it that way) makes the shafting easier as then you can check the point of the taper to centre the shaft in the tubing on the cresting jig.
Make sure that you have your cresting jig be variable speed!!! It is absolutely terrific.
When doing your first coat of varnish, make sure that the varnish is thick enough (do multiple coats if necessary) to fill in the fissures in the wood's surface.
Learn from me - a dark coloured dip/spray is harder to use than a light coloured one. Mine was black - it meant that for my read and blue lines, I needed to do a white undercoat.
If any of the more experienced guys can point out where I might improve/have any tricks and tips - please feel free to impart your knowledge!
Lastly, have fun - it is really great. Also, have plenty of shafts to play with as you might find it kind of addictive.
Cam
Cam,
Can't say I have had too much trouble with paints drying too quick?
must be the cold temps down there in Tassie eh?
What I have found is having too much paint on the brush will give you big, thick wobbly lines, if it all comes off in a rush.
I don't thin paints for cresting. I used to thin my paints for capping but now that I use spray, I don't/ can't.
getting a shaft dead straight is hard and as to getting around that for cresting, Jeff has the technique that works best. Put the point end of the arrow in the cresting machine and slide the V block right up next to where your cresting at the other end. I also apply a little preasure on the shaft over the V block to further minimise movement.
What kind of brush are you using?
A quality needle point brush like the one I use (see below) should give good results without the need for overloading it with paint.
Can't say I have had too much trouble with paints drying too quick?
must be the cold temps down there in Tassie eh?
What I have found is having too much paint on the brush will give you big, thick wobbly lines, if it all comes off in a rush.
I don't thin paints for cresting. I used to thin my paints for capping but now that I use spray, I don't/ can't.
getting a shaft dead straight is hard and as to getting around that for cresting, Jeff has the technique that works best. Put the point end of the arrow in the cresting machine and slide the V block right up next to where your cresting at the other end. I also apply a little preasure on the shaft over the V block to further minimise movement.
be careful no to apply too much preasure when doing this or you can get the same results as putting too much paint on the brush.One thing I have found that works very well is to have the brush pressed against the shaft so that rather than having just the tip touching, I have the brush bending around the shaft a bit. This means that as the shaft moves in and out slightly, the brush handles it.
What kind of brush are you using?
A quality needle point brush like the one I use (see below) should give good results without the need for overloading it with paint.
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- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Thanks Matt,
I do put the rest right beside where I am cresting, but the motor stops if I apply any downwards pressure to the shaft.
I am using a wide flat brush, a 0 and a 3/0. I haven't really bothered using my 5/0 yet.
The technique you highlighted below actually works very well - for me. It ends up with a perfect line. However, rather than looking like it was done with a 0 brush, it looks more like a 1 or 2... Thus, you need to consider this when selecting a brush. What do you use to weigh down the shaft?
Cam
I do put the rest right beside where I am cresting, but the motor stops if I apply any downwards pressure to the shaft.
I am using a wide flat brush, a 0 and a 3/0. I haven't really bothered using my 5/0 yet.
The technique you highlighted below actually works very well - for me. It ends up with a perfect line. However, rather than looking like it was done with a 0 brush, it looks more like a 1 or 2... Thus, you need to consider this when selecting a brush. What do you use to weigh down the shaft?
Cam
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
- Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Cam
I've tried using acrylic paints in the past, but I didn't like they way worked. The colours don't cover well at all unless the undercoat is almost the same colour. I didn't like the texture either. I thought it dried too thick. Either I had wishy washy colours or paint piled on too thick.
I decided to use the little enamel cans made by Humbrol. They are used to paint models. This paint covers like a dream and is great to use, however it doesn't like being covered with a clear lacquer, as it will often bubble up. I just leave it as the top coating on the shaft. It wears very well because it's a lot tougher than acrylic paint.
Like Matt suggested you definitely need a "V" block to steady your shaft. I made my "V" block slightly too high, so the shaft has to bend slightly to go through it. The result is a rock steady shaft everytime. You do need a reasonably powerful motor to ensure the revs are maintained. I use my electric vari-speed drill and its works perfectly.
Good luck with your cresting mate!
Mick
I've tried using acrylic paints in the past, but I didn't like they way worked. The colours don't cover well at all unless the undercoat is almost the same colour. I didn't like the texture either. I thought it dried too thick. Either I had wishy washy colours or paint piled on too thick.
I decided to use the little enamel cans made by Humbrol. They are used to paint models. This paint covers like a dream and is great to use, however it doesn't like being covered with a clear lacquer, as it will often bubble up. I just leave it as the top coating on the shaft. It wears very well because it's a lot tougher than acrylic paint.
Like Matt suggested you definitely need a "V" block to steady your shaft. I made my "V" block slightly too high, so the shaft has to bend slightly to go through it. The result is a rock steady shaft everytime. You do need a reasonably powerful motor to ensure the revs are maintained. I use my electric vari-speed drill and its works perfectly.
Good luck with your cresting mate!
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Thanks Mick,
I will consider the enamels. Interesting about the paint bubbling up after varnishing...
I certainly do have a V block, there is no way the shaft would be supported otherwise, but it still has a little wobble to it - not much but a little.
I think my V block is a little too high, but maybe it needs to be a little higher still... Hmmm.
Anyway, thanks for the tip regarding enamels - only my girlfriend wouldn't let me use enamels inside the house 'cause they stink...
The troubles we have to go through!!
Cam
I will consider the enamels. Interesting about the paint bubbling up after varnishing...
I certainly do have a V block, there is no way the shaft would be supported otherwise, but it still has a little wobble to it - not much but a little.
I think my V block is a little too high, but maybe it needs to be a little higher still... Hmmm.
Anyway, thanks for the tip regarding enamels - only my girlfriend wouldn't let me use enamels inside the house 'cause they stink...
The troubles we have to go through!!
Cam
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Ahhh, but she hasn't been to obedience school and doesn't understand the stay command. Actually - I think she sent me to obedience school while I wasn't aware. Maybe she plays tapes at night to get into my subconscious:
"Listen to me or I will give you hell..."
"You must obey me. It is the natural order of things..."
and then I wake up the next day and do as she says!
Actually to be fair, she allows all kinds of garbage all over the house and doesn't flinch too much at expesnive tool purchases. But nasty chemical smells are where she draws the line.
"Listen to me or I will give you hell..."
"You must obey me. It is the natural order of things..."
and then I wake up the next day and do as she says!
Actually to be fair, she allows all kinds of garbage all over the house and doesn't flinch too much at expesnive tool purchases. But nasty chemical smells are where she draws the line.
Yeah but it doesn't help any if he gets the wrong colourtimbo wrote:Gees Cam why don't you buy her some nice fingernail polish!! Can't smell any worse then the enamel. And you might get some brownie points for thinking about her without being prompted
Just a thought.
Cheers Tim
Thats so true the females don't complain about the fumes from their nail polish, BUT when it came to me staining my wood shafts at the table tonight boy did ..it hit the fan when she came out into the dining room and smelt it talk about double standards.
Bow Hunting is my Passion.
My wife says it's my Obsession.
Either way I'm happy.
My wife says it's my Obsession.
Either way I'm happy.
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
That is the point. I am not using enamels, so they don't smell. I am using acrylics (I think that they are Tamiya brand).
They work perfectly well for me - other than drying out quickly (which is also sort of a good thing as by the time I am done with one set of lines, I am ready for the next as the arrow shaft is dry.
Cam
They work perfectly well for me - other than drying out quickly (which is also sort of a good thing as by the time I am done with one set of lines, I am ready for the next as the arrow shaft is dry.
Cam
I just bought some Humbrol enamel model paints yesterday from BigW for $2 each. In the model shop they were trying to flog the same size tin (small) for $5-$6 each
Here's a mocked up prototype of what my arrows will/should look like once finished.
The colours are white, orange, black and silver with the shafts stained with FeastWatson Prooftint "Cedar"
5" parabolic orange feathers (will get a shield cutter next time)
I'm still undecided on the broadhead to use, am tossing up between the tusker concord or the ribbies
Here's a mocked up prototype of what my arrows will/should look like once finished.
The colours are white, orange, black and silver with the shafts stained with FeastWatson Prooftint "Cedar"
5" parabolic orange feathers (will get a shield cutter next time)
I'm still undecided on the broadhead to use, am tossing up between the tusker concord or the ribbies
Bow Hunting is my Passion.
My wife says it's my Obsession.
Either way I'm happy.
My wife says it's my Obsession.
Either way I'm happy.
- Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
- Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria