4 inch drop point WIP
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4 inch drop point WIP
Hi all,
Here is a bit of a WIP on a four inch drop point I have just finished. It will have a full flat grind and a tapered tang. And sambar stag on the handle
First I trace the stencil onto a flat bar stock piece of ATS-34.
I cut the blade roughly to shape on the bandsaw and then grind it down to its final profile with 60 grit.
I mark out the pin holes for the handles and centre punch them
Drilling the holes in the handle
Pin holes drilled in handle and holes to lighten the handle.
Then I grind the small piece of steel in front of the bolster that isn’t going to be ground in the flat grind. And finish to 400 grit
Here I am hollowing out the handle to do a tapered tang
I now make the tapered dang flat on each side. The reason for hollowing it out is to make it easier to do the flattening as there is less steel to remove.
Now I take a few hollows out of each side to do the flat grind. The hollows do the same in this step at they do when I do the tapered tang.
Here’s a picture of it finished to 400 grit on the grinder. I work through the grits 50, 240, 400grit.
Now I hand polish to get all the scratches running the one way along the blade, I do this to 400grit before heat treatment.
Here it is back from heat treatment with another one I had done at the same time.
I clamp the knife to a piece of timber that I have mounted in a bench vice
Start to sand with 400 grit. The piece of steel is surface ground on the other side so it is perfectly flat.
400grit finished
800 grit finished. I finish the 800 going in a different direction then the 400 so I can make sure all the 400 scratches are out.
1200 grit finished
2000 grit finished
I repeat that on the other side and then go to the cloth buffing wheel.
I use a sown wheel with a medium compound to start
Then go to an unsown wheel with a fine compound.
I then start on bolsters. I use 416 stainless.
Here I have marked it out for the cut.
In the proses of cutting them out
Cut out and one side sanded flat
I’ve got one clamped to the knife drilling the 3/32 holes for the pin. Do this to both bolsters
Here I have a 2.5mm drill bit and I go half way through the bolster. This creates a bit of a cavity for the pin to fill in when it is pened.
Grinding the front and back to right angles.
Sanding front to 400 on grinder then to 1200 by hand. Finish on the cloth buffing wheel
Forgot to take a couple of pics here but IV peened the bolsters on and shaped them to roughly what they will finish at.
I decided to use some samba antler for the handle.
I split it down the centre on the bandsaw.
Outline the knife handle on the inside of the antler.
Grind down to your handle line and you are left with a thick white bit on the inside.
I cut the white bit off and then sand it to make sure it is flat.
Now I cut out some red fibber for my liners and they are ready to glue onto the samba.
Now it is time to add the red spacer to the antler.
I glue and clamp the red spacer to the antler
I then flatten the face of the antler up again to bring the spacer flush with the antler
Then I glue the front spacers on.
And grind them back flush with the bottom of the first spacer. This makes a nice sharp corner so you don’t have any gap when it comes to the finish.
I then clamp one side of the handle tang and drill the ¼ inch lanyard hole and the four 3/32 inch holes for pins.
I also drill out a few holes going through the spacer to the antler so that when the handle is glues there is direct glue contact from the steel tang to the antler.
Both sides done ready to be glued
Pins cut and ready
All glued and in clamps
Now it is taken out of clamps ready for the handle to be shaped
Shaped on the grinder with 60 grit
Shaped on grinder to 400 grit
Some of the pins stick up a little so i use a dremel tool to take the pin down
I sand the bolster back to 2000 grit by hand
Sand the steel around the edges back to 2000
Here it is ready to be buffed
Buffed ready for sheath and etching
Now I do the etching
Here’s my gear that I use, it’s a personalize plus etching machine.
Here are the stencils i use they get taped to the blade with electrical tape
In the process of etching. There is a chemical that you put onto the etching pad. This eats the steel away that is through the stencil. And then it is switched to mark and the electrode current is switched around and this puts the black into the mark.
After etching has finished
Cleaned the blade off with the cleaner that takes the acid off.
The drop point and another little one i did at the same time
Now it’s up to doing the sheath.
I make a stencil out of paper to begin with.
Then i cut it out to the lines using a band saw. It’s a small GMC one that i have an 18 tpi blade on.
The knife sitting on the leather cut out
I then wet the sheath down in warm water to wet mould it to the knife. I wrap the knife in cling wrap so it doesn’t attract to much water
The sheath moulded around the knife.
I then cut out the welt. It has a double layer at the top to accommodate the handle better.
I mark out the sheath with a red pen and then do some stamping on it.
I use a contact bond to glue my sheaths together. I glue the belt loop on
I then mark out where my holes will be
I use my pedestal drill to drill the holes. I use a 1mm drill bit.
I then stitch it in and put my stamp in the sheath
I glue the welt in and then i put a rivet in the top which helps to keep the leather together
A picture of the welt in the sheath
I use a marking tool that takes a groove out around the edge of the sheath for the stitching to sit in
I then use a wheel which puts little dints in the groove for the holes to go into
I then drill all the holes
And stitch the sheath and here a pic of the knife in it.
The sheath stained up and finished and with a coat of block out on it. Knife is sharpened up and cleaned.
Thanks for looking
Here is a bit of a WIP on a four inch drop point I have just finished. It will have a full flat grind and a tapered tang. And sambar stag on the handle
First I trace the stencil onto a flat bar stock piece of ATS-34.
I cut the blade roughly to shape on the bandsaw and then grind it down to its final profile with 60 grit.
I mark out the pin holes for the handles and centre punch them
Drilling the holes in the handle
Pin holes drilled in handle and holes to lighten the handle.
Then I grind the small piece of steel in front of the bolster that isn’t going to be ground in the flat grind. And finish to 400 grit
Here I am hollowing out the handle to do a tapered tang
I now make the tapered dang flat on each side. The reason for hollowing it out is to make it easier to do the flattening as there is less steel to remove.
Now I take a few hollows out of each side to do the flat grind. The hollows do the same in this step at they do when I do the tapered tang.
Here’s a picture of it finished to 400 grit on the grinder. I work through the grits 50, 240, 400grit.
Now I hand polish to get all the scratches running the one way along the blade, I do this to 400grit before heat treatment.
Here it is back from heat treatment with another one I had done at the same time.
I clamp the knife to a piece of timber that I have mounted in a bench vice
Start to sand with 400 grit. The piece of steel is surface ground on the other side so it is perfectly flat.
400grit finished
800 grit finished. I finish the 800 going in a different direction then the 400 so I can make sure all the 400 scratches are out.
1200 grit finished
2000 grit finished
I repeat that on the other side and then go to the cloth buffing wheel.
I use a sown wheel with a medium compound to start
Then go to an unsown wheel with a fine compound.
I then start on bolsters. I use 416 stainless.
Here I have marked it out for the cut.
In the proses of cutting them out
Cut out and one side sanded flat
I’ve got one clamped to the knife drilling the 3/32 holes for the pin. Do this to both bolsters
Here I have a 2.5mm drill bit and I go half way through the bolster. This creates a bit of a cavity for the pin to fill in when it is pened.
Grinding the front and back to right angles.
Sanding front to 400 on grinder then to 1200 by hand. Finish on the cloth buffing wheel
Forgot to take a couple of pics here but IV peened the bolsters on and shaped them to roughly what they will finish at.
I decided to use some samba antler for the handle.
I split it down the centre on the bandsaw.
Outline the knife handle on the inside of the antler.
Grind down to your handle line and you are left with a thick white bit on the inside.
I cut the white bit off and then sand it to make sure it is flat.
Now I cut out some red fibber for my liners and they are ready to glue onto the samba.
Now it is time to add the red spacer to the antler.
I glue and clamp the red spacer to the antler
I then flatten the face of the antler up again to bring the spacer flush with the antler
Then I glue the front spacers on.
And grind them back flush with the bottom of the first spacer. This makes a nice sharp corner so you don’t have any gap when it comes to the finish.
I then clamp one side of the handle tang and drill the ¼ inch lanyard hole and the four 3/32 inch holes for pins.
I also drill out a few holes going through the spacer to the antler so that when the handle is glues there is direct glue contact from the steel tang to the antler.
Both sides done ready to be glued
Pins cut and ready
All glued and in clamps
Now it is taken out of clamps ready for the handle to be shaped
Shaped on the grinder with 60 grit
Shaped on grinder to 400 grit
Some of the pins stick up a little so i use a dremel tool to take the pin down
I sand the bolster back to 2000 grit by hand
Sand the steel around the edges back to 2000
Here it is ready to be buffed
Buffed ready for sheath and etching
Now I do the etching
Here’s my gear that I use, it’s a personalize plus etching machine.
Here are the stencils i use they get taped to the blade with electrical tape
In the process of etching. There is a chemical that you put onto the etching pad. This eats the steel away that is through the stencil. And then it is switched to mark and the electrode current is switched around and this puts the black into the mark.
After etching has finished
Cleaned the blade off with the cleaner that takes the acid off.
The drop point and another little one i did at the same time
Now it’s up to doing the sheath.
I make a stencil out of paper to begin with.
Then i cut it out to the lines using a band saw. It’s a small GMC one that i have an 18 tpi blade on.
The knife sitting on the leather cut out
I then wet the sheath down in warm water to wet mould it to the knife. I wrap the knife in cling wrap so it doesn’t attract to much water
The sheath moulded around the knife.
I then cut out the welt. It has a double layer at the top to accommodate the handle better.
I mark out the sheath with a red pen and then do some stamping on it.
I use a contact bond to glue my sheaths together. I glue the belt loop on
I then mark out where my holes will be
I use my pedestal drill to drill the holes. I use a 1mm drill bit.
I then stitch it in and put my stamp in the sheath
I glue the welt in and then i put a rivet in the top which helps to keep the leather together
A picture of the welt in the sheath
I use a marking tool that takes a groove out around the edge of the sheath for the stitching to sit in
I then use a wheel which puts little dints in the groove for the holes to go into
I then drill all the holes
And stitch the sheath and here a pic of the knife in it.
The sheath stained up and finished and with a coat of block out on it. Knife is sharpened up and cleaned.
Thanks for looking
- Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Magnificent!! A thing of beauty.
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
- Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
- Posts: 11637
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Thanks for an excellent build-a-long TJ. You are a talented craftsman.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Ditto to Jeff's comment, I'm gobsmacked
Great pics.
Ronster
Great pics.
Ronster
I would love to be an expert, but experience and lack of knowledge holds me back!
Bows:-
Raven Vanquish 62" TD Recurve 44# @ 28"
Beaver 64" Longbow 41# @ 27"
Bear Montana 64" Longbow 50# @ 28"
Win & Win Winact ILF Riser and Win & Win Pro accent ILF carbon foam limbs 48# @ 28"
Bows:-
Raven Vanquish 62" TD Recurve 44# @ 28"
Beaver 64" Longbow 41# @ 27"
Bear Montana 64" Longbow 50# @ 28"
Win & Win Winact ILF Riser and Win & Win Pro accent ILF carbon foam limbs 48# @ 28"
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
WOW. Thanks for sharing, I would love to have a crack at making a knife but don't have the time or the gear. You certainly make it look easy mate. Are you selling that one. The price of custom knives is definitely justified when they are a work of art like that one.
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Fantastic!!
I am so glad you did a build along, I use the knife I got from you and it is a fantastic bit of workmanship!!
Keep up the excellent work TJ you have a great tallent.
Hazard
I am so glad you did a build along, I use the knife I got from you and it is a fantastic bit of workmanship!!
Keep up the excellent work TJ you have a great tallent.
Hazard
Politics is a game played by dishonest people to gain an unfair advantage!
Never under estimate the strength of a cornered coward.
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
http://www.bowmanstaxidermy.com.au
Never under estimate the strength of a cornered coward.
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
http://www.bowmanstaxidermy.com.au
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Thank YOU for taking the time to post this build along . You are talented and your creations are worth every cent and more of what you ask. As mentioned in one of my previous posts whenever I get some spare cash then one of your knives will be on my 'must have list.
nil illigitimo in desperandum carborundum
razorbows.com
razorbows.com
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- Posts: 141
- Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:10 am
- Location: Nerang
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Excellent build along, and great job on the knife and sheath.
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Tyler
I have one of your knives. It was extremely impressive to see how you made it. My hat is off to you sir.
Regards
Damian
I have one of your knives. It was extremely impressive to see how you made it. My hat is off to you sir.
Regards
Damian
"So long as the new moon returns in heaven a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the fascination of archery keep hold in the hearts of men" The Witchery of Archery, Maurice Thompson
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Dam just noticed this build along inspirational TJ THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO PUT IT ALL TOGETHER.
A great knife and sheath.
Cheers Wayno
A great knife and sheath.
Cheers Wayno
Justastik Arrow Craft, Its all about the Wood.
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Fantastic crafsmanship and thank you for taking the time to collect build photos and talk us through it. It's very interesting and greatly appreciated! Can't wait to have one of your knives in the collection!
Well done TJ
Well done TJ
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Fabulous. Wonderful work.
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Just amazing! You surely are one of Aus' premier knife makers, TJ. I haven't bought a knife in years but I must get at least one of yours, Mate.
Lately, if life were treating me any better, I'd be suspicious of it's motives!
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
I guess he had to learn to build them as he's still a few years off being able to legally buy one, and his Old Man is to
tight to buy him the type of gear he likes............me
They're looking good lad.
tight to buy him the type of gear he likes............me
They're looking good lad.
- Gringa Bows
- Posts: 6331
- Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:09 pm
- Location: Bundaberg QLD
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Very nice
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Awesome mate!!!! great stuff.........I hope my knives come out half as good as those! If i ever get round to finishing them...lol.
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
You must be hugely proud of your boys talent, matey. I know I would be!wal wrote:I guess he had to learn to build them as he's still a few years off being able to legally buy one, and his Old Man is to
tight to buy him the type of gear he likes............me
They're looking good lad.
Lately, if life were treating me any better, I'd be suspicious of it's motives!
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Genuinely impressive craftsmanship and finished product mate. That drop point is amongst the prettiest and more practical looking knives I've seen.
Jim
Jim
"Structural Integrity of the entire arrow system is THE most important factor in terminal arrow performance. When structural integrity fails nothing else about your arrow's design matters."
-Doc Ashby
-Doc Ashby
Re: 4 inch drop point WIP
Fantastic looking knife and sheath TJ, your work is truly inspirational . Not only does it look great but the end result is a really solid and functional tool that I reckon any hunter would cherish to have in their kit.
Thank you for taking the time to put together an excellent build along, easily the best I've seen yet .
Cheers........ Rod
Thank you for taking the time to put together an excellent build along, easily the best I've seen yet .
Cheers........ Rod