single bevel tusker

[Fanto]

had to sharpen a new tusker so I thought I'd have a go.

took 10 minutes, came up razor sharp . used a file then medium diamond hone then steel then leather

[perry]

I'm still using Davies Heads and have not seen Tusker Single Bevel Broadheads Sensible design and looks like they will do the Job. I will be in for a rude shock when I buy new ones, bet they've gone up a bit

regards Jacko

[Fanto]

perry tusker don't make it as a single bevel , it comes as a double bevel. I ground it to single myself

they cost $4 each at most

[Fraser]

I did the same with some tusker spirits for the young bloke, dosen't take very long to do it. I just need him to take some game to see how they work.

Fraser

[blu-dog]

A friend of mine requested a batch of single bevel heads from Tusker and they were more than happy to oblige. Just need to contact the new owners.

[Fanto]

thats good to know blu-dog

[Stickbow Hunter]

That looks like a good edge you have on that head alright.

Jeff

[longbow steve]

Yeah you have done a good job and probably made the point a bit tougher than they normally would be with a double bevel. I also find SB heads easier to sharpen. Steve

[Fanto]

Yeah you have done a good job and probably made the point a bit tougher than they normally would be with a double bevel. I also find SB heads easier to sharpen. Steve

thanks gents. It was a lot easier than I guessed it'd be and i find this type of edge easier to sharpen too.

I wonder how it will perform? when i find out ill report back.

[Jim]

Hey Fanto I did the same thing with a 190grain concorde



Perhaps I'm retarded, or was using too fine a file but it took me AGES. I sent that pic to Gary Pitt from Tusker Broadheads and he said he will have a go at knocking some up for me. He has been very generous with his time talking to me about it and told me he is happy to do different things like that as ordered. And they are still very reasonably priced (something like $5 a head).

Jim

[Fanto]

Jim maybe it was too fine a file

the tips seem a little flimsy, probably because the steel isnt overly hard (by design) so ground it to a less acute angle, they call it "tanto" tip I think dr. ashby coined the term

[rodlonq]

I don't have a lot of experience to call on but I reckon both SB & DB work fine, what matters more is hitting the spot, which by the way is something I have a lot of work to do on. Since I bought a set of paper wheels for finishing knives etc I have found double bevel broadheads to be a lot easier to sharpen on them. When I was sharpening manually they are about equal in my opinion.

I found the Davies broadheads easier to sharpen (maybe I was more patient back then) than the more recent Tuskers, some of which have been very hard indeed. I wasn't aware that Tusker had changed hands recently but it is good to see the business is still alive. Just recently I have bee using Ribteks and find them to be excellent value for money. I have a feeling they wont be available much longer (cant really say why) so I hope someone takes up this very clever design from the original maker. I have a variety of broadheads but they all have one thing in common, thay are all 2 blade cut-on-contact style broadheads.


Yes Fanto, I think Dr Ashbey named the short taper on the tip after the Japanese short sword/dagger, the "Tanto" from the days of the Samurai.

13BN cold steel tanto san mai master.jpg (10.62 KiB) Viewed 4333 times

Cheers....... Rod

[hazard]

A friend showed me a single bevel hand made knife some years back but it was a r/h bevel and I am a leftie. I was boning the leg of a Red Deer we got that very afternoon and the R/H bevel didn't exactly work in my avour. Never the less the idea caught me that a L/H bevel would probably work quite well.

As for a broad head I reckon it could potentially be very effective, for more than one reason. I am going to give it a go when the time comes.

Hazard

[Fanto]

dr.ashby's findings indicate that single bevels do more damage than double bevels, including cutting an L shaped exit wound.

[rodlonq]

That seems all fine Hazard but when you are boning out you need to work both sides of the bone in the field (or in the cool room for that matter). A thin boner with a very short secondary double sided bevel fit my needs (mongrel bred butcher boner = $25). I cant see an advantage to left or right handed bevel in a knife. I do agree that Dr Ed has found that a single bevel broad head that matches the fletching spin is an advantage, but I haven't experienced it. I can only speak from personal experience and to me tuskers, ribteks, outbacks (single bevels Fe's), dangerous game (Mick Bakers) and all do the same job if the arrow is pointed in the right direction (I've only harvested a dozen pigs). The only time I had any trouble (on pigs, not big game) is when I didn't shoot properly which is all my fault.

I will say that I have been to a Christening today for my newest nephew and although I will back anything I have said I am probably not in the state to say that I haven't said too much

Cheers to you all........ Rod

[Fanto]

i have a single bevel kitchen knife, its an 8" japanese multi-purpose chef knife. its hollow ground on the flat side so it cuts straight. if anyones interested ill take some photos and put it in an appropriate thread.

it is the singularly most terrifying object i have ever had the pleasure to handle. when you chop things, like onions, a double bevel knife with glide along the backs of your fingernails, place atop the onion and used as a guide.

the single bevel knife just continues on its path, through nail, bone, skin and onion.