Hi All...
I have tried 2018's* and the redzone 50/70* carbons...but found my 1916's [30lb rec'] to be a better match. Will this hurt the bow?
The 1916's are using 2 1/2 inch placcy' veins - they tend to wobble a fair bit on the way to the target, but they are more consistent and quiter than those others I've listed*.
Yesterday as I was testing the 1916's, my string broke - It may be a poor string but was wondering if the 1916's had something to do with it. I've only been using this bow for 1 week and the string / bow / replacement string are all new.
*3-4inch placcy veins.
Yes I will fletch the alloys / carbons with feathers.
Many thanks.
1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
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longbowinfected
- Posts: 2040
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:42 pm
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
The fact that you get wobbly flight tells you something is not right.
1916 is very light for 60 pound draw. I do not think that is a good match or a good idea.
If the energy stored in the bow cannot fully transfer to the arrow you may very well cause harm to the weakest point in your "system". Luckily it was perhaps the string and not a weakpoint in your bow. I would be surprised if the arrows go straight. You need to get back to basics. Go to a trad club and speak to some experienced guys. This is going to take the rest of your life.
I take it that you are using plastic vanes??? if so not a good idea if you intend shooting at various associations' competitions or at trad shoots with longbow. Befre you decide which vanes/flights you need to decide which shafts to use by bareshaft testing.
Of course a lot depends upon your pocket and what you are trying to achieve as well as how far down the longbow pathyou are situated.
Please do not be offended but you sound like a relative newcomer to longbow. If you are, why are you using a 60 pound longbow. In my opinion no matter how strong you are, work your way up
Before you decide on the best arrow for your bow, try a range of arrows with diferent alloys, wall thickness etc closer to the manufacturers recomendations. Use them without any fletches at all from close up and out to 30-40 metres and get someone who understands longbow to stand behind you so you can together decide how they feel and how well they fly.
Kevin
1916 is very light for 60 pound draw. I do not think that is a good match or a good idea.
If the energy stored in the bow cannot fully transfer to the arrow you may very well cause harm to the weakest point in your "system". Luckily it was perhaps the string and not a weakpoint in your bow. I would be surprised if the arrows go straight. You need to get back to basics. Go to a trad club and speak to some experienced guys. This is going to take the rest of your life.
I take it that you are using plastic vanes??? if so not a good idea if you intend shooting at various associations' competitions or at trad shoots with longbow. Befre you decide which vanes/flights you need to decide which shafts to use by bareshaft testing.
Of course a lot depends upon your pocket and what you are trying to achieve as well as how far down the longbow pathyou are situated.
Please do not be offended but you sound like a relative newcomer to longbow. If you are, why are you using a 60 pound longbow. In my opinion no matter how strong you are, work your way up
Before you decide on the best arrow for your bow, try a range of arrows with diferent alloys, wall thickness etc closer to the manufacturers recomendations. Use them without any fletches at all from close up and out to 30-40 metres and get someone who understands longbow to stand behind you so you can together decide how they feel and how well they fly.
Kevin
never complain....you did not have to wake up....every day is an extra bonus and costs nothing.
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
Hi Kevin...thanks for the advice. I am a new comer, and my ego thankfully is only the size of any issues I encounter :read: If I dont know, I ask.
Concerning the light 1916's and the weak point - that's exactly the thing I was thinking, but as stated, I didnt know so I asked
Yes I know about plastic fletching not being good for LB's, but for the moment, I was trying to suss' out what worked and what I have. I do have a set of carbons [50/70's] as well as a set of 2017's [18?] and today I am catching up with a fellow brother at the butts, who has some feathers for me to try. I'll try the bare shaft tuning and see if changing to heavier tips helps get the shafts around the bow a lot quiter.
60lb bow...I know it is near sacriledge to go straight from a 30lb rec' to a 60lb LB, but the truth is I can handle the draw weight...meaning I dont get the shakes and dont need to go into traction after shooting it. The only bit that got a little sore was my bow - forearm and strangely enough my left pec [right hander]. That lasted for 2 days, and now the only thing that hurts is the 3rd finger on my drawing hand. I tried the 2 finger draw, and it's cleaned that up as well as given me a much smoother release...GEEZ...I wonder if that had anything to do with the carbons and heavy alloys not being consistent in groupings??? I only tried it on the 1916's.
I do have a set of PO woods for the bow, and they fly sweet...but being a tight-@r$3, I want to have a set of cheaper shafts to practice with.
* I loosed the bow at the Rebels round on Sunday - got a 220 and a 79 - a long way to go I know, but not too bad for 6 days of working into the bow and using placcy' fletched carbons.
Many Thanks - mal.
Concerning the light 1916's and the weak point - that's exactly the thing I was thinking, but as stated, I didnt know so I asked
Yes I know about plastic fletching not being good for LB's, but for the moment, I was trying to suss' out what worked and what I have. I do have a set of carbons [50/70's] as well as a set of 2017's [18?] and today I am catching up with a fellow brother at the butts, who has some feathers for me to try. I'll try the bare shaft tuning and see if changing to heavier tips helps get the shafts around the bow a lot quiter.
60lb bow...I know it is near sacriledge to go straight from a 30lb rec' to a 60lb LB, but the truth is I can handle the draw weight...meaning I dont get the shakes and dont need to go into traction after shooting it. The only bit that got a little sore was my bow - forearm and strangely enough my left pec [right hander]. That lasted for 2 days, and now the only thing that hurts is the 3rd finger on my drawing hand. I tried the 2 finger draw, and it's cleaned that up as well as given me a much smoother release...GEEZ...I wonder if that had anything to do with the carbons and heavy alloys not being consistent in groupings??? I only tried it on the 1916's.
I do have a set of PO woods for the bow, and they fly sweet...but being a tight-@r$3, I want to have a set of cheaper shafts to practice with.
* I loosed the bow at the Rebels round on Sunday - got a 220 and a 79 - a long way to go I know, but not too bad for 6 days of working into the bow and using placcy' fletched carbons.
Many Thanks - mal.
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longbowinfected
- Posts: 2040
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:42 pm
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
It takes most folk a month or so to go up 10 pounds. The point is that you may be able to handle the draw but can you do that 150 times a day and only feel tired?
Under bowing produces bad form as your muscles like to work.
Overbowing by just a few pounds can cause lon term injuries that keep you out of the sport.
Whilst sorting yourself you will kill arrows so think with your pocket. When you get better it is more important that you have the best arrows rather than the best bow.
Mucking around with points and feathers only confuses the issues. Sort out one thing at a time. Feathers hide faults.
Having one sore finger tells me that your release or tab/glove is part of your problem.
You need to use a deep claw at the first joints. I use 30% top 40% middle and 30% lower finger pressure for a Mediterranean release with a separator....delivers a smooth release. The release though has to be delivered under maximum extension [bring your shoulder blades as close together as possible. The back of the hand has to be relaxed.
You best develop smooth subconscious draw and release starting as your base skill. I really have serious doubts whether this will come together for long term success beginning with a 60 pound bow. You need good form to shoot well. Except for some hunting applications for say buff/ scrubbies or camels I do not see the need to do this straight away.
IF you use underspined timber arrows they could have a latent defect and you could have one break in the bow and stab you. When you know what is the best timber set up, try to replicate the same mass and spine for your carbons and alloys....makes it a whole lot easier.
Kevin
Under bowing produces bad form as your muscles like to work.
Overbowing by just a few pounds can cause lon term injuries that keep you out of the sport.
Whilst sorting yourself you will kill arrows so think with your pocket. When you get better it is more important that you have the best arrows rather than the best bow.
Mucking around with points and feathers only confuses the issues. Sort out one thing at a time. Feathers hide faults.
Having one sore finger tells me that your release or tab/glove is part of your problem.
You need to use a deep claw at the first joints. I use 30% top 40% middle and 30% lower finger pressure for a Mediterranean release with a separator....delivers a smooth release. The release though has to be delivered under maximum extension [bring your shoulder blades as close together as possible. The back of the hand has to be relaxed.
You best develop smooth subconscious draw and release starting as your base skill. I really have serious doubts whether this will come together for long term success beginning with a 60 pound bow. You need good form to shoot well. Except for some hunting applications for say buff/ scrubbies or camels I do not see the need to do this straight away.
IF you use underspined timber arrows they could have a latent defect and you could have one break in the bow and stab you. When you know what is the best timber set up, try to replicate the same mass and spine for your carbons and alloys....makes it a whole lot easier.
Kevin
never complain....you did not have to wake up....every day is an extra bonus and costs nothing.
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
Ok Kevin - no worries.
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Trad Bound
- Posts: 828
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:29 pm
- Location: Melbourne,Australia
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
Come on Mal go for wood, save your pennies and go for broke.
Hey thats not a good word.
Cheers
Broken Arra
>>>----v----->
Hey thats not a good word.
Cheers
Broken Arra
>>>----v----->
Re: 1916 alloys - will this hurt a 60lb LB?
Trad buddy...just got myself a quart of minwax, some 0000 grade steel wool and ready to start on them woods
I'll still try to spine up some alloys / carbons etc...but for now - I just gotta loose dude
Kevin gave some good advice - and I'm waiting for MikeDY to get around to fletching some of his 'boo shafts so I can see if they are worth a try.
Can anyone give any advice on the sitka shafts from tradbits? Bear in mind that I understand that PO shafts are the best [and only a couple $$ more than sitka ex: tradbits]...but if I understand it correctly, unless you are buying direct from the states, quality and quantity are not always guarenteed. I may be wrong, which is why I ask
I may start a new thread on sitka shafts, if this Q dies a silent death [and if I cant find a thread with a search]
Thanks All - mal.
*The Hillside-Kid was meant to bring a bag of feathers for me when we met at the butts for a shoot...but failed. Brother G' - thats at least a 10 nip bourbon you owe me my friend! That Allan Driver home-made bourbon you have is looking pretty sad for you bro'...:sniggers hilariously:
I'll still try to spine up some alloys / carbons etc...but for now - I just gotta loose dude
Kevin gave some good advice - and I'm waiting for MikeDY to get around to fletching some of his 'boo shafts so I can see if they are worth a try.
Can anyone give any advice on the sitka shafts from tradbits? Bear in mind that I understand that PO shafts are the best [and only a couple $$ more than sitka ex: tradbits]...but if I understand it correctly, unless you are buying direct from the states, quality and quantity are not always guarenteed. I may be wrong, which is why I ask
I may start a new thread on sitka shafts, if this Q dies a silent death [and if I cant find a thread with a search]
Thanks All - mal.
*The Hillside-Kid was meant to bring a bag of feathers for me when we met at the butts for a shoot...but failed. Brother G' - thats at least a 10 nip bourbon you owe me my friend! That Allan Driver home-made bourbon you have is looking pretty sad for you bro'...:sniggers hilariously: