what tuning method do you use?

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clinton miller · #1 Post by **clinton miller** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:47 pm

i've just changed string material, lowered my shelf and i've got a new arrow setup so i'm going to be busy tuning.
i plan on using the planning method explained by O.L Adcock off tradgang.
this method involves shooting bareshafts and identical fletched shafts and noting the relationship of the two groups. changes are made to bring the two groups into one.

previously i used to get a bare shaft shooting well then fletch and shoot through paper.

how do you tune your setup?

#2 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:51 pm

I simply shoot my arrows from my bow and if they fly right and hit where they are supposed to then that is good enough for me.

Jeff

g_r · #3 Post by **g_r** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:54 pm

Jeff,
thats so easy, that cant be right....

I did paper tuning. As i dont fletch my arrows myself till now, i could not do any bare shafting. also i think its a bit complicated and time intensive.

#4 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:59 pm

g_r

Jeff

clinton miller · #5 Post by **clinton miller** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:22 pm

jeff- can you elaborate?

what if they don't "fly right"?

Benny Nganabbarru · #6 Post by **Benny Nganabbarru** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:14 pm

When I started bowhunting, I just used the aluminium selection chart from Easton, and that worked good-enough regardless of point weight out of my little recurve. When I got into carbons, I also learned about bare-shaft tuning, and got the hang of that for my CX shafts, but never for my Grizzlystiks - which I ended-up simply fletching-up and shooting. Now that I'm into woods, I use an old-fashioned spine-selection formula. I already have a certain length of arrow that I'm most comfortable with, so I don't want to mess with that. This spine-selection formula works a treat, and any minor adjustments can be made with point weight or strike plate thickness. I'm about to play with a front-loading jig to weigh-up some woods to, hopefully, buffalo-heavy. Basically, the idea is to drill a hole in the nose, and glue a nail in there, of whatever length you fancy. And, I might just be able to dynamically-stiffen an arrow by adding a little weight at the back, using the same tool. Anyway, fieldpoints and broadheads should group the same. And it isn't a case of being thrown way-off by small differences in each arrow (and they do have small differences). Arrows, with a little sensibility, work pretty well despite us, most of the time.

#7 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:40 pm

Clinton,

I always cut my arrows the same length everytime and use the spine I think will work and I just haven't had any arrow flight problems. I always shoot arrows that should be over spined for my setup as well. I have never bare shaft or paper tuned in my life. I know that may not sound like it would work considering everything you read on the subject now days but that is just how it has been with me.

I only use wood arrows so I don't know anything about shooting syntharrows.

Jeff

Lindsay · #8 Post by **Lindsay** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 5:47 pm

Bare shaft for me.

Nephew · #9 Post by **Nephew** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:22 pm

Blimey, I've buggered around for two years trying to work tuning out, then I find out someone with Jeffs experience doesn't worry about such things!

Why wasn't I told earlier?

Stephen Georgiou · #10 Post by **Stephen Georgiou** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:22 pm

Hey there morton,
Jeff is absolutely right. The old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it." is exactly what jeff is talking about here. Many years ago, Jeff must have come across the combination that works for him and has never changed it. Life becomes very simple. If we have the willpower to leave things alone.
Big problem that!

piggy · #11 Post by **piggy** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:55 am

[quote="Stephen Georgiou". If we have the willpower to leave things alone.
Big problem that!

[/quote

Mate that's a BIG problem to overcome

Nephew · #12 Post by **Nephew** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:05 am

Hey Stephen, mate that seems to be a lesson we have to relearn over and over!

longbowinfected · #13 Post by **longbowinfected** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:55 am

why would you change things when it works ok?
It took only a year to work out what woods and alloy arrows work best for me and I keep making the same arrows, it is that simple.
If you use the same bow al the time it gets even simpler.
If you make timber and alloy arrows of the same mass and spine you do not even have to adjust your aim.

Kevin

stringnstik · #14 Post by **stringnstik** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:03 pm

try n miss!!
...the target just naturally seems to get in the way then:)

I have a tried a few things none of which has made my shooting any better or worse.

Ozbow

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