100# Hunting recurve, what would it be like?

[hazard]

Hi Hazard, the main reason I shoot a heavy bow is that I'm about twice the size of the so called average person. It fells like I'm cheeting my self when I shoot a 60lb bow. I know that 30/40 years down the track I will have to drop back to a lighter bow. No one will tell the prop forwards at the local rugby club to stop lifting heavy weights, but when it comes to archery, the moment you consider shooting over 70lb people condem you for it. We don't all have the same physical capabilities.

I don't want to start an argument or offend any body, but Fanto has made the chioce to to shoot a heavy bow, and if it dosen't work out you can all tell him I told you so at a later date.

Fanto one thing I forgot to mention is that you will need to get much thicker shooting glove/tab, I found out the hard way.

Cheers,

Fraser

That's excellent Fraser, I am all for encouraging people who enjoy the heavier poundage....but for the frailer framed people I always advise patience as I have learned it took me time to build up and would hate to fire someone up on a crazy tangent

My frame didn't really accommodate heavier poundage until I hit 35-40. Now for some strange reason it really fits and I find it completes my appreciation of the sport. Eion Mcarthy freely admits he struggled with a 70# bow when he first started, but now at 150# he probably won't stop there.

As for Gloves I make my own from some scrap leather I was given as it was a better thickness to suit my dainty little hands. This also gives me the licence to tailor it specifically to my own hand rather than the generic sizes available on the market.

Rob Niccol (Flatline)made my bow and he did an exceptional job with 66# and 80# limbs. I cant speak highly enough for Robs ability in making a heavy recurve.
I still havent ruled out getting him to make a set of 90-95#.

If you have seen a 100# recurve for sale and you have the aptitude I reckon you should go for it.

Hazard

[Fanto]

Hazard

good idea. not sure about the aptitude, we will see how much time i spend looking for arras 100m past the butt!

ha!

[hazard]

Hazard

good idea. not sure about the aptitude, we will see how much time i spend looking for arras 100m past the butt!

ha!

3-10 arrows every 2-3 days, then 7-10 every 2-3 days. If your form starts to lag stop. before you know it you will be shooting 40-50, then move up.

If you are shooting a bow 70# and then 80# then 100# building slowly but surely, there is no reason why peabody cant shoot in excess of 100#. I am proof of that.

The most reliable target is 4 lounge pillows tied together like a present, all my mates have them as targets and they last for ages if you chew a corner out at a time and alternate the pillows.

Keep the distance short to start 16 metres or so. then you wont spend time looking for arras. Aptitude will follow.

Hazard

[Fraser]

Hi Hazard, the main reason I shoot a heavy bow is that I'm about twice the size of the so called average person. It fells like I'm cheeting my self when I shoot a 60lb bow. I know that 30/40 years down the track I will have to drop back to a lighter bow. No one will tell the prop forwards at the local rugby club to stop lifting heavy weights, but when it comes to archery, the moment you consider shooting over 70lb people condem you for it. We don't all have the same physical capabilities.

I don't want to start an argument or offend any body, but Fanto has made the chioce to to shoot a heavy bow, and if it dosen't work out you can all tell him I told you so at a later date.

Fanto one thing I forgot to mention is that you will need to get much thicker shooting glove/tab, I found out the hard way.

Cheers,

Fraser

That's excellent Fraser, I am all for encouraging people who enjoy the heavier poundage....but for the frailer framed people I always advise patience as I have learned it took me time to build up and would hate to fire someone up on a crazy tangent

My frame didn't really accommodate heavier poundage until I hit 35-40. Now for some strange reason it really fits and I find it completes my appreciation of the sport. Eion Mcarthy freely admits he struggled with a 70# bow when he first started, but now at 150# he probably won't stop there.

As for Gloves I make my own from some scrap leather I was given as it was a better thickness to suit my dainty little hands. This also gives me the licence to tailor it specifically to my own hand rather than the generic sizes available on the market.

Rob Niccol (Flatline)made my bow and he did an exceptional job with 66# and 80# limbs. I cant speak highly enough for Robs ability in making a heavy recurve.
I still havent ruled out getting him to make a set of 90-95#.

If you have seen a 100# recurve for sale and you have the aptitude I reckon you should go for it.

Hazard

Hi Hazard, I first started archery as a teenager and by the time I was 18 I was using an 80# compound, but at 21 I joined the Army and that was the end of archery, my life revolved around Rugby, beer and deployments. Fast foward 15 years and I've been out of the Army a couple of years and back into archery. When I got my first longbow I thought I'd do the right thing and start at 60#. Discovered that I love the longbow but that the poundage was frustraighting me. Orded a new bow of the same make but in 95#.

I came up with all sorts of ideas about how to work up to draw wieght, but when the bow arrived I strung it, walked out the back and started shooting, and to my suprise I was able to shot it straight away. The other suprise was that the heavey bow started to sort out my form, the bad habits I'd picked up with light bow couldn't be maintained with heavy bow.

Fanto, the first time you fly a long target is an experience, you walk to where you think the arrow should be, and then you keep going, and going, and going


Fraser

[Fanto]

fraser

just feels good to shoot the heavy bows doesn't it. don't make no sense, it just does.

Hazard

i will follow your regimen and report back. Im bidding on that bow with newfound determination!

BTW i reckon my draw is more like 27 so it'll be more like 90-95# at my draw id say. on the other hand Martin are known for underrating bows...

LIke you Fraser, evolution has not spared on bone mass not shoulder width on yours truly. I'm gunning for the ton these days and I'm not exactly concerned about bumping my skull on door frames if you know what I'm saying.

Here is an interesting, and unrelated, anecdote about building up to heavy weights. My grandfather was a violin playing textiles merchant in north/east italy circa 1937. Between '39 and 41-2 he fought, then wound up in a POW camp . Escaped very late in the war, then walked home from germany, over the alps, in winter. Following his recovery, from the brink, his textiles business was taken by the communist regime. He wound up stevedoring with his father. He didn't mind the job except that the Africans sent coffee in 100kg sacks which they would load off ships, 12 hours a day. by the end of it, before migrating, he was built like (hate the comparison but anyway) Mr. Stallone, except about an inch taller and about twice as hard a unit.

He never mentioned building up from 60 kg , 70kg etc sacks!

[hazard]

fraser

just feels good to shoot the heavy bows doesn't it. don't make no sense, it just does.

Hazard

i will follow your regimen and report back. Im bidding on that bow with newfound determination!

BTW i reckon my draw is more like 27 so it'll be more like 90-95# at my draw id say. on the other hand Martin are known for underrating bows...

LIke you Fraser, evolution has not spared on bone mass not shoulder width on yours truly. I'm gunning for the ton these days and I'm not exactly concerned about bumping my skull on door frames if you know what I'm saying.

Here is an interesting, and unrelated, anecdote about building up to heavy weights. My grandfather was a violin playing textiles merchant in north/east italy circa 1937. Between '39 and 41-2 he fought, then wound up in a POW camp . Escaped very late in the war, then walked home from germany, over the alps, in winter. Following his recovery, from the brink, his textiles business was taken by the communist regime. He wound up stevedoring with his father. He didn't mind the job except that the Africans sent coffee in 100kg sacks which they would load off ships, 12 hours a day. by the end of it, before migrating, he was built like (hate the comparison but anyway) Mr. Stallone, except about an inch taller and about twice as hard a unit.

He never mentioned building up from 60 kg , 70kg etc sacks!

I once worked on a mushroom farm stacking heavy wet bags of compost, the first day nearly killed me after a week it was a walk in the park but these days I drive around in a car all day now so I have learned what lack of physical activity robs from you. If you have a strong active job I reckon 3-5 arrows would become 40-50 over night.

If your grandfather was anything like mine I reckon your Grandfather was very modest survivor and silent achiever hardened by a time of great conflict, the frequency of this strength of character is thin on the ground these days.

I look forward to your input and Bidding.

Hazard

[Fraser]

Fanto, shooting a heavy just feels right, probably the best way I can put it.

On your Grandfathers experinces, its amazing what you can achieve when you don't have a choice. My Grandfather served for the entire war, but never spoke about it, my own experiences tell me that he must have been danger for good part of the time, he was an artilery forward observer. They where a generation that didn't make a fuss.

I just wish the arrow shaft manufactures would produce longer shafts, it'd be nice to have the choice to use a comercially produced product.

Cheers,

Fraser

[Fanto]

Fraser and Hazard,

You are both correct my grandfather was a quiet, peaceful man who spent every waking moment of his life working to look after his family.

Anyway,

Fraser, Easton make alloys out to 34.5 inches. You could internally foot with carbon up front to stiffen the spine as much as needed.. perhaps you already went down this road and, like me, dont wat to buggerise around glueing arrows up each others clacker.

[Fraser]

Fanto, I didn't now Easton made arrows that long, what sizes? I don't realy won't to glue carbons in them, but it might be an option later down the track.

Fraser

[Fanto]

http://www.eastonarchery.com/arrows/all ... hunter/0/2

Im not sure but i think that all the 2513 alloys start life at 34.5 and 2317s at 34

the other way to skin the cat is to get 32" carbons and find an alloy footing that fits over the top snug. cut say 5" alloy footings, and 3" bits of carbon alloy, glue the main carbon arrow and the 3" extension all into the footing at the same time. I have actually done this to make use of broken 3555s which i turned into stump busters with 5" of crossbow bolt. i added a short bit of carbon arrow so I could use the inserts that fitted the carbon. when its all epoxied together i dont think it matters a cracker that there is a join in the carbon inside the footing

cheers

[Fraser]

I've got some old 2317's I might have a bit of a play and see what works.

[Fanto]

fraser

i learned today that 2317 means:

o.d. = 23/64ths and wall thickness is .017"

therefore a 2317 has inside diameter of .34"

there aint many carbons that big. a GT3555 trad takes a 2117 for example

[Fraser]

Fanto, just looked at the easton catalog, it seems that thier largest diameter hunting carbon is 5/16. I put a 5/16 field tip inside a 2317 alloy and thier seemed to be about 1mm play, (checked the maths 0.7mm) I don't know whether that is to much of a gap for the glue to take up. Have you ever tried that sort of thing before?

[Fanto]

yeah thats going to be way too much gap. it needs to be quite tight so that its straight , especially if you are using a short alloy footing. if you're just glueing a carbon internal footing it might be OK.

there aren't too many arrows that will be tight in a 2317 , its like .36"

[Fraser]

Looks like I'll be sticking to wood. I need at least 33" to reach the front of the bow. The easton catalog I have doesn't list the length of the alloy arrows. I don't know what other sizes would be long enough or have a suitable diameter. May be I sould just use some of the 6mm steel rod I found at work the other day!

[GrahameA]

Hi All.

Looks like I'll be sticking to wood. I need at least 33" to reach the front of the bow. The easton catalog I have doesn't list the length of the alloy arrows. I don't know what other sizes would be long enough or have a suitable diameter. May be I sould just use some of the 6mm steel rod I found at work the other day!

Wander out to the workshop, start up the Lathe, macine up whatever you need. If no Lathe then beg/buy whatever or visit you local engineering shop. As for arrow shafts - buy a few lengths of appropriate material.

[Fraser]

Hi Grahame, I work at the local TAFE, one of the Fitting teachers is going to give a quick run down on how to use the lathe. Over the school holidays I'm going to have a crack at some arrows with UFOC, 1/2" tip and Tas oak tappering from 1/2" to 3/8" over the entire length, may be a bit to stiff for 95#, but that shouldn't mater to much. I want the hole think to come in arround 1000gr. And a side issue, to see what size feathers I can get away with.

Fraser.

[Fanto]

Fraser,

i just won my 100# bow, if there is a trade you have in mind id love to get some of those shafts! I could perhaps fletch and finish them, perhaps install a buff. horn self nock too , for yours and mine, in trade.

[hazard]

Hey Fraser

To get the ball rolling you could always get some Wallace woods, they even have a heavier option in shaft which I use and I have quite a few sets from them.

Steve can cater to any length and any spine you require, to my understanding. Still use the lathe because it very satisfying making your own kit but you will at least have a set ready reasonably quickly.


Hazard

[Fraser]

Fanto, congratulations on winning the bow. I get a run down on the lathe tommorow, so I should have my first batch of field points tommorow as well. I currently have 5 shafts that I'm going tapper and test. The shafts are extremly stiff, the weakest is 150#, and my spine jig is conservitive. I was intending to do a range of spines to see what works best. I'm happy to do a trade, I'll do the points and shafts, If you want to do the fletching and nocks. The only problems is that I'm about to go down to Brisbane for a Maintain and design domestic treatment plant course (septic tank) for two weeks. So I won't have time to complete them until I get back.

Hazard thanks for the info, but I already make my own shafts. According to my wife it's an addiction! If I get stuck I'll contact Steve.

Fraser.

[Fanto]

Fraser

No worries

I need to find out how to get this bow shipped!

Ive got a water buff horn brought back by a mate from an arnhemland community he visited. ill start cutting it up and flattening out pieces for nock reinforcing

cheers

[Stickbow Hunter]

I currently have 5 shafts that I'm going tapper and test. The shafts are extremly stiff, the weakest is 150#, and my spine jig is conservitive.

Fraser, What diameter are those and what wood did you use? Also what part of the state do you live again?

Jeff

[Fraser]

Fanto, let me now what overall length you need, how many, and if you wan't a mixture of spines for testing. I currently use 6" fletching on my 3/8" parrallel shafts, hopefully with UFOC we can get that back to 5".

Jeff, I live in Mackay. The shafts I talking about here are 1/2" Tas oak. I also use Silver Quondong some times as well, which is liter and easier to work, but not as durable. Most of the 1/2" Tas oak shafts bearly register on the spine jig (less then 0.1"), my 3/8" Tas oak shafts come in at 120# but my jig is quite conservitive.

Cheers,

Fraser.

[Stickbow Hunter]

Thanks for the info Fraser. Those are big shafts but you have a long draw and high draw weight. It would be good if you could post some photos of them. Have you tried any other woods? I guess it is hard to get woods that will be stiff enough.

Perhaps you could put Mackay in your profile as it is always good to be able to see where members are from.

Jeff

[Fraser]

Jeff, I havn't worked out how to update my profile yet. I would like to try other timbers but I have had problems getting them up here. I havn't been able to even get decent origan up here. I have thought of using spotted gum, would be pretty heavy, but that is not a great problem. Do you know of any other suitable timbers?

Fraser.

[Stickbow Hunter]

Oregon is my favourite but it is difficult to get pieces that will spine heavy enough. Vic Ash would be worth a try also if you could get good air dried stuff.

With your profile just go to the 'User Control Panel' (top right on forum) and then click on the 'Profile' button on the left.

Jeff

[Buranurra]

Conrats on the new bow Fanto! Hope to see pics and further details when it arrives.

[Fraser]

Hi Jeff, I believe that Vic ash is marketed as Tas Oak, one of three species sold under that name. Well according to the Dept of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Forestry any way.

I've now updated my profile to thanks.

Fraser.

[Fanto]

Conrats on the new bow Fanto! Hope to see pics and further details when it arrives.

cheers. I also discovered MYUS.com is brilliant, its a shipping company. they give you a street address in florida, and then send things on to Aus. their shipping rates are outstanding. Normally a bow is close to $200. they get 58" package here for $60!

cant wait, now to make missiles strong enough to stand this beast, and the other small matter of learning to draw it!

[Stickbow Hunter]

Hi Jeff, I believe that Vic ash is marketed as Tas Oak, one of three species sold under that name. Well according to the Dept of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Forestry any way.

Quite possibly. I still have a number of Vic Ash shafts here from when FORRO was getting them made. A word of warning; be very careful with kiln dried Vic Ash as it can look perfect but give it a bit of a flex and you can sometimes hear a little noise which is the grain separating. I believe the grain structure gets damaged if it isn't dried properly. Kiln drying can be a problem with a lot of woods.

Thanks for updating your profile.

Jeff