Back quivers and broadheads.
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Back quivers and broadheads.
After much vacilating between a side and back quiver, I bought myself a back quiver (Vista Honcho) that has a hard bottom which makes it safe for broadhead use.
Having never used a back quiver, one question cropped up in my mind whilst practising with it - isn't there a danger of a sharp broadhead cutting the fletching? At present I hold the arrow by the nock whilst withdrawing it from the quiver and I can hear the shaft scrape against the others and hence the question.
Yet to try with broadheads (Magnus Stingers) but I thought I would ask all the same.
Thanks.
Dodger
Having never used a back quiver, one question cropped up in my mind whilst practising with it - isn't there a danger of a sharp broadhead cutting the fletching? At present I hold the arrow by the nock whilst withdrawing it from the quiver and I can hear the shaft scrape against the others and hence the question.
Yet to try with broadheads (Magnus Stingers) but I thought I would ask all the same.
Thanks.
Dodger
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
I've never had a problem mate; it just doesn't seem to happen.Dodger wrote:isn't there a danger of a sharp broadhead cutting the fletching?
Jeff
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Good to know that, Jeff.
Incidentally, I finally managed to get my Bear Montana released from postal customs and it was worth the ordeal. Also the jump from 40 to 50 # draw weight wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be and I am thoroughly enjoying shooting a longbow, though at a much reduced range of 10 yards.
I keep wondering that if a budget production bow like the Montana can put a grin on one's mug what would those custom bows be like. Someday...
Take care and thanks.
Dodger
Incidentally, I finally managed to get my Bear Montana released from postal customs and it was worth the ordeal. Also the jump from 40 to 50 # draw weight wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be and I am thoroughly enjoying shooting a longbow, though at a much reduced range of 10 yards.
I keep wondering that if a budget production bow like the Montana can put a grin on one's mug what would those custom bows be like. Someday...
Take care and thanks.
Dodger
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Good news mate and great to hear you are enjoying shooting your bow!
Jeff
Jeff
- Chase N. Nocks
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Good question but I have never heard of it mentioned as a problem either.
Be good to know what you think of the Montana, even though I have seen mixed reviews, often about build quality, the predominate consensus is that this is a very fine bow and good value for money.
I have considered it a few times actually.
Be good to know what you think of the Montana, even though I have seen mixed reviews, often about build quality, the predominate consensus is that this is a very fine bow and good value for money.
I have considered it a few times actually.
I am an Archer. I am not a traditional archer, bowhunter, compound shooter or target archer.....I am an Archer
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Hi Chase.
I like the Montana but should add that my experience with modern bows is close to zilch. I did read complaints about an uncomfortable (blocky and large) grip, grip and arrow rest coming off, hand shock and the gap in the glass on the back of the bow hidden by the grip material. The last bit is true but it hasn't proved to be detrimental to the bow's performance. Should I be concerned about this?
The Hill style grip was new to me but I got used to it very quickly. For now, I have added a Shur grip on top of the existing suede grip. I do not get any handshock using a firm grip and with the brace height set at 7 3/4" and arrows weighing 514 grains. The arrow rest and plate were replaced with a Bear hair rest and plate at the very start so I cannot say if I would have faced the same problem.
I haven't been able to clock the arrows over the chrono as it is on loan to a friend but will certainly go through this exercise when I get a couple of strings from SBD Bow Strings in the coming year.
My draw length being just short of 28", I have experienced no stacking but considering I got accustomed to the 10 lb higher poundage in a dozen or shots indicates that this is a smooth pulling bow.
Coming from a recurve, the lack of weight was amazing and I sold off my bow quiver so as to retain this bow's handling and lines.
Herewith a few pics for anyone who may be interested.
I like the Montana but should add that my experience with modern bows is close to zilch. I did read complaints about an uncomfortable (blocky and large) grip, grip and arrow rest coming off, hand shock and the gap in the glass on the back of the bow hidden by the grip material. The last bit is true but it hasn't proved to be detrimental to the bow's performance. Should I be concerned about this?
The Hill style grip was new to me but I got used to it very quickly. For now, I have added a Shur grip on top of the existing suede grip. I do not get any handshock using a firm grip and with the brace height set at 7 3/4" and arrows weighing 514 grains. The arrow rest and plate were replaced with a Bear hair rest and plate at the very start so I cannot say if I would have faced the same problem.
I haven't been able to clock the arrows over the chrono as it is on loan to a friend but will certainly go through this exercise when I get a couple of strings from SBD Bow Strings in the coming year.
My draw length being just short of 28", I have experienced no stacking but considering I got accustomed to the 10 lb higher poundage in a dozen or shots indicates that this is a smooth pulling bow.
Coming from a recurve, the lack of weight was amazing and I sold off my bow quiver so as to retain this bow's handling and lines.
Herewith a few pics for anyone who may be interested.
- Chase N. Nocks
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- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:33 am
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Interesting. So your bow also has the gap in the glass under the handle? I have heard of this reported before but no one has made reference to it becoming an issue.
My main concern with it would be moisture getting in if there is a lifted gap in the lamination then one of the bowmaking boys on this site would probably recommend a better solution than I.
I must say that they are pretty bows in my opinion and for all the reports of issues there are thousands more of them out there that apparently are not causing any problems for their owners. On the contrary, this appears to be a well loved bow by most who have one so I think you have made a sensible choice in bow.
I still have one in my sights. I think they are a bargain unless you are buying locally (in Oz)
Cheers
Troy
My main concern with it would be moisture getting in if there is a lifted gap in the lamination then one of the bowmaking boys on this site would probably recommend a better solution than I.
I must say that they are pretty bows in my opinion and for all the reports of issues there are thousands more of them out there that apparently are not causing any problems for their owners. On the contrary, this appears to be a well loved bow by most who have one so I think you have made a sensible choice in bow.
I still have one in my sights. I think they are a bargain unless you are buying locally (in Oz)
Cheers
Troy
I am an Archer. I am not a traditional archer, bowhunter, compound shooter or target archer.....I am an Archer
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Yes it does and should a bowyer read this thread I would very much like to have a solution to rectify this defect. I was thinking of filling the gap with Araldite or JB Weld or one of those putty type of fillers-cum-epoxies but only after the warranty period expires.So your bow also has the gap in the glass under the handle?
...one of the bowmaking boys on this site would probably recommend a better solution than I.
You could have a look in the classified sections of some U.S. forums. I have seen them go for less than half their retail value on Archery Talk and I dare say that would be the case on TradGang, etc. as well. If you would like a new one, then Bowhunter's Superstore has the lowest price ($320.00) and they ship overseas as well.
If you do get one, I'd really like to know what you think of this bow compared to your more expensive bows as somewhere down the line I would like to buy another longbow with a 60 or 65# draw weight and the Montana is a contender at this point of time.
Cheers.
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Having the gap in the glass on the back of the bow is just plain poor craftsmanship. It really won't hurt anything though so long as it is sealed so NO moisture can enter there. Araldite would be fine to fill in the gap.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Thanks, Jeff.
May just ignore the warranty period and get it done with as I am taking the kids fishing over the weekend and wont be using the bow. 48 hours of curing time should be sufficient I hope.
I wonder if mixing charcoal dust with the Araldite (to get a black finish) would affect the epoxy's performance.
Hang on... it just occured to me that I could use black glass bedding compound as used in rifle stocks to get the job done.
Cheers.
May just ignore the warranty period and get it done with as I am taking the kids fishing over the weekend and wont be using the bow. 48 hours of curing time should be sufficient I hope.
I wonder if mixing charcoal dust with the Araldite (to get a black finish) would affect the epoxy's performance.
Hang on... it just occured to me that I could use black glass bedding compound as used in rifle stocks to get the job done.
Cheers.
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Decided to fill in the gap today and when I opened the grip wrap, I find that Santa's elves had already done the needful...
I was pretty sure there was a gap in the glass but I guess I'm really loosing it the older I get.
I was pretty sure there was a gap in the glass but I guess I'm really loosing it the older I get.
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Dodger wrote:I was pretty sure there was a gap in the glass but I guess I'm really loosing it the older I get.
Jeff
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Dodg I use to own a montana it was one of my first longbows and was a great bow. I must of put hundreds of shots through it a day for years and never had a problem with it.
It shot better after I put a decent string on it and not the factory one.
A great intro bow thats for shore.
Cheers Wayno
It shot better after I put a decent string on it and not the factory one.
A great intro bow thats for shore.
Cheers Wayno
Justastik Arrow Craft, Its all about the Wood.
Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
Ah, Jeff, I see you already have that t-shirt. In red plaid ofcourse...
Wayno, now that you have used better bows, where does the Montana fall short? What I would really like is a 2-piece flatbow and would ideally like a Cari-bow Wolverine or Peregrine T/D, a Montana Whip T/D or a BamaBow Hunter/Elite T/D.
Wayno, now that you have used better bows, where does the Montana fall short? What I would really like is a 2-piece flatbow and would ideally like a Cari-bow Wolverine or Peregrine T/D, a Montana Whip T/D or a BamaBow Hunter/Elite T/D.
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Re: Back quivers and broadheads.
You could say that.Dodger wrote:Ah, Jeff, I see you already have that t-shirt. In red plaid ofcourse...
Jeff