As suggested I am now officially BEGGING for timber to make self bows out of
So any kind soul out there with any decent bow wood they could bear to sell me please let me know. Would prefer staves but will consider anything
Thanks Graeme
PS I would grovel if I knew how to do that with text
Wanted Bow timber
Moderator: Moderators
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Glenn Newell
Graeme, I think I saw that you were using spotted gum or you wanted to, Spotted gum isin't much good unless it comes from west of the Great Divide. Grey Ironbark and Red Ironbark would be better, they are stronger than spotty anyway. I picked up several flitches of grey ironbark from sleeper cutters a few years ago and I have made several real good selfbows from these flitches. I make the bows half sapwood and half heartwood and they take very little set and in fact the last one has no string follow at all. Sometimes the timber that sawmills burn is the best bow timber and they will normally give it to you or ask very little for it...Glenn...
Last edited by Glenn Newell on Sun May 14, 2006 6:52 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Glenn Newell
Graeme, you could try red ironbark, I haven't used it yet but a mate of mine has and he has made some very nice selfbows out of it. I have always wondered how the CCA treated hardwood would go after it is dried properly, at least you can get it easy and wouldn't cost a lot to try it. Only trouble you wouldn't know what species it would be, a lot of it is spotted gum, up this way...Glenn...
Graeme,
I'm on the lookout for suitable timber as well.
If you hear of anywhere up this way (Newcastle) give me a bell and i will check it out. Save you the drive. I've checked out a few of the timber suppliers in the area (haven't lived here that long) but haven't found anything worthwhile yet.
Good luck with the search.
Tony
I'm on the lookout for suitable timber as well.
If you hear of anywhere up this way (Newcastle) give me a bell and i will check it out. Save you the drive. I've checked out a few of the timber suppliers in the area (haven't lived here that long) but haven't found anything worthwhile yet.
Good luck with the search.
Tony
Thanks Toni
I don't know of anywhere specific around Newcastle but there quite a few small old fashioned timber mills around the rural edges of the area. These would be worth a try as Grey Ironbark (prefered timber) grows in your area. And as mentioned in my other thread by Yoeman the bits they cut off logs to square them up are a good source of material --- you can tell if they are straight as you can see the uncut surface. If you are interested in giving it a try the way to find the mills is to go to the yellow pages web site where you can search for business of a particular type in your area, it will also give a list with distances from where you live and provide a road map.
If you have any luck let me know .
Cheers Graeme
I don't know of anywhere specific around Newcastle but there quite a few small old fashioned timber mills around the rural edges of the area. These would be worth a try as Grey Ironbark (prefered timber) grows in your area. And as mentioned in my other thread by Yoeman the bits they cut off logs to square them up are a good source of material --- you can tell if they are straight as you can see the uncut surface. If you are interested in giving it a try the way to find the mills is to go to the yellow pages web site where you can search for business of a particular type in your area, it will also give a list with distances from where you live and provide a road map.
If you have any luck let me know .
Cheers Graeme
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Glenn Newell
Don't be afraid to experiment with other timbers, I have made self bows out of flooded gum, yellow stringy bark, terpentine, blackbutt and list goes on. I have used timbers that people boo hooed but you will never know until you try them for yourself, correct limb design and tiller will get the most out of a piece of timber. I know there has been a lot said in praise of the rectangular flat bow design, but fair dinkum it's a waste of time, it produces a lot of string follow and poor peformance, too bad there has been a lot written in the positive about this design but there are much better options avaliable as far as design and tiller go for the selfbowyer...Glenn...
I did find this place www.woodcentre.com.au who list English Yew and Osage Orange in their stocks of rare exotics. They also carry lots of other exotics that would be good for laminated risers.
I think i need to dig out my Ozbow list of good bowyers woods and go check it out. Only about half an hours drive from home
They don't list Grey Ironbark as stocked but i will check out some of the mills in the area.
I think i need to dig out my Ozbow list of good bowyers woods and go check it out. Only about half an hours drive from home
They don't list Grey Ironbark as stocked but i will check out some of the mills in the area.
Thanks Toni
They do have a good range of timber. Talked to the guy today and unfortunately none of the interesting things are long enough but he has US ash that Graeme A suggests as something he has had success with. Probably worth looking at Native Cherry and Yellow wood in the Aus Species ( let me know if any of it is straight grained ) and the American red oak and rock maple from the imported. None of the exotic stuff seems to be long or straight but some of the imports would be nice for handles.
The guy who runs the place Peter suggested that you call before you go as he is not always there
Graeme
They do have a good range of timber. Talked to the guy today and unfortunately none of the interesting things are long enough but he has US ash that Graeme A suggests as something he has had success with. Probably worth looking at Native Cherry and Yellow wood in the Aus Species ( let me know if any of it is straight grained ) and the American red oak and rock maple from the imported. None of the exotic stuff seems to be long or straight but some of the imports would be nice for handles.
The guy who runs the place Peter suggested that you call before you go as he is not always there
Graeme
sorry I am paying attention here but having a converse with the wife too...god i just sigened something...no matter...line of credit yes my love...kiss her belly......
UhHUM....I can get you red iron bark no worries..i think I have said this before...but no matter...other species are available...wattles etc...we don't live soooo far apart...pick up is the way to get past the 1 metre ish max that the posties use..aint hard....or come up on the jalopie and see what we can cut for you...open invite...most of what's here is dross for the mills...as it aint long enough for a floor board apparently...can't rememeber what our floor is but it's something good...any way...I have staves...well, trees, of red ironbark growing in the backyard...bring yer own chain saw mate...
UhHUM....I can get you red iron bark no worries..i think I have said this before...but no matter...other species are available...wattles etc...we don't live soooo far apart...pick up is the way to get past the 1 metre ish max that the posties use..aint hard....or come up on the jalopie and see what we can cut for you...open invite
...most of what's here is dross for the mills...as it aint long enough for a floor board apparently...can't rememeber what our floor is but it's something good...any way...I have staves...well, trees, of red ironbark growing in the backyard...bring yer own chain saw mate...I'd love to have a battle of wits with you.....but you appear to be un-armed.....
Hi Hellier
Thanks for the invite --- sounds attractive since it is getting cold down here now. But I think I would have to find a spare couple of weeks to make the trip worthwhile. Still you live in an area that would have interesting timber and I have a serious yearning for something called Safron Heart that grows up your way so I will keep it in mind - Jeff also suggests Red Ash (Alphitonia excelsa ) which you probably have.
If you come across something interesting it does not cost me all that much to ship it by TNT road I think I can get 10kg a couple of meters long here for about $20
Cheers Graeme
Thanks for the invite --- sounds attractive since it is getting cold down here now. But I think I would have to find a spare couple of weeks to make the trip worthwhile. Still you live in an area that would have interesting timber and I have a serious yearning for something called Safron Heart that grows up your way so I will keep it in mind - Jeff also suggests Red Ash (Alphitonia excelsa ) which you probably have.
If you come across something interesting it does not cost me all that much to ship it by TNT road I think I can get 10kg a couple of meters long here for about $20
Cheers Graeme
re timber
Hello graham
was reading your post as i wish to start down this path and make my own bow, I am at miles (west of the range) and have plenty of narrow leaf ironbark and probably a few other types of suitable timbers,
You mention red and grey ironbark but can you tell me if narrow leaf is one of the above or if it is suitable.
happy to send some to ya if you want some
Is there any advantage in starting with green timber from a shaping point of view
Cheers
was reading your post as i wish to start down this path and make my own bow, I am at miles (west of the range) and have plenty of narrow leaf ironbark and probably a few other types of suitable timbers,
You mention red and grey ironbark but can you tell me if narrow leaf is one of the above or if it is suitable.
happy to send some to ya if you want some
Is there any advantage in starting with green timber from a shaping point of view
Cheers
Helton
If you come across some Brigalow it is excellent. It is even better if you cut like Yew using the Sapwood for the back of the bow.
Do not use it for your first bow - rather save it for something special.
If you come across some Brigalow it is excellent. It is even better if you cut like Yew using the Sapwood for the back of the bow.
Do not use it for your first bow - rather save it for something special.
Grahame.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
brigalow
Hi Grahame
no shortage of it out here, how many ton would you like.
Why do you say not for the first attempt??
cheers
no shortage of it out here, how many ton would you like.
Why do you say not for the first attempt??
cheers
Hi Helton
Thanks for your reply-- I thought the thread was dead.
The narrow leaf Ironbark you speak of is probably E. crebra. It is not a bad timber and is easier to dry without splits than Grey Ironbark E. paniculata but does not have quit as good typical strength figures.
E. Panicularta: Mor-181, Moe-24, Comp-95
E. crebra: Mor-118, Moe-16, Comp-70
Having said this the difference in strength etc is often greater within a species than between these two different species. So a good piece of crebra would be fine.
Probably the best way to handle the raw timber is to start with a tree at least 200 dia or larger cut into 2m plus lengths. I then split it into four usually by sawing as it is difficult to get it to split straight with wedges. If the bark is soundly attached I leave it on but if not I remove it . I then seal it on all the exposed surfaces with white wood glue to slow down the drying process which reduces differential shrinkage and therefore cracking. I sometimes clamp or tie the drying timber to something to keep it straight or induce some reflex depending on the intended usage.
Roughing out bows when green often works, you just have to try it with each particular timber and work out how best to seal it and dry it and how much excess to leave to work with.
Your probably correct thinking that there will be other trees in your area that would be good bow wood, I will look through my books see what I can find but definitely Brigalow ( Acacia harpophylla ) although it is difficult to dry without splitting.
If you PM me your phone number I will give you a call and talk to you about it.
Graeme
Thanks for your reply-- I thought the thread was dead.
The narrow leaf Ironbark you speak of is probably E. crebra. It is not a bad timber and is easier to dry without splits than Grey Ironbark E. paniculata but does not have quit as good typical strength figures.
E. Panicularta: Mor-181, Moe-24, Comp-95
E. crebra: Mor-118, Moe-16, Comp-70
Having said this the difference in strength etc is often greater within a species than between these two different species. So a good piece of crebra would be fine.
Probably the best way to handle the raw timber is to start with a tree at least 200 dia or larger cut into 2m plus lengths. I then split it into four usually by sawing as it is difficult to get it to split straight with wedges. If the bark is soundly attached I leave it on but if not I remove it . I then seal it on all the exposed surfaces with white wood glue to slow down the drying process which reduces differential shrinkage and therefore cracking. I sometimes clamp or tie the drying timber to something to keep it straight or induce some reflex depending on the intended usage.
Roughing out bows when green often works, you just have to try it with each particular timber and work out how best to seal it and dry it and how much excess to leave to work with.
Your probably correct thinking that there will be other trees in your area that would be good bow wood, I will look through my books see what I can find but definitely Brigalow ( Acacia harpophylla ) although it is difficult to dry without splitting.
If you PM me your phone number I will give you a call and talk to you about it.
Graeme