It is often said on Ozbow how much we all appreciate and enjoy viewing photos posted up by our members; I know I sure do. I think it fair to say most of us aren’t excellent photographers but we simply like to take photos that capture what we see when we are out and about. However I’m sure most of us would also like to take better photos.
Seige (Luke) is a reasonably new member of Ozbow. He is a self employed Professional Photographer - a rather successful one I might add. He has kindly offered to assist members with advice about their photography. After discussing this with him we felt the best way to do this was to have a simple Q & A thread.
The idea of this thread is if you have a particular area that you struggle with when taking photos, explain what your issues are and ask Luke for advise to help overcome them. If you have a sample photo that shows the particular problem you are having attach that in your post as it will help Luke to better answer you question.
Also you may have a photo you have taken and would just like advice on how it could perhaps have been improved. In this case simply post up the photo and ask how it could be improved.
Don’t be afraid to post up your photos and ask questions as you will not be put down, just the opposite in fact. The whole idea is to encourage and assist you with improving your photography.
Jeff
Photography Q & A’s
Moderator: Moderators
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Stickbow Hunter
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Gringa Bows
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Good idea Jeff,but i'm pretty right i got Nutgrass 
Re: Photography Q & A’s
As Jeff has said I am happy to help and answer any questions anyone has. I have pretty much done everything there is to do with photography from sports to landscape, houses to weddings. Last year working for myself and no longer anyone else I pulled in over 100k so I know that my product is good and what the market is after. I am not saying this to be arrogant or show off or anything like that, I am simply saying this to let you all know that I can and have sold images in the current marketplace.
If you guys want to know about buying a camera, settings on a camera or even simple things like what can be done to take your photos to the next level. I am around most days atm as I am putting together photos for a planned show in the new year so if there is anything I am happy to help.
I have taught photography and have found people learn more when they post up their pictures. I always tell people what I feel could make the image better, and also will say what I liked, or what I feel worked in the photo.
Photography is an art so it is open to different opinions, this is what I will be offering to you all, my opinion. I started using film and have found that have used film are often better photographers. Digital has made people lazy, but you can produce images that film can not.
Anyway it is up to you, I am happy to give my personal experience to hopefully take your photography to the next level.
I can also provde lessons and things if people are interested in an overall view. I will keep this info to very basic as I could write about photography forever.
In the coming days I will post up some of my images from what they were to what they are now. I can even provide you guys with little challenges if you would like be tested. Photography schools can cost anywhere from $1500-2500 per term, and I am willing to offer this information for free. It is my way of giving back to the helpful information you guys have provided me over the past little while.
Cheers luke
If you guys want to know about buying a camera, settings on a camera or even simple things like what can be done to take your photos to the next level. I am around most days atm as I am putting together photos for a planned show in the new year so if there is anything I am happy to help.
I have taught photography and have found people learn more when they post up their pictures. I always tell people what I feel could make the image better, and also will say what I liked, or what I feel worked in the photo.
Photography is an art so it is open to different opinions, this is what I will be offering to you all, my opinion. I started using film and have found that have used film are often better photographers. Digital has made people lazy, but you can produce images that film can not.
Anyway it is up to you, I am happy to give my personal experience to hopefully take your photography to the next level.
I can also provde lessons and things if people are interested in an overall view. I will keep this info to very basic as I could write about photography forever.
In the coming days I will post up some of my images from what they were to what they are now. I can even provide you guys with little challenges if you would like be tested. Photography schools can cost anywhere from $1500-2500 per term, and I am willing to offer this information for free. It is my way of giving back to the helpful information you guys have provided me over the past little while.
Cheers luke
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TomMcDonald
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Good onya.
I'll be back shortly
I'll be back shortly
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Well I guess I will be brave and start this off. 
Luke, When out hunting we really don't have an option for waiting for the best lighting etc. We take photos of things as they happen and bright sunlight and harsh back lighting with their subsequent dark shadows is often a big problem. Here is an example of a photo ruined by dark shadows covering the subjects ugly mugs - that may have been a good thing in this instance though.
What is the best way to take these types of photos?
I guess fill flash would help but how does one get on when using a digital SLR with a pop up flash as the shutter speed syncs to 60th - 250th of a second which is often to slow in such bright conditions?
Thanks
Jeff
Luke, When out hunting we really don't have an option for waiting for the best lighting etc. We take photos of things as they happen and bright sunlight and harsh back lighting with their subsequent dark shadows is often a big problem. Here is an example of a photo ruined by dark shadows covering the subjects ugly mugs - that may have been a good thing in this instance though.
- Craig-&-Rod.jpg (295.39 KiB) Viewed 7552 times
I guess fill flash would help but how does one get on when using a digital SLR with a pop up flash as the shutter speed syncs to 60th - 250th of a second which is often to slow in such bright conditions?
Thanks
Jeff
Re: Photography Q & A’s
There is actually a few options for this type of photograph.
Firstly where ever possible photography the subject in full shade, so that the subject is more even and doesn't get the harsh tones of sunlight mixed with shade.
Secondly - you can use flash to fill in the darker shade areas. The flash will make the light more even across the subject.
Third - this is probably the most important of all. The sun should always be behind the camera. If in the case of your photo above, the sun would be pointed at the subject and it would make the light even across the whole subject. You can turn slightly so that the sun remains behind the camera and the subject is not going blind from staring into the sun, but this will make the light more even.
If you tried with the above photo to lighten the above areas where the shade is, the other side of the face would blow out, making the photo look crap on the sunny parts.
When I have a flash I actually try to keep the subject in full shade with the sun behind the subject and not the camera, I then use the flash to fill in all areas of the subject. I used this method with photos outside with kids in kindergartens or childcare. The sun isn't directly behind but a little off centre, this means you won't get sun flare from the sun being right on the lens. This method though is only good with flash.
Lastly and this is a practice everyone should do, always make the photo at least one stop darker than you think. If we used that above photo as an example, you would of been able to lighten the shade areas more if the photo had of been darker. If something is really bright you can't do much with it, if something is darker you can do loads of things to it.
Lets say the above photo was of a bride and groom and you took the photo at their wedding. You would want to keep this photo and not lose it otherwise it is one less photo you can provide on the job. So how do you make that photo more useable? what I would do is load that photo in something like photoshop or lightroom, completely ignore everything in the photo except for the shaded area, I would lighten the shaded area on the photo until I was happy with it. Then I would open this photo in photoshop and then put the original image over the top of this edited version. Then using the eraser I would remove all the shaded areas on the original photo bringing the edited version through. This then provides the best of both worlds. This is the big advantage over film, with film you had to scan the image in and then do the above process.
Remember when printing a photo you always use one stop, meaning the photo will print darker than what you see on the computer screen. So a dark image might need to be brighten which looks bad, but when it prints you get what you saw on the computer screen.
Firstly where ever possible photography the subject in full shade, so that the subject is more even and doesn't get the harsh tones of sunlight mixed with shade.
Secondly - you can use flash to fill in the darker shade areas. The flash will make the light more even across the subject.
Third - this is probably the most important of all. The sun should always be behind the camera. If in the case of your photo above, the sun would be pointed at the subject and it would make the light even across the whole subject. You can turn slightly so that the sun remains behind the camera and the subject is not going blind from staring into the sun, but this will make the light more even.
If you tried with the above photo to lighten the above areas where the shade is, the other side of the face would blow out, making the photo look crap on the sunny parts.
When I have a flash I actually try to keep the subject in full shade with the sun behind the subject and not the camera, I then use the flash to fill in all areas of the subject. I used this method with photos outside with kids in kindergartens or childcare. The sun isn't directly behind but a little off centre, this means you won't get sun flare from the sun being right on the lens. This method though is only good with flash.
Lastly and this is a practice everyone should do, always make the photo at least one stop darker than you think. If we used that above photo as an example, you would of been able to lighten the shade areas more if the photo had of been darker. If something is really bright you can't do much with it, if something is darker you can do loads of things to it.
Lets say the above photo was of a bride and groom and you took the photo at their wedding. You would want to keep this photo and not lose it otherwise it is one less photo you can provide on the job. So how do you make that photo more useable? what I would do is load that photo in something like photoshop or lightroom, completely ignore everything in the photo except for the shaded area, I would lighten the shaded area on the photo until I was happy with it. Then I would open this photo in photoshop and then put the original image over the top of this edited version. Then using the eraser I would remove all the shaded areas on the original photo bringing the edited version through. This then provides the best of both worlds. This is the big advantage over film, with film you had to scan the image in and then do the above process.
Remember when printing a photo you always use one stop, meaning the photo will print darker than what you see on the computer screen. So a dark image might need to be brighten which looks bad, but when it prints you get what you saw on the computer screen.
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Thanks Luke. I understand what you are saying but often there is no shade or very little which is mottled with bright sunlight. The hats cause shadowing also. I guess I should just carry my flash with me but it is rather bulky to carry around all day.
Jeff
Jeff
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Gringa Bows
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Ugly Mugs thats not nice.........may be true but not nice to tell people that,especially when your no glammer yourself 
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
The Aussie bush is always really harsh to photograph in, if it was me taking the above photo I probably wouldn't carry a flash either. I would probably worry about faces and in doing so I would place the sun at 3 o'clock to the subject. This way the faces are more even in terms of light. I would also shoot it darker so you can fix it later.
You can also take photos in the early morning or late afternoon, for me I was always able too as I was photographing wild animals which appear at these times of day.
Walking arou d the bush all day you want to carry as little as possible. So go with making sure the sun is behind the subject, but not making contact with the lens. If you don't have a lens hood a hat makes a great one in the middle of no where.
Never let the sun hit the lens unless you are after that effect in most cases it is almost impossible to fix without hours on photoshop. Even then you can often tell.
You can also take photos in the early morning or late afternoon, for me I was always able too as I was photographing wild animals which appear at these times of day.
Walking arou d the bush all day you want to carry as little as possible. So go with making sure the sun is behind the subject, but not making contact with the lens. If you don't have a lens hood a hat makes a great one in the middle of no where.
Never let the sun hit the lens unless you are after that effect in most cases it is almost impossible to fix without hours on photoshop. Even then you can often tell.
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Thanks mate. I too like the morning and afternoon light.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: Photography Q & A’s
I am a keen amateur mate. I have spurts from time to time where I get right into it, other times it is just to capture the memory & share it with my mates that couldn't make it (as Jeff said)
Feel free to post up any comments you have about my photos from time to time.
I seam to get sucked in by Sunrise, sunsets which usually incorporate & feature the landscape in which I am in.
Example this sunset I caught with my 40d on a recent trip hunting around Moree in NSW. It was hand held, I looked back to see if we could get one last look of a mob of pigs we had spotted & seen this.
I had to wind the 40d up to 1600 iso to get a steady shot & still was a struggle with me using the bow as a 3rd leg to try & steady myself.
Any advise.
Also something I have just started to dive into is the odd sepia image. Just to give a sense of era maybe. Maybe I am just trying to say something about the period in which the subject belonged ???? I don't really know, it just seams right
When I am running the 40d in the field, I usually run in P mode, as it usually is something happening fast & by the time I get my camera out of my pack, time is limited. When I am out & about with 5d in hand, is usually all M mode (unless I am at a party or with kids)
I usually start with the depth of field I think I am after, then start to alter it to suit (Lazy Dslr style)
Feel free to post up any comments you have about my photos from time to time.
I seam to get sucked in by Sunrise, sunsets which usually incorporate & feature the landscape in which I am in.
Example this sunset I caught with my 40d on a recent trip hunting around Moree in NSW. It was hand held, I looked back to see if we could get one last look of a mob of pigs we had spotted & seen this.
I had to wind the 40d up to 1600 iso to get a steady shot & still was a struggle with me using the bow as a 3rd leg to try & steady myself.
Any advise.
Also something I have just started to dive into is the odd sepia image. Just to give a sense of era maybe. Maybe I am just trying to say something about the period in which the subject belonged ???? I don't really know, it just seams right
When I am running the 40d in the field, I usually run in P mode, as it usually is something happening fast & by the time I get my camera out of my pack, time is limited. When I am out & about with 5d in hand, is usually all M mode (unless I am at a party or with kids)
I usually start with the depth of field I think I am after, then start to alter it to suit (Lazy Dslr style) Shooters get to 50m to shoot, but only a hunter gets inside 20m to hunt.RABBITS (karen) wrote:NUTGRASS >>----> Nobody knows where he came from, & nobody knows how to get rid of him.
Re: Photography Q & A’s
Sunset and sun rise pictures just work in everyway possible. Add water to these and it adds another dimension and the images are always popular. You don't see an old farm covered in 45 degree sunlight in the middle of the day, that is because it is hard to do this type of pictue justice in those sort of conditions.
With your picture above, do you know about blue light? Tomoorw night, or whenever go outside just before sunset. It is visable on overcast days and days with no cloud, it is easier to see on days with no clouds.
Anyway if you squint your eyes and look at a rooftop you will see a blue tinge to the roof, the ideal time to take the photo is when this light disappears. In winter you have about 5mins to take the shot, in summer it is about 15mins. The real property photographers will use this trick, and it makes a huge difference to the overall appearance of the image.
The reason is that the sky is not blue but we see it as being blue. This website might help explain while saving me hours of typing http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/light/u12l2f.cfm
I have waited outside on a melbourne winters night for 45mins just to get this image at the exact right time. When I look at the picture of yours with the sunset, it's a great picture, would it sell at a market? yes it probably would, the difference is taking an image that is nice, to an image that is WOW! Once you see this you will understand the difference between the two. I get people to take a photo of their house at sunset without telling them the above, then the following week the above is discussed and you see the results etc
IMO i love sepia and black and white. I would rather shoot in black and white any day of the week, but people like colour! I also shoot true black and white and only use film.
From your comment about being lazy, what you need to learn is something called M.A.R or meter as read. This is in every camera tht is currently on the market, and is in older models as well but I have seen a few early digital cameras without it. The 40D will deffinatly have it.
So what is MAR? Basically your camera has a light meter in built, back in the days of film you had to use a handheld version and take the light reading at the subject, these days it is inbuilt. In the camera's eye mid grey is the ideal perfect colour. It is forever trying to go toward that, but this is where you need to learn do I take up a stop, down a stop or leave it. If on Auto, yes leave it, everything else, well that is the fun bit. If anyone wants to know about MAR I can write and paste up old lectures, it is quite involved but once you understand your images will take a leap forward that you will never look back with. IMO it is the most important tool a photographer has, and as I use it everyday I never take it off manual, meaning i chose the ISO, F Stop and Shutter speed.
If you guys want to learn it I will do a write up, but as it is involved it will take some writing and don't want to do it if you are all happy doing photos the way you do them now.
On a personal thought, I prefer your sepia image over the sunset. I love finding old shacks that have a story behind them, sunsets have been done to death, but they sell so you have to do them.
The other thing is, with your sunset look how much of the foreground is black. Before taking the image always think foreground, middle ground, back ground. If you had of come up a little cutting more of the black part of, but getting more clouds and early evening stars, it just adds more thatn a straight black ground can. JMO
With your picture above, do you know about blue light? Tomoorw night, or whenever go outside just before sunset. It is visable on overcast days and days with no cloud, it is easier to see on days with no clouds.
Anyway if you squint your eyes and look at a rooftop you will see a blue tinge to the roof, the ideal time to take the photo is when this light disappears. In winter you have about 5mins to take the shot, in summer it is about 15mins. The real property photographers will use this trick, and it makes a huge difference to the overall appearance of the image.
The reason is that the sky is not blue but we see it as being blue. This website might help explain while saving me hours of typing http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/light/u12l2f.cfm
I have waited outside on a melbourne winters night for 45mins just to get this image at the exact right time. When I look at the picture of yours with the sunset, it's a great picture, would it sell at a market? yes it probably would, the difference is taking an image that is nice, to an image that is WOW! Once you see this you will understand the difference between the two. I get people to take a photo of their house at sunset without telling them the above, then the following week the above is discussed and you see the results etc
IMO i love sepia and black and white. I would rather shoot in black and white any day of the week, but people like colour! I also shoot true black and white and only use film.
From your comment about being lazy, what you need to learn is something called M.A.R or meter as read. This is in every camera tht is currently on the market, and is in older models as well but I have seen a few early digital cameras without it. The 40D will deffinatly have it.
So what is MAR? Basically your camera has a light meter in built, back in the days of film you had to use a handheld version and take the light reading at the subject, these days it is inbuilt. In the camera's eye mid grey is the ideal perfect colour. It is forever trying to go toward that, but this is where you need to learn do I take up a stop, down a stop or leave it. If on Auto, yes leave it, everything else, well that is the fun bit. If anyone wants to know about MAR I can write and paste up old lectures, it is quite involved but once you understand your images will take a leap forward that you will never look back with. IMO it is the most important tool a photographer has, and as I use it everyday I never take it off manual, meaning i chose the ISO, F Stop and Shutter speed.
If you guys want to learn it I will do a write up, but as it is involved it will take some writing and don't want to do it if you are all happy doing photos the way you do them now.
On a personal thought, I prefer your sepia image over the sunset. I love finding old shacks that have a story behind them, sunsets have been done to death, but they sell so you have to do them.
The other thing is, with your sunset look how much of the foreground is black. Before taking the image always think foreground, middle ground, back ground. If you had of come up a little cutting more of the black part of, but getting more clouds and early evening stars, it just adds more thatn a straight black ground can. JMO
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
I am interested in this Luke. However, to save you a lot of work perhaps you could just copy a bit from one of your old lectures or perhaps give a link to a good article about it. Thanks.Siege wrote:So what is MAR? Basically your camera has a light meter in built, back in the days of film you had to use a handheld version and take the light reading at the subject, these days it is inbuilt. In the camera's eye mid grey is the ideal perfect colour. It is forever trying to go toward that, but this is where you need to learn do I take up a stop, down a stop or leave it. If on Auto, yes leave it, everything else, well that is the fun bit. If anyone wants to know about MAR I can write and paste up old lectures, it is quite involved but once you understand your images will take a leap forward that you will never look back with. IMO it is the most important tool a photographer has, and as I use it everyday I never take it off manual, meaning i chose the ISO, F Stop and Shutter speed.
If you guys want to learn it I will do a write up, but as it is involved it will take some writing and don't want to do it if you are all happy doing photos the way you do them now.
Jeff
Re: Photography Q & A’s
I will get it done in the next few days, just have to owrk out which one of my drives has the pdf files on it...
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Thanks mate, appreciated.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: Photography Q & A’s
HEY! I just found this! Ugly mugs indeed! And here I was thinking how much Rod and I looked like Brad Pitt and George Clooney arriving for a premiere! 
And here I was thinking how much Rod and I looked like Brad Pitt and George Clooney arriving for a premiere!
Last edited by Nephew on Tue May 29, 2012 3:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lately, if life were treating me any better, I'd be suspicious of it's motives!
Re: Photography Q & A’s
Nephew wrote:HEY! I just found this! Ugly mugs indeed!
crikey, where do you buy your mirrors Neph ? i gotta get one
Life is not a fairy tale,if you lose a shoe at midnight , you're drunk.
Re: Photography Q & A’s
Hey, a man can dream, can't he?kerry wrote:Nephew wrote:HEY! I just found this! Ugly mugs indeed!
crikey, where do you buy your mirrors Neph ? i gotta get one
Lately, if life were treating me any better, I'd be suspicious of it's motives!
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Classic Kerry, classic!!!kerry wrote:crikey, where do you buy your mirrors Neph ? i gotta get one
Dream on Nephew!
Jeff
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Gringa Bows
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
Dont listen to them Nephew,we know we're handsome....
Re: Photography Q & A’s
Well...I think it's fair to say our looks are more "striking", than "handsome"!
Lately, if life were treating me any better, I'd be suspicious of it's motives!
Re: Photography Q & A’s
Guys, I am being lazy, I have had an awful weak so far with illness, so rather than wair on me I typed into google 'what is meter as read in photography? There were a whole lot of results which I skimed through but this one seems to be the best to follow. When I find my works I can add that if need, or simply ask me questions to get your head around it.
http://www.photography.ca/photography-t ... -metering/
If you are really serious about improving your shots the auto function on your camera should no longer be used. Once you get your head around MAR but a big piece of tape across your camera and go take shots, this is so you can't cheat and adjust by viewing the back of the camera. In actual fact the back of the camera is not calibrated so it is a guide not how it will be viewed on a computer screen.
You don't even have to go anywhere to practice, photographing your coffee cup on the table is enough, with mistakes you learn, if you just keep altering settings until it looks right then you have learned nothing, you need to know why something didn't work and why another photo did.
Depending on your camera there are settings which you can set either the shutter speed or the f-stop. These are great when learning as you only need to do one half of the puzzle. When you get more confident then you can step it up to manual. With practice it does become quite easy. I always have my camera on manual and it does become really easy to know why something did or didn't work, all it takes is time and practice.
http://www.photography.ca/photography-t ... -metering/
If you are really serious about improving your shots the auto function on your camera should no longer be used. Once you get your head around MAR but a big piece of tape across your camera and go take shots, this is so you can't cheat and adjust by viewing the back of the camera. In actual fact the back of the camera is not calibrated so it is a guide not how it will be viewed on a computer screen.
You don't even have to go anywhere to practice, photographing your coffee cup on the table is enough, with mistakes you learn, if you just keep altering settings until it looks right then you have learned nothing, you need to know why something didn't work and why another photo did.
Depending on your camera there are settings which you can set either the shutter speed or the f-stop. These are great when learning as you only need to do one half of the puzzle. When you get more confident then you can step it up to manual. With practice it does become quite easy. I always have my camera on manual and it does become really easy to know why something did or didn't work, all it takes is time and practice.
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Stickbow Hunter
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Re: Photography Q & A’s
I hope you're feeling better soon mate. I will have to look more into this MAR as it is a little difficult to grasp but I will have to have a play when I get the camera out some time. I shoot in AV (aperture priority) 90% of the time and manual the other 10%. I guess I will have to play with manual more.
Jeff
Jeff
Re: Photography Q & A’s
How much do you know about f-stops and shutter speed?
for example if you take photos at 5.6 then the thing that the camera is focused on will be sharp, but the other area around it will begin to go 'soft' the further you get away from the focus spot.
Usually using flash photographers shoot a f9 for this reason, or around there.
f22 everything is sharp but it requires a lot of light to be able to shoot that high.
Does everyone understand how f stops work?
and for shutter, last year at the airshow I wanted to get the spitfire sharp with the propellar showing the only movement, for this it required a shutter speed of 400-500 so as I wanted that f-stop and I wanted to get it at either f8 or f9 then I had to bump the iso until it allowed me to get that image. I always shoot a little bit dark.
when the jets came out you want to freeze that image, so I needed a shutter spped of 2000 as the jet moves a lot faster.
those images that show water that looks milky white is done with a low shutter speed.
Does everyone understand shutter speed?
Then there is iso, depending on the camera and application will depend on waht iso you can use. my 5d mkii goes to 256000 but I have only gone has high as 6400. On a bright day an ISO is that high is ok, but if it was dark, like trying to shoot the moon I would get what is called 'noise', looks like lots of spots all over the darker areas. This is very common with phone cameras.
Unless you understand those three things you will never understand MAR properly, or how to apply it. Kinda jumped the gun a little bit by going straight to MAR/
Later I will post some pics that use different aspects as I find it helps to understand these things.
for example if you take photos at 5.6 then the thing that the camera is focused on will be sharp, but the other area around it will begin to go 'soft' the further you get away from the focus spot.
Usually using flash photographers shoot a f9 for this reason, or around there.
f22 everything is sharp but it requires a lot of light to be able to shoot that high.
Does everyone understand how f stops work?
and for shutter, last year at the airshow I wanted to get the spitfire sharp with the propellar showing the only movement, for this it required a shutter speed of 400-500 so as I wanted that f-stop and I wanted to get it at either f8 or f9 then I had to bump the iso until it allowed me to get that image. I always shoot a little bit dark.
when the jets came out you want to freeze that image, so I needed a shutter spped of 2000 as the jet moves a lot faster.
those images that show water that looks milky white is done with a low shutter speed.
Does everyone understand shutter speed?
Then there is iso, depending on the camera and application will depend on waht iso you can use. my 5d mkii goes to 256000 but I have only gone has high as 6400. On a bright day an ISO is that high is ok, but if it was dark, like trying to shoot the moon I would get what is called 'noise', looks like lots of spots all over the darker areas. This is very common with phone cameras.
Unless you understand those three things you will never understand MAR properly, or how to apply it. Kinda jumped the gun a little bit by going straight to MAR/
Later I will post some pics that use different aspects as I find it helps to understand these things.
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Stickbow Hunter
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- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
Re: Photography Q & A’s
I understand those no problems but I know there are others on the forum who do not.Siege wrote:How much do you know about f-stops and shutter speed?
I think that would be great and very useful. I wish others would offer there opinions and questions as well.Siege wrote:Later I will post some pics that use different aspects as I find it helps to understand these things.
Jeff