Its pretty much based on the "big jig". Nothing new under the sun here except maybe the knob that holds the nock and displays the position.
I had a volume knob in the bits box. Drilled out the centre to match the nock and filled the index slot so its a neat fit. I then drilled a whole at 90deg to it and shoved a piece of plastic. The nock "clicks" just nice into this. I printed out a series of 3 lines at 120deg. cut them out and laminated them so I now have a see thru disc with 3 lines on it. I glued this to the knob. I printed a similar disc with extra lines (so I can do fluflu extra feather fletching) and glued that to the upright on the jig.
basicaly you twirl the knob till the lines match up, glue and then twirl again. At first I used a hair tie to give it some friction and hold it in place while gluing. But I now simply squish a piece of vinyl tubing and push it into the arrow shaft slot until its tight.
The jig is really just two uprights glued into a rebated bottom. I slotted the uprights down to the shaft hole with a thin slot that matched the thickness of my feather vise plate. this vise is made of two plates. One is longer by 5mm each end and thus slides into the slots. The other just fits between the uprights. This keeps all the feather positioning and location accurate.
I cut the horizontal shaft slots to allow the arrow. You can see they are at opposites. This was so the hair band tension would pull both ends into the wood. Its not necessary, vinyl tubing pushed into these slots and up against the shaft is far quicker.
Fletches applied with modellers ZAP glue, cause thats what I had. Out of all the arrows shot over this w/e , busted and shoved thru carpet and such. Not one lost a fletch
Now keep in mind this was knocked up with a week to go b4 the lb100 and with what was in the shed in a lazy 2 hours. I made 20 or so arrows on this jig and just in time too
boy she can stand up for herself. Well done.
