Ozbow

I have a few billets of less than ideal quality Osage taking up space in my workshop so instead of dumping it I decided to cut a stave and back it with some pole bamboo.

For those who have not seen my previous effort using Osage from the same batch of billets see; http://www.ozbow.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=14756

The Osage billet was so bad I had to dock it and cut two limbs that could be spliced at the handle.
Once the limb billets were thinned and the sides brought in to parallel I noticed some awkward pin knots. In an effort to avoid these pin knots the limb plan had to be cut on the diagonal.

I prefer to glue the limbs together full width which makes it easier to mark a centre line and to lay out the plan of the bow.

Marking out the ‘Z’ splice, cut splice and glued splice. A string line was used to obtain the correct limb alignment.

Finished splice.
Fortunately the billet had a bend at one end which allowed me to have a little natural reflex towards the tips.
An overlay was applied to the belly side of the handle to give extra strength to the splice.

To add to my woes the bamboo had some longitudinal splits between the nodes and although not detrimental to the integrity of the backing they do detract from the overall finish of the bow.

The bamboo backing was prepared in the usual manner and glued to the stave.
Erratic grain pattern.
Tip overlays are Brigalow and red Phenolic.
On the initial weigh in the bow pulled 51.5# @ 27” and after tillering adjustments and exercising the draw weight settled at 45#.

Shot a few arrows this morning and I was pleasantly surprised at how the weight builds up through the draw, no hand shock. The Fast flite / low stretch Flemish twist string was supplied by Steve at Wallace Woods.

To date the belly is intact with no signs of chrysaling or other failures.

The limb on the right hand side of the photo may need some adjustment which will then probably mean an adjustment of the limb on the left hand side.
Daryl.

Looking good Daryl. I would hesitate against making any changes in tiller because you used the average of the billets natural reflex before backing with the boo. It is more of a self bow backed with boo, rather than one made from tapered belly lam's, so you get a little natural variation from one limb to the other.
Set is low, and pretty even. A good use for that thin ringed osage. Even crappy osage is osage, and it has been put a good use. Smooth craftsmanship. I like it.
Hamish

I concur, good save on some dubious wood,and a nice bow is the result!

Fantastic work again Daryl! Very interesting

Hamish wrote:I would hesitate against making any changes in tiller because you used the average of the billets natural reflex before backing with the boo. It is more of a self bow backed with boo, rather than one made from tapered belly lam's, so you get a little natural variation from one limb to the other.

Hamish, I won't make any adjustments unless the limb timing goes out of synchronisation.

bigbob wrote:good save on some dubious wood

Bob, I was lucky I did not dump the billets. On previous occasions I have thrown timber out and then find out some time later I could have made use of it.

Peregrine wrote:Very interesting

Tracey, 'Z' splices are quite easy, mark out and cut accurately and take your time.

Daryl.

Daryl this is brilliant!!

The things you do never cease to amaze me!

Beautiful looking piece, love the tip overlays!! What does it shoot like?

Colin

Hi Daryl,

Looks fantastic mate...!

I love bamboo backed osage bows...

Cheers Guy

Nice work as usual Daryl.

Jeff

Very nice Daryl.

Looks like it would be a very forgiving bow to shoot.

If if shoots that well I would leave the tiller alone, it is probably settling into where it needs to be.

Beautiful job Daryl

Colin, although I only had a few test shots in my workshop the bow felt comfortable in the hand. Hopefully I may get down to the club during the week to see how well the bow casts an arrow.

I will take the bamboo/hickory recurve tip bow as well and do some comparison testing.

Guy, I was never a fan of the colour of Osage but I am getting used to it.

For the limb thickness of the Osage and bamboo I was anticipating a draw weight in the vicinity of 55# to 60# when compared to the limb thickness of the hickory or rock maple bamboo backed bows that I have made.

Jeff and Rod, it makes for an enjoyable change to making the glass laminated bows.

Graydon, at this stage the bow feels good so I will leave it as is.

Daryl.

greybeard wrote:For the limb thickness of the Osage and bamboo I was anticipating a draw weight in the vicinity of 55# to 60# when compared to the limb thickness of the hickory or rock maple bamboo backed bows that I have made.

The Osage appears to be fairly close grained and in my experience this seems to make lighter draw weight bows for a given thickness.

Jeff

Morning All.

Having seen the bow up close and observed the problems with the timber (over a few months) the bow is an example of what can be done with a bit of forethought, skill and not rushing things.

The bow has some neat solutions to problems in its construction I would call them examples of lessons from previous events.

Once again Daryl has shown the lesson that you do not need to have chunks of money to make excellent bows, etc.

Another example of drinking at the Coffee mug of Knowledge

Thought for the Day.

A smart man learns from his mistakes, a smarter man learns from the mistakes of others and smart man learn his lessons well.

Stickbow Hunter wrote:The Osage appears to be fairly close grained and in my experience this seems to make lighter draw weight bows for a given thickness.Jeff

Jeff, the darker grain timber appears to have little substance to it.

I managed to weigh a piece of the Osage and it grossed to 780kg. per cu/m. Some wood charts suggest mid to high 800 kg. at 12% moisture.

Daryl.

greybeard wrote:Jeff, the darker grain timber appears to have little substance to it.

Yeah I have two Osage bows of the same draw weight and the one made from the darker close grained wood is way thicker than the one made from lighter and wider apart growth rings.

Jeff

hunterguy1991 wrote:........What does it shoot like?

Colin, I managed to get down to the club and put quite a few arrows through the bow.

I must say I am very happy with the bow and was surprised by its performance, I was expecting the bow to be a bit sluggish.

The best way I can describe the bow is that once you start shooting it you don't want to put it down.

What was noticeable was a poor release resulted in the arrow rattling around the handle.

Daryl.

greybeard wrote:

hunterguy1991 wrote:........What does it shoot like?

Colin, I managed to get down to the club and put quite a few arrows through the bow.

I must say I am very happy with the bow and was surprised by its performance, I was expecting the bow to be a bit sluggish.

The best way I can describe the bow is that once you start shooting it you don't want to put it down.

What was noticeable was a poor release resulted in the arrow rattling around the handle.

Daryl.

Hmmm Daryl, I know what you mean!!!!!!!! My spliced Osage bow is my Fave, I won't sell it. Just a pleasure to shoot. Bow is nearly a year old now and i shoot it all the time, still the same specs.
I have redone the riser as the solid riser "popped" off so now I laminate and peg my risers. End of that little problem!
I understand now why people love osage.

mikaluger wrote:Hmmm Daryl, I know what you mean!!!!!!!! My spliced Osage bow is my Fave, I won't sell it. Just a pleasure to shoot. Bow is nearly a year old now and i shoot it all the time, still the same specs.

I have another bamboo/Osage bow on the go at the moment, a bit like yours but with recurved tips.

Daryl.

Cant wait ot see it!!!!
I am going to do the same with the billets I just received. I want to do a spliced self bow and a spliced bamboo backed osage with the offcuts. nothing to waste here!!!