any ideas for bow woods in wa for selfbows

[just longbows]

hi guys i need ideas for some wood to make bows out of in wa

[perry]

I have made some good Selfbows from Jarrah, a bit on the heavy side mass wise but it takes good compression. I used a pyramid limb design. From memory there was handshock but I was using a Dacron String. A low stretch string material like Dyneema , TS1 and the like would help with less handshock by distributing more energy into the Arrow

Red Ash is also a WA Native http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alphitonia_excelsa , a superb Selfbow timber

regards Jacko

[Stickbow Hunter]

Have a look at this thread as I believe it mentions some WA woods - http://www.ozbow.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=3329

Jeff

[just longbows]

thanks for the info, perry was the jarrah you used a stave or board

Justin

[perry]

I used 19mm Jarrah Boards. I made several Jarrah Bows. Like I said, heavy mass wise but Tough.



The Jarrah Selfbow in this photo was a 60# Working Handle Pyramid Limb Bow. Struggling to remember how long it was, probably 66". Was my First Selfbow Kill. I eventually destroyed this Bow in one of my "I wonder what happens when ??" moments by shortening it and retillering to 70#, it Fretted through the Handle. It was backed with Kangarro Rawhide. It was not needed, I do stuff needed or not in order to learn !

regards Jacko

[just longbows]

ok that good stuff ill have to try making one although it will not be 60# more like 30-35# as im only 15

[perry]

As you are a new Bow Maker and are making a lightweight Bow I suggest you use a narrow design. Draw it up , say 68" or 70" long, you can shorten it up if needed to increase the draw weight, it will not be strained and be more forgiving of a new Bow Makers tillering. I would make it approx 1 1/8th" wide except for the last 18" inches of each Limb which I would taper to approx 3/8th" wide at the String Nocks. Pin Nocks will make for lighter limb tips and less hand shock. I would have the Arrow pass 1" above centre and start your limb taper 1 inch above where the arrow passes and 3" under. The Handle on such a Bow will work very slightly and in my opinion is easier for a beginner to Tiller. When correctly tillered and at full draw the Tiller should resemble the letter C, that is slightly flat through the handle and the bend increasing grcefully towards the tips.

I suspect Jarrah will have some Handshock but with such a low draw weight and a low stretch string it will not be unpleasant. There's lots of Tillering advice on this Forum, have a look around, good luck and be carefull - making Selfbows is adictive
regards Jarrah

[just longbows]

Thanks i will take that into acount when making the bow.ive tryed making a ELB out of tasmainian oak and it worked and shoot fine untill i tryed to straighten out the set and snaped it big mistake.

Justin

[perry]

I have seen threads on this Forum that were about Straighening set - good to see you found out the hard way it is not a good idea, String Follow can tell you something is wong, your Tillering is Crook - a Hinge or Stiff Spot, your chosen Timber is not suitable for the Design you have used etc. String Follow can also be your friend. It can make for a more forgiving and stable Bow, not so twitchy to shoot. Some of my best Selfbows have had 3" of String Follow, don't sweat on it and leave well enough alone unless it is indicating something is wrong..

regards Jacko

[just longbows]

Ok ill be sure to have a look.

[Gringa Bows]

Ay Perry, who's the handsome bloke with the goat