curing wood for shafting
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curing wood for shafting
anyone know how long should douglas fir be cured before making aero shafts?
when in doubt, run in circles and scream and shout ...
Not sure on the time frame but don't make them "bone" dry. I had a bunch of 1/2 X 1/2 inch stock that I was gearing up to run through a shaft shooter and they sat around in a very dry spot in my house for about a year and they were very brittle. A bunch of them sheared off half way through the shaft shooter. I also had a couple that broke mid shaft when striking my target (a Stanley Hips foamy). The ones that appeared to be a little higher on the moisture content made excellent shafts though.
RC
RC
That which doesn't kill me better run for cover...
- Stickbow Hunter
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Don,
I can't say how long the wood must be left if it is green except make sure it is reasonably dry. In my part of the country (climate wise) the wood maintains a level of moisture which is about right.
Tuffcity,
Don't know the source of your wood but from what you described, is it possible that it was kiln dried before you got it? Some of the pines down here are kiln dried and sometimes they dry it to much and destroy the wood fibres. It seems to dry the natural resin in the wood and then it is no good. In fact it is down right dangerous if used for arras. It results in what you say happened to yours when you were trying to make your shafts. I'd hate one of my arras to shear upon release.
By the way Douglas Fir is called Oregon here in Australia. I have used it a lot for making my own shafts and really like it. I have sourced my wood from fence posts, parts of old beds, old window frames, from wood used in a wharf and have bought some new stuff. I have found it hard to get timber that will spine much over 65 - 70 lbs though. Also it can be hard to get wood that has good physical weight. The old fence post I used probably made the overall best shafts as it made arras that were 70 -75lb spine and weighed near 700 grains.
The very best piece I got was from an old bed and the shafts spined 90 lb but I never made an arra from them but I think they would have been around 800+ grains.
Have you fellas got any photos of your Douglas Fir arras to share?
Thanks
Jeff
I can't say how long the wood must be left if it is green except make sure it is reasonably dry. In my part of the country (climate wise) the wood maintains a level of moisture which is about right.
Tuffcity,
Don't know the source of your wood but from what you described, is it possible that it was kiln dried before you got it? Some of the pines down here are kiln dried and sometimes they dry it to much and destroy the wood fibres. It seems to dry the natural resin in the wood and then it is no good. In fact it is down right dangerous if used for arras. It results in what you say happened to yours when you were trying to make your shafts. I'd hate one of my arras to shear upon release.
By the way Douglas Fir is called Oregon here in Australia. I have used it a lot for making my own shafts and really like it. I have sourced my wood from fence posts, parts of old beds, old window frames, from wood used in a wharf and have bought some new stuff. I have found it hard to get timber that will spine much over 65 - 70 lbs though. Also it can be hard to get wood that has good physical weight. The old fence post I used probably made the overall best shafts as it made arras that were 70 -75lb spine and weighed near 700 grains.
The very best piece I got was from an old bed and the shafts spined 90 lb but I never made an arra from them but I think they would have been around 800+ grains.
Have you fellas got any photos of your Douglas Fir arras to share?
Thanks
Jeff
Initially the wood should have been ok. It came from left overs from a log home operation and should have been only air dried at that point. Nice wood that spined from 75 to over 95#, and I should have rolled them earlier. I think it was leaving them to dry out in such small pieces for over a year that caused the problem.
I wasn't worried about it shearing off in my hand as the shaftshooter puts alot more torque on it than shooting does, also the shafts that snapped in the target hadn't had the bow tuned for them yet and they were going in a hair sideways. They didn't actually shear off in long slivers, just snapped in half
Here's an unfletched pic- they ended up as a footed unit with 3 para, black & white barred feathers.
RC
I wasn't worried about it shearing off in my hand as the shaftshooter puts alot more torque on it than shooting does, also the shafts that snapped in the target hadn't had the bow tuned for them yet and they were going in a hair sideways. They didn't actually shear off in long slivers, just snapped in half
Here's an unfletched pic- they ended up as a footed unit with 3 para, black & white barred feathers.
RC
That which doesn't kill me better run for cover...
- Stickbow Hunter
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- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
- Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
- Posts: 11637
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
- Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
- Posts: 11637
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
- Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
- Posts: 11637
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland