Why I don't use fletching tape anymore

[outbackarcher]

i used regular fletch tite for my wood shafts and there still strong.

lewis

[Mick Smith]

DylanK

There's nothing wrong with Fletchtite. It works well in most situations. Fletchtite doesn't stick well to arrows finished with polyurathane. Many archers like to use polyurathane on their arrows as it's very tough and durable, me included.

For me, the biggest drawback with using Fletchtite is that it takes at least 15 minutes for it to dry enough to hold a fletch in place, whereas Locktite superglue dries in seconds. So, in effect you can fletch a dozen arrows in an hour or so. When you use Locktite superglue on a fletch, it's there for the life of the arrow.

I still do use Fletchtite though. It's perfect for making those little dobs of glue at each end of your fletches. These little dobs serve as a 'ramp', which will allow any obstructions the arrow might encounter, to ride up and over the fletches rather than rip them off. The little dobs of Fletchtite also provide some additional strength to hold my fletches in place. Fletchtite remains an essential piece of kit for me.

Mick

[DylanK]

Do you mean the polyurethene in the varnish or whatever you seal shafts with?

[ichiban]

i think he means the finish on the shafts, it gives you a cristal clear finish and is Really hard wearing, however in my experiance (i forget the brand) it can have a tandancy to yellow after a while (well i shot thease arrows for 6 months every day and the 2 that had survived started to take on a slight yellow coulor).

[Mububban]

I thought I'd give a roll of fletching tape a go on some cheapie wooden arrows I'm making up, with 3 inch feathers in a straight Bitzenberger clamp. My initial impressions with fletching tape as opposed to Fletch-tite glue is not impressing me so far. I followed the instructions, ie pressing down with a fingernail to help seat the tape, applying a dob of glue on the front and rear feather tip, and sure it's fast and not smelly or messy, but it just doesn't seem to stick well enough. The main length of the feather is still able to be moved sideways with a bit of nudging. Hmm.

I've made a couple of cheapie arrows, we'll see if they last. I know some people swear by the tape, but initial impressions are not..well, impressive.

Where do you get Loctite super gel from?

[Stephen Georgiou]

Loctite gel is available from industrial supplies. The Gel 454 grade loctite.

I brought some mega-bond from a local archery shop here in melbourne and it is great as well.

The reason the tape did not work for you is that the shafts unpainted continue to exude resins and saps weakening the glue on the tape.

If the shaft is painted, you need to wait until they no longer smell of solvent before applying the tape. Most of us can't wait that long....

The other alternative is to wrap the arrow first and then use the tape which will allow you to finish all of your fletching in one night for a couple of dozen arrows.

Or as you suggest, Gel super glue.
Cheers

[Stickbow Hunter]

I have never used the tape but is it compatible with the finish you used on the shafts?

You can purchace Loctite from most engineering sales type places - places that sell bearings etc. I have used Loctite since the early 1990's and have used Loctite 406 for many years. The 406 isn't a gel but I have found it excellent except if you get it in your eye - don't ask how I know. Even with the Loctite I still place a dob of Fletchtite or similar on the front of the feather. I would suggest you do that especially if you shoot off your hand.

Jeff

[matt_d]

Stephen is right, the tape won't hold particularly well on raw timber shafting.. I have never come across a hard finish it wouldn't stick to. The other reason you might find it doesn't stick so well is that you are using a straight fletch, so the feather is trying to move back to its natural curved shape, so will eventually lift the tape. I have had no problems using it with helical fletchings.
Cheers,
Matt

[Nephew]

I think fletchtite is a bit of a con, really, and I've used plenty of it. Loctite and Superglue seem to do just as good, if not better, a job for less.
Fair enough I reckon, Mick. It looks like you put a great deal of effort into your arrows and pay close attention to detail so I can well imagine your frustration at this tape failure. Did you attempt to return it for refund? I suggest it more for informing the company of a faulty product than the money.

[alaninoz]

Thanks for re-raising this discussion. I was thinking of giving fletching tape a try, but now I think I'll stick with 454 and Fletchtite/NPV dabbed at the ends and keep the tape for splicing.

[Mububban]

How do you apply the Loctite 406? I'm paranoid about applying it onto the feather in the clamp and having some dripping unseen, and fusing the feather to the clamp! My fingertips have found out just how quickly and strongly that stuff bonds!

Or do you apply the Loctite to the shaft, and then apply the feather? I'm worried about the glue still creeping up and bonding the feather and clamp together, I have a nasty habit of doing dumb stuff like that

The only place so far in Perth I've found the 454 gel sells for $27 for a 20gr tube!!!

[Stickbow Hunter]

I just hold the fletch in the clamp and up in the light so I can see as I run a thin film of glue along the fletch. Rub a bit of bees wax along the edge of your clamp to help stop the glue sticking if you put a bit much on. Once you have done a few you find you can place just the right amount of glue on the fletch.

Jeff

[stringnstik]

Just re reading some of this thread.

Jeff!
so we are brothers in the super glue in the eye trick,yeah not a lot of fun.I was lucky and got water at it within seconds. Not sure why for that moment I had left the safety glasses on the bench. Was a little unusual tho to have a tube break midway and squirt, but then the humble orange often still gets me too

I think it has more to do with the type of wood or the sealant/finish than anything else. I have played with many shafts, sealer's and processes. Ive had occasions where nothing would stick to it. Ive also seen the best looking fletched arras looking very sad after a spot of rain, so far that hasn't happened to mine.

I still use both glue or tape depending on a whim on the making day with excellent results.

[Stickbow Hunter]

Mark, Glad your eye was alright as that sure would have been a bit worring there for a moment or two.

In my case I had fletched up some arras with Loctite 406 and when finished I was giving them the once over and gave one a spin; well there was obviously a drop of still wet Loctite and it flicked out and hit my left eye about dead centre of the pupil. The pain was severe and forty five minutes later I was in A & E. The Loctite was stuck fast over my eye and they decided to leave it to see if it would fall off over night - not likely. Anyway a specialist looked at it the next morning and he set about scraping the glue off with a needle point. With numbing drops that didn't hurt but man I sure was hoping he had a steady hand. Thankfully I was left with no scarring in my eye. So, one does need to be careful for sure.

Jeff

[Jayson Inglis]

I use fletchtite Platnum. I've had no problems with it on wood or carbons.
Cheers.

[Mububban]

What's the Advantage of the Platinum over regular Fletch-tite?

[littlejohn]

I use fletch tite and bind with cotton or dental floss then pva over binding.

ps ...i like the smell of fletch tite

[longbowinfected]

Balsa glue is cheaper, comes in a bigger tube and smells nicer. Still think the Loctite 406 is great but boy it dries fast. I use both on nocks and points. I still use fletching tape but use it on school text book covering Contact with a hellical and tie it on. I coat the ties with Balsa glue. Never lose feathers. Easy to shoot in rain. It is important to grind the feather bases down and clean them.

I do all my flights freehand without jigs but do hold the flights which are very small in large document clamps rubbed with bees wax.

Kev

[Andy]

Thought I'd throw my tuppence worth in,

I've only been shooting a couple of years or so, but early on I got fairly heavily into making the arrows and doing fancy fletching and all that.

Whether it's been on woods (plain, crowned and varnished etc), alloys (or carbons for a few compounders that want feather-fletched indoor arrows) I've never had any issues with Fletchtite, either the old stuff or the Platinum. Just stick 'em on using a jig and leave for about 20 minutes, then put a dot each end. Even fairly helical fletches with about eight fancy splices in each have worked fine. Fletchtite is fine for the nocks too.

At the pointy end, whether it's taper fit or screw on I just clean the inside of the points with a bit of lighter fluid and glue on with a little Araldite. They'll pop off with a bit of heat applied if you want to change them.

As I hope Kevin (and Bob, Reg, Matt, Wayne, Tom, Damon, Frank, Mark T, Mark S, Willy and quite a few others who've paid me for arrows can testify) this seems to work pretty well.

Andy

[Len]

For what its worth ( probably not much ) I wouldn't even bother making arrows if it wasn't for fletching tape. I've never had any probs with it and have had arrows out in all sorts of weather and shot arrows at all types of speeds and its always been fine.

[longbowinfected]

Len, spot on. I reckon the tape cushions the fletch and gives them a bit of a spring.

Andy, I would rate your arrows up there with the best......hated beating you with your second hand arrows...nahhhhhh.....loved it cos it aint going to happen too often. Only happened on your bad day and my second best day.... at least we were enjoying shooting our woods until the measuring sticks come out. Forgetting the rulebook, I reckon you acted with considerable fortitude and best possible humour through that. Most would have spat the dummy. I dips me lid. Yorkshiremen are made of sterner, stronger stuff than the average.

By the way your arrows go real well at field and target too.

Kev

[Mububban]

For what its worth ( probably not much ) I wouldn't even bother making arrows if it wasn't for fletching tape. I've never had any probs with it and have had arrows out in all sorts of weather and shot arrows at all types of speeds and its always been fine.

Len, is this on timber shafts, aluminium or carbon? I must admit I've onyl tried on timber so far and was not impressed at all. I have one set of alli's that might need a fletch repaired soon so I might give that a go then.

[Len]

All of the above with no probs.

[ontothepigs]

No mention of fletchtite / fletchtite platnuim. They no good for wood shafts?

Definately dont talk about that stuff, I used some on my "other" bow and I must have had a bad run of three or four tubes as it was really really brittle.

I have used the Bohning tape and it is prime. I am only learning to shoot the curve and am plowing four out of five shots under the ground. Now that I am hitting the target it is all good. Actually went out and bought two more rolls after the first one was so good. I really dont like it when you use something and it is all good and then a bad batch is imported and puts you off, thats how it is with the fletchtite with me.

The loctite stuff is great, just get it from bunnings and keep it in the fridge. In with the beers to keep the misses happy, seems to keep better that way in the tropics.

[Guy Layton]

I have just finished my third roll of fletch tap and I must say, I have not had one failure yet...!

Not that I have had any failures with fletching glues either, the tape just cuts down the waiting time four fold...

The other benefit with fletch tape is that if you are careful, you can pull your old feathers off and re-use them again...

Cheers Guy

[jaselpool]

Fletchtite, Saunders Arrow mate, HMG adhesive - all great for wood shafts

Jase

[dmm]

As a result of this thread, and being a new fletcher, I first tried Loctite super glue (not the gel) which was easily available from the local IGA supermarket. I used this on some recycled aluminum shafts and haven't lost a fletch. Easy to use, but next time I'll wear safety glasses. Never occurred to me I might get it in my eyes.

I've now ordered some Boehing Fletch tape and look forward to trying it on some new aluminum shafts I've bought.

Thanks guys.

Update:
I used the fletching tape for the first time tonight.
Little strange at first, especially separating the backing before fixing the fletch to the shaft.
Looks very nice, and so fast compared to glue.

I'll shoot with them tomorrow. I'm thinking this might be too good to be true.

Final Update:
I've used these fletch-taped arrows in the field. Buried them in the grass, passed through some cardboard box filled targets, didn't loose a fletch. Hope I don't get a bad batch, but I'm now sold on fletch tape.

[JoeLethbridge]

I use bohning platinum fletchtite- At the regional archery shop it costs slightly more than $10 but when I went down to Bundaberg last year I was forced to buy a tube for double the price - either that or crappy, slow-drying pva glue Now I just buy it off ebay at $17 (I think) for 3 tubes
Cheers, Joe

[slinkymalinky]

I use tape for most of my fletching but I've had problems with it when fletching skinny shafts with a pronounced helical (Easton Axis FMJs). I'm not sure if it's the arrow diameter or the aluminium outer finish but the tape doesn't hold the feather flat to the shaft and follow around the curve... it usually starts to lift along the outside edge near the nock end... not all the way off, just so one edge of the feather base sits up. I've switched to super glue for my skinny hunting shafts and I use Zip Kicker accelerator which makes the whole process just as fast as with tape. I also usually use arrow wraps so that when I want/need to refletch, removal of super-glued feathers isn't a problem.