Grey Myrtle Self Bow
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Grey Myrtle Self Bow
Hi All
Just finished a self bow from the Grey Myrtle that I cut a year or so ago.
The bow is 70" nock to nock and 50# at 28". The timber has proved to be extremely stiff and resilient and I am pleased with result. I used the least satisfactory stave I had and this has resulted in having to straighten it quite a bit to get decent string alignment. Also the stave had one reflexed and one deflexed limb caused by shape at the fades of the handle. I decided to tiller it to a uniform shape despite the irregular limbs and the result has been satisfactory in that the reflex limb has taken a little permanent set during tillering due to the higher stress. This has made the overall tiller reasonably even.
Just finished a self bow from the Grey Myrtle that I cut a year or so ago.
The bow is 70" nock to nock and 50# at 28". The timber has proved to be extremely stiff and resilient and I am pleased with result. I used the least satisfactory stave I had and this has resulted in having to straighten it quite a bit to get decent string alignment. Also the stave had one reflexed and one deflexed limb caused by shape at the fades of the handle. I decided to tiller it to a uniform shape despite the irregular limbs and the result has been satisfactory in that the reflex limb has taken a little permanent set during tillering due to the higher stress. This has made the overall tiller reasonably even.
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Hi Jayden
There is nothing flash about my tillering set up. It is just a wall with a few lines on it and a place to sit the bow. I use a small hand winch to draw the bow and a scale to tell how much I am loading it. The spots and marks on the wall are just a few points I have used to make it easy to pick the ends of the same lines
Hope this helps --- Graeme
There is nothing flash about my tillering set up. It is just a wall with a few lines on it and a place to sit the bow. I use a small hand winch to draw the bow and a scale to tell how much I am loading it. The spots and marks on the wall are just a few points I have used to make it easy to pick the ends of the same lines
Hope this helps --- Graeme
Hi Jayden
No Idea what you consider a normal tillering board --- what I use is fairly common and most tillering boards are some sort of a shelf on a wall with some way to draw the bow.
The only thing I can think of that you might be talking about is the tillering sticks that some people use which is just a bit of wood with a place on one end that you place the bow and some notches to hook the string on.
The tillering stick is sort of a way to hold the bow drawn if you do not have a wall to use or you need something portable but the end result is the same as you usually put the bow on the tiller stick then stand it against a wall to look at it.
If you are talking about something else try to explain it and I will tell you what I think.
Graeme
No Idea what you consider a normal tillering board --- what I use is fairly common and most tillering boards are some sort of a shelf on a wall with some way to draw the bow.
The only thing I can think of that you might be talking about is the tillering sticks that some people use which is just a bit of wood with a place on one end that you place the bow and some notches to hook the string on.
The tillering stick is sort of a way to hold the bow drawn if you do not have a wall to use or you need something portable but the end result is the same as you usually put the bow on the tiller stick then stand it against a wall to look at it.
If you are talking about something else try to explain it and I will tell you what I think.
Graeme
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Thanks --Tom and Jeff
I am pleased with it and it has proved the timber to be very satisfactory -- I will try one of the better shaped staves next, now that I have got a feel for it. I have a real nice stave with a good natural reflex that will give me another flat bow and a narrow ELB which this timber will be perfect for since it is so strong and elastic.
Hi Jape
The pattern / texture on the back is just the way the tree grows. All I did was remove the bark and that was the surface you are seeing. I did not even sand it much since it was tight and smooth despite the texture, I just gave it a rub with steel wool before I finished it with Danish Oil.
I think if you produced this sort of texture on the back of a bow by wire brushing you would cause all the fibers to be broken and the bow would probably fail. In my case because the texture was the way the tree grew it meant that the fibers are in tact which is why I did not want to even sand it too much
Graeme
I am pleased with it and it has proved the timber to be very satisfactory -- I will try one of the better shaped staves next, now that I have got a feel for it. I have a real nice stave with a good natural reflex that will give me another flat bow and a narrow ELB which this timber will be perfect for since it is so strong and elastic.
Hi Jape
The pattern / texture on the back is just the way the tree grows. All I did was remove the bark and that was the surface you are seeing. I did not even sand it much since it was tight and smooth despite the texture, I just gave it a rub with steel wool before I finished it with Danish Oil.
I think if you produced this sort of texture on the back of a bow by wire brushing you would cause all the fibers to be broken and the bow would probably fail. In my case because the texture was the way the tree grew it meant that the fibers are in tact which is why I did not want to even sand it too much
Graeme
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Hi Losty
Yes I got the little hand winch from an auto accessory shop -- I have the sort with webbing not a wire rope which is better since it does not get kinked. I think it cost about $40
Graeme
Hi Gus
The handle is about 25mm wide and about 40 deep so it feels a bit skinny in my hand. I think the 25 wide makes it seem skinny but it feels OK to shoot and the very rectangular shape stops it trying to rotate in your hand. It is a very common shape on a self bow Bow.
Graeme
Yes I got the little hand winch from an auto accessory shop -- I have the sort with webbing not a wire rope which is better since it does not get kinked. I think it cost about $40
Graeme
Hi Gus
The handle is about 25mm wide and about 40 deep so it feels a bit skinny in my hand. I think the 25 wide makes it seem skinny but it feels OK to shoot and the very rectangular shape stops it trying to rotate in your hand. It is a very common shape on a self bow Bow.
Graeme
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H
I am at present making a bow out of a tree we have growing here that we call Australian myrtle (I don't know the real name for it)it is an invasive alien. The tests I did on it were very promising . The wood is very gnarly looks a bit like the wood in the photo except it has holes were side branches come out of the trunk and these seem to get deeper as the tree gets bigger to the point were you cant make a bow out of the bigger trees.The bark is very shaggy and papery and peels of easily. Does any one know which myrtle it is (I could try and post some photos) and have any advice for me
Thanks
good shootin
Chris
I am at present making a bow out of a tree we have growing here that we call Australian myrtle (I don't know the real name for it)it is an invasive alien. The tests I did on it were very promising . The wood is very gnarly looks a bit like the wood in the photo except it has holes were side branches come out of the trunk and these seem to get deeper as the tree gets bigger to the point were you cant make a bow out of the bigger trees.The bark is very shaggy and papery and peels of easily. Does any one know which myrtle it is (I could try and post some photos) and have any advice for me
Thanks
good shootin
Chris
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Ok
I went wandering around in the bushes this afternoon and got some photos of the tree. I hope I have down scaled them correctly
(The stave I was working on turned itself into fire wood no problem I got another out and started working on it ;at 01.30am; )
I went wandering around in the bushes this afternoon and got some photos of the tree. I hope I have down scaled them correctly
(The stave I was working on turned itself into fire wood no problem I got another out and started working on it ;at 01.30am; )
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Hi Chris
hard to be sure without a photo of the flowers and fruit but if it is definitely Australian then it is most likely to be a Melaleuca as we suggested --- not much chance of it making a good bow unfortunately. There must be something better growing locally, perhaps some of the Acacia family. You need wood that is close grained and dense.
Graeme
hard to be sure without a photo of the flowers and fruit but if it is definitely Australian then it is most likely to be a Melaleuca as we suggested --- not much chance of it making a good bow unfortunately. There must be something better growing locally, perhaps some of the Acacia family. You need wood that is close grained and dense.
Graeme
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http://www.sabonet.org.za/aliens/aliens ... taceae.htm
this might help identify it mate
seems you have ironbark there, that would be much better if i remember some informative posts from australian bow makers rightly?
this might help identify it mate
seems you have ironbark there, that would be much better if i remember some informative posts from australian bow makers rightly?
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Hi
Its me again (on a mission have to find out what's this tree)
I've found some flowers and seed pods
no one in the area seems to know the botanical name not even the local parks board, most just call it Australian myrtle (dam this is frustrating ),it showed so much potential with the mini bow I made that I have cut quite a few staves
The flowers don't look like the bottle brush
Thanks jape went onto the site but couldn't find anything concrete but will carry on trying
Its me again (on a mission have to find out what's this tree)
I've found some flowers and seed pods
no one in the area seems to know the botanical name not even the local parks board, most just call it Australian myrtle (dam this is frustrating ),it showed so much potential with the mini bow I made that I have cut quite a few staves
The flowers don't look like the bottle brush
Thanks jape went onto the site but couldn't find anything concrete but will carry on trying
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we all die but we don't all live
- african man
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