G'day all
I've been experimenting with 4 and 5" sheild cuts on my arrows to see if there are any relative advantages and disadvantages. I am assuming 11/32 or 5/16 arrows that weight between 450-550 grains with an FOC of about 11%; either barrel tapered or straight.
From what I can see so far, 5" adds greater stability earlier on but at the expense of drag. At longer distances, say greater than 30m the drag slows the arrow down quicker. Also 5" fletches are more susceptible to high winds. For clout shoots, winds can have a significant effect on.
Now 4" sheild cuts have appear to be less influenced by high winds and seem to have less drag thereby improved arrow speed. This translates to less drop at longer distances, say above 40m and greater range.
So does this mean that at shorter distances, say less than 30m, longer fletches are preferable?
Does anyone have any thughts and comments about the different fletch profiles?
To date I don't see any difference in performance between parabolics and shield cuts. I haven't used any of the other profiles though.
Happy shooting and looking forward to your comments
Fletch length and profiles
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Fletch length and profiles
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- Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
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- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
I use rather high 5" sheild cut feathers because I like the look of them. I also use them because at close hunting distances they will help stabalize my arra quickly if I do a less than perfect release etc.
I have never shot long range but when I use to shoot ABA years ago I never found a problem with using 5" flights. You soon get used to the trajectory.
Jeff
I have never shot long range but when I use to shoot ABA years ago I never found a problem with using 5" flights. You soon get used to the trajectory.
Jeff
- Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Mayland
I've done lots of tests and trials in this area. I haven't really been able to make up my mind in the past, so I have purposely made sets of arrows with different fletching to see how they perform at different tasks. I don't profess to know everything about it, but these have been my observations so far.
For general 3D shooting, I find the best fletching to be 3 x 5 inch shield cut feathers. The reason being, some shots are taken a very close range. The smaller animals are nearly always set at short range. I've found that 3 x 4 inch fletched arrows sometimes haven't straightened out into a smooth flight before impact. I will sometimes see the rear of the arrow heading straight towards to kill zone, but when it impacts, the point of the arrow impacts some inches away from where it would have, had it's flight characteristics settled down before impact. When I switched over to identical arrows apart from having the longer fletching this situation was no longer a problem. For the slightly longer ranges involved in this event, where some targets might be around 30 metres out, the additional drag of the longer fletching compared to the shorter fletching is undetectable to me. The difference is so small it's unnoticeable.
For other events, such as the 'King's Round', where some shots are taken from 50 metres, I prefer using arrows with 3 x 4 inch fletches. Most misses at these longer ranges are caused by incorrectly estimating the amount of holdover necessary to ensure a good accurate shot. I feel that the less drag offered by the shorter fletches will minimize the curve of the trajectory of the arrow and thereby should increase your chances of getting the elevation right.
I suspect that shield cut fletches do offer a slight advantage over parabolic cut fletches in stabilizing the flight of arrows, as they do present a slightly larger profile, but at the cost of slightly more drag.
I have also done some experimenting with the advantages of using small diameter shafting. I believe that using 5/16 inch POC shafts offers some advantages over other heavier shafting. If you can find some 5/16 inch shafts that are spined slightly heavier than necessary and then fit them with slightly heavier points, you will achieve excellent flight characteristics combined with a flat trajectory. This aspect can be further enhanced by fletching these arrows with smaller low drag fletches. I Also did some experimenting with very light points on lightweight shafts, but the results were very unpredictable, with many shots going haywire without any logical reason. Of course, I'm talking purely about competition shooting here with lightweight arrows, for hunting, I much prefer to use nice heavy arrows for better penetration.
One other thing I've learned the hard way is to always fletch your competition arrows with very bright fletches. Once when shooting at 50 metres, using darkly stained arrows with 3 x 4 inch barred fletches, I couldn't see my arrows in the target, even with my prescription glasses on. After the first shot, I just did the same thing for all the subsequent shots for that round. When I went to retrieve my arrows I was dismayed to see all my arrows grouped very tightly in the dirt below the target face. This wouldn't have happened if I had been using my usual white fletches.
I would also like to do some tests comparing the performance of 4 x 4 inch fletches comparing them 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 inch fletches. Unfortunately, I've lost the accessory to my fletching jig that allows for 4 fletch arrows and these jigs are no longer made. Maybe its time to buy myself a new fletching jig.
I will be interested to hear what others have to say on this subject.
Mick
I've done lots of tests and trials in this area. I haven't really been able to make up my mind in the past, so I have purposely made sets of arrows with different fletching to see how they perform at different tasks. I don't profess to know everything about it, but these have been my observations so far.
For general 3D shooting, I find the best fletching to be 3 x 5 inch shield cut feathers. The reason being, some shots are taken a very close range. The smaller animals are nearly always set at short range. I've found that 3 x 4 inch fletched arrows sometimes haven't straightened out into a smooth flight before impact. I will sometimes see the rear of the arrow heading straight towards to kill zone, but when it impacts, the point of the arrow impacts some inches away from where it would have, had it's flight characteristics settled down before impact. When I switched over to identical arrows apart from having the longer fletching this situation was no longer a problem. For the slightly longer ranges involved in this event, where some targets might be around 30 metres out, the additional drag of the longer fletching compared to the shorter fletching is undetectable to me. The difference is so small it's unnoticeable.
For other events, such as the 'King's Round', where some shots are taken from 50 metres, I prefer using arrows with 3 x 4 inch fletches. Most misses at these longer ranges are caused by incorrectly estimating the amount of holdover necessary to ensure a good accurate shot. I feel that the less drag offered by the shorter fletches will minimize the curve of the trajectory of the arrow and thereby should increase your chances of getting the elevation right.
I suspect that shield cut fletches do offer a slight advantage over parabolic cut fletches in stabilizing the flight of arrows, as they do present a slightly larger profile, but at the cost of slightly more drag.
I have also done some experimenting with the advantages of using small diameter shafting. I believe that using 5/16 inch POC shafts offers some advantages over other heavier shafting. If you can find some 5/16 inch shafts that are spined slightly heavier than necessary and then fit them with slightly heavier points, you will achieve excellent flight characteristics combined with a flat trajectory. This aspect can be further enhanced by fletching these arrows with smaller low drag fletches. I Also did some experimenting with very light points on lightweight shafts, but the results were very unpredictable, with many shots going haywire without any logical reason. Of course, I'm talking purely about competition shooting here with lightweight arrows, for hunting, I much prefer to use nice heavy arrows for better penetration.
One other thing I've learned the hard way is to always fletch your competition arrows with very bright fletches. Once when shooting at 50 metres, using darkly stained arrows with 3 x 4 inch barred fletches, I couldn't see my arrows in the target, even with my prescription glasses on. After the first shot, I just did the same thing for all the subsequent shots for that round. When I went to retrieve my arrows I was dismayed to see all my arrows grouped very tightly in the dirt below the target face. This wouldn't have happened if I had been using my usual white fletches.
I would also like to do some tests comparing the performance of 4 x 4 inch fletches comparing them 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 inch fletches. Unfortunately, I've lost the accessory to my fletching jig that allows for 4 fletch arrows and these jigs are no longer made. Maybe its time to buy myself a new fletching jig.
I will be interested to hear what others have to say on this subject.
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
Re: Fletch length and profiles
Good Morning the 'Western Horde'.
There are shield cuts and there are shield cuts - I have 5" shield cuts that have a greater area than the equivalent 5" parabolics and the reverse.
I have noticed that the commercial 3" Shields I have been using over the last couple of years are substantially higher in the fletch than 3" parabolics.
Try some 2 1/2" fletches for longer ranges.
Somewhere along here you need to take into account how high the fletch has to be to start working effectively due to the flow effects close to the shaft. (3/8" seems to ring a bell as being a good start point but without any evidence I would not categorically say that is the height.)
Final comment - try shooting 6 fletch speed blunts (Flu-Flus). It is interesting how little effect varying spine values have when you are using them. Long fletches look good to my eyes.
Mick
Yep. (Plus beyond 40/50 metres vanes, which have even less drag, can be a better option.)From what I can see so far, 5" adds greater stability earlier on but at the expense of drag. At longer distances, say greater than 30m the drag slows the arrow down quicker. Also 5" fletches are more susceptible to high winds. For clout shoots, winds can have a significant effect on.
Yep. Plus the cross-sectional area of the cone of dispersion will be less.Now 4" sheild cuts have appear to be less influenced by high winds and seem to have less drag thereby improved arrow speed. This translates to less drop at longer distances, say above 40m and greater range.
Personal choice - but I lean that way. I should say fletches with a greater area rather than longer.So does this mean that at shorter distances, say less than 30m, longer fletches are preferable?
Fletches that are noisy are turning KE of the arrow into sound which means drag. The noisier the fletches the larger the drag. And tall fletches are noisier. (However sometime you want noise - especially if you are doing a display - people expect the arrows to sound like the ones they see/hear in the movies.)Does anyone have any thughts and comments about the different fletch profiles?
Measure the area of the fletch. It varies. The large the area, the more the drag. Look at the medieval design very long but very low so the drag was not that high - although, still more than they probably needed. You also need to hand cut some 'Elven' fletches, in your copious amounts of spare time, just so you can see how they perform.To date I don't see any difference in performance between parabolics and shield cuts. I haven't used any of the other profiles though.
There are shield cuts and there are shield cuts - I have 5" shield cuts that have a greater area than the equivalent 5" parabolics and the reverse.
I have noticed that the commercial 3" Shields I have been using over the last couple of years are substantially higher in the fletch than 3" parabolics.
Try some 2 1/2" fletches for longer ranges.
Somewhere along here you need to take into account how high the fletch has to be to start working effectively due to the flow effects close to the shaft. (3/8" seems to ring a bell as being a good start point but without any evidence I would not categorically say that is the height.)
Final comment - try shooting 6 fletch speed blunts (Flu-Flus). It is interesting how little effect varying spine values have when you are using them. Long fletches look good to my eyes.
Mick
I cannot see the fletches at anything over 30 metres as I am looking end-on onto the arrows but I can see the nocks. For some time I used Orange nocks on my compound and so could see them easily. However, recently I changed to yellow nocks as some other people had started using orange nocks. The first thing I discovered was I couldn't see my nocks! Yep - you guessed it Yellow nocks don't show up against the gold background. So now I am using orange nocks again for it.One other thing I've learned the hard way is to always fletch your competition arrows with very bright fletches. Once when shooting at 50 metres, using darkly stained arrows with 3 x 4 inch barred fletches, I couldn't see my arrows in the target, even with my prescription glasses on. After the first shot, I just did the same thing for all the subsequent shots for that round. When I went to retrieve my arrows I was dismayed to see all my arrows grouped very tightly in the dirt below the target face. This wouldn't have happened if I had been using my usual white fletches.
Easy solution. Fletch what would normally be the two "Hen feathers" on a 3 fletch. Then take the shaft out and turn it over. Then fletch another two "Hen feathers" on a 3 fletch. The result is a fletching profile of 60 deg, 120 deg 60 deg, 120 deg. I often use it.I would also like to do some tests comparing the performance of 4 x 4 inch fletches comparing them 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 inch fletches. Unfortunately, I've lost the accessory to my fletching jig that allows for 4 fletch arrows and these jigs are no longer made. Maybe its time to buy myself a new fletching jig.
Grahame.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
- coolhippy80
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