string line-up

Where to source materials etc. Also the place to show off your new bow or quiver etc.... Making things belongs in Traditional Crafts.

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jape

string line-up

#1 Post by jape » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:51 am

I asked this in another thread but it might easily have got missed. I asked the maker but haven't had a reply yet.

I know I ask a lot of questions and pick your brains but I am serious about getting to a competent level which is proving more difficult than I thought! These small details all add up to my knowledge and the replies I get, even if they don't always seem logical (to me), have gradually got me improving.

My bow string lies out of centre down the bow. This was before I altered the bow weight by shaving the width but is more apparent now as the bow is thinner. The nocks (which I have left well alone) seem to have a bit of bias to them to cause this and I wondered if it is usual because it is a flatbow design, to get the arrow round the bow easier.

How does this offset affect accuracy and flight to good or bad? Does it help with the 'archer's paradox'? I know you can get used to any bow in the end but wondered about this as I haven't seen it in anything I read about bow design yet.

longbow steve
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#2 Post by longbow steve » Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:07 pm

Hi Jape, the string ideally aligns down the centre of the length of the bow, nocks should be equal and symmetrical but can be adjusted to correct limb twists/lists but may also cause the above if they are not even( this is more pronounced in recurves). Natural materials, not being homogenous can bend differently if grain runs out or if the backing/glue lines/tiller are not perfect. The bow can develop this after tillering if strung inncorrectly etc
What weight is the bow now? What weight are you comfortable with? hope ive helped. Steve

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Llwyd The Gray
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#3 Post by Llwyd The Gray » Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:16 pm

Hi Jape,

Good questions. Is it to the left or right? Are you shooting traditional? no sights etc? The intent as you may know of windows and shelves being cut into the risers of a bow is to help with the paradox. Long ago we didn't have that option and I'm sure my bow bending buddies will agree. As we became smarter and more experience with technique and physics we soon learn't that having the string alignment and arrow path shooting through the bow may well prove better?? However for the traditionalists this is not so and depends much on technique, arrow spine and a whole gammit of other things.

Pick what style you wish to pursue, it's better in my book to be good at one thing than just o.k at a lot. Something I'm still wrestling with!! If I'm not mistaken a lot of peole will have differing concepts on what to do. As I have said earlier pick a style of bow and class first. then comes the practice, practice and more practice! To be competitive takes some a while, others not so long. But in all of this try and have a lot of fun and keep asking questions. We all have a story and experience to pass on. And, Aussie Bow Benders are some of the best in the world :D
"pluck ye cords of war, thence purvey thy enemy as he trembles in the shafted shadows of death!" - Llwyd the Gray (Crecy 1346)

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#4 Post by greybeard » Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:31 pm

Hi Jape,
You did not mention if the flatbow was self or laminated. From previous experience with self bows I scrape or sand the belly if I need to reduce poundage. By doing this you remove less wood to obtain the same result by shaving the edges. I believe the ratio is somewhere around 7 to 1.
Have you checked that the string grooves are symmetrical as you mentioned that the string was off centre before you shaved the limbs. If they are not symmetrical they could be pulling the string off center. Also it may help to check the limb cross section in case one edge is a little thicker.
Hope this helps,
Daryl.

Can you post a photo of the bow?
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken.
[Ascham]

“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]

I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....

jape

#5 Post by jape » Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:04 pm

Thanks folks, I bust it today (some pics in that thread called ... 'bust it')

When I re-glue the handle I will try scraping the belly a touch and lighten it even more, which I need. It will be practice for tillering a bow too.

By eye the grooves are only just a little bit out, but over nearly six foot I guess that adds up, especially as it is indeed thicker on one side. It is only a 1/16" or so but that must be enough now it is less wide.

I'm off to Bunnings to get a spokeshave then, if they have any english or german rather than chinese ones!
jape

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#6 Post by greybeard » Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:43 pm

Hi Jape,
If you are going to save the bow I would suggest using a scraper and sandpaper as a spokeshave may be a little aggressive in what you need to do. The spokeshave is one of my favourite tools for selfbows but is used in the earlier stages of shaping the bow. Elbow grease, scrapers and sandpaper is the better way to finish the bow.

Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken.
[Ascham]

“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]

I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....

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