Hi All!
I am picking up some elm, hopefully this Saturday. A friend in Ballarat has told me that it is impossible to split and has to be sawn. Paul Comstock on TBB vol. 1 states:
"Slippery elm can be split much like any other wood. It's work, because all elms have interlocking grain to some degree. The white elm trees typically have more pronounced interlocking grain and are murder to split. I cheat. I use a circular saw to make cuts on either side of the log, and hammer wedges into the cuts."
This was the method I was intending to use on Dennis's advice anyway. Has anybody else any comments to make on splitting elm, particularly in Victoria as geographical location can affect the growth of trees to a certain extent, that they'd like to share?
Thanks,
Andrea
Splitting Elm
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Andrea Willett
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:42 am
- Location: Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Hi, Make sure the tree you choose is straight, and has straight grain, as you can have a straight looking trunk with corkscrew grain. You can usually tell by the regularity of the bark pattern.
To mark out the line, you need a builders chalk line. Align this with the grain, snap the string and it will leave a straight line.
The next step depends on the size of the log. I usually have a plumb bob, that I hang of the end, use it to plot a line on the end grain. Keep the log steady and repeat at the other end.
If you have access to a chainsaw and experience using it, I would recommend ripping the whole length, using the end line to keep the saw straight.
If you only have a circular saw, set it for a shallow cut. Make sure the cord is over your shoulder so you don't accidently sever it. wear eye and hearing protection. Keep to the side of the saw not behind it, as you will occasionally get some kickback on the bark. Gradually increase the depth of cut with each pass and remember to keep the angle of the blade consistent.
Use wedges and a sledge to split down the kerf. The split will be coarse, with some tear out. But elm is nowhere near as hard to split as interlocked grain on some ironbarks. Sometimes you can get away with, no kerfing before splitting.
It helps to have lots of wedges and a few strong friends to take turns with the sledge. Splitting is the kind of activity that helps if you have done it before. Practice on some smaller pieces pieces first. Each tree reacts differently, and can require unique problem solving when things don't go according to plan.
Don't leave whitewoods outside or lying on the ground as they are very susceptible to insect and fungal attack. Seal the end grain with glue to prevent checking.
I'm not 100% sure with elm, but you can remove the bark on european ash and it won't check in normal conditions. We are heading into hot weather though.You can't usually get away by doing this with most native species.Just to be safe you could coat the freshly peeled stave's growth ring/bow back with glue, or shellac .
You can partly work the green wood, cutting an oversized bow shape, leaving the tips wide in case they warp during seasoning.
Hamish.
To mark out the line, you need a builders chalk line. Align this with the grain, snap the string and it will leave a straight line.
The next step depends on the size of the log. I usually have a plumb bob, that I hang of the end, use it to plot a line on the end grain. Keep the log steady and repeat at the other end.
If you have access to a chainsaw and experience using it, I would recommend ripping the whole length, using the end line to keep the saw straight.
If you only have a circular saw, set it for a shallow cut. Make sure the cord is over your shoulder so you don't accidently sever it. wear eye and hearing protection. Keep to the side of the saw not behind it, as you will occasionally get some kickback on the bark. Gradually increase the depth of cut with each pass and remember to keep the angle of the blade consistent.
Use wedges and a sledge to split down the kerf. The split will be coarse, with some tear out. But elm is nowhere near as hard to split as interlocked grain on some ironbarks. Sometimes you can get away with, no kerfing before splitting.
It helps to have lots of wedges and a few strong friends to take turns with the sledge. Splitting is the kind of activity that helps if you have done it before. Practice on some smaller pieces pieces first. Each tree reacts differently, and can require unique problem solving when things don't go according to plan.
Don't leave whitewoods outside or lying on the ground as they are very susceptible to insect and fungal attack. Seal the end grain with glue to prevent checking.
I'm not 100% sure with elm, but you can remove the bark on european ash and it won't check in normal conditions. We are heading into hot weather though.You can't usually get away by doing this with most native species.Just to be safe you could coat the freshly peeled stave's growth ring/bow back with glue, or shellac .
You can partly work the green wood, cutting an oversized bow shape, leaving the tips wide in case they warp during seasoning.
Hamish.
