A New Hunting Bow And Change Out Of $25-00.

Where to source materials etc. Also the place to show off your new bow or quiver etc.... Making things belongs in Traditional Crafts.

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
Message
Author
User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

A New Hunting Bow And Change Out Of $25-00.

#1 Post by greybeard » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:04 pm

How many times do you hear that 'longbows are too cumbersome in the bush?'

The challenge was to make a shorter one that would be effective. To achieve this goal I used a Dean Torges type of adjustable form because this allows you to make all styles of bow on a single platform. With solid forms you need one for every style of bow.

The core laminations were glued both sides of the handle and tips added to strengthen the string grooves and then the back and belly bamboo laminations were added.
For the back and belly bamboo laminations the bigger the diameter of the pole the better which gives a flatter crown. It is advisable to have the plan of the bow marked out on the back core lamination so you can remove the excess before applying the final back and belly laminations. If need be make a cardboard template to enable you to mark out the shape on the outer laminations.

Cut the laminations to the template and remove the softer inner of the bamboo until you almost have a knife edge. By doing this you will get a natural taper in the lamination. The bamboo back is butt joined at the centre of the handle because I cut 'twins' so that the nodes are equally spaced on both limbs. Similarly I do the same with the belly lamination but cut in such a manner that these nodes fall in between the nodes on the back. With the adjustable form you can move the position of the posts and substitute different height posts to achieve the desired shape. I use 'F' clamps on the posts to pull the bow into the shape and small 'G' clamps on the limbs between the posts. You can make extra posts to suit each application.
If you are accurate with your laminations the bow will be 'almost tillered' when it comes out of the form. In your design allow up to an inch or so on the end posts to allow for string follow.

The bow is sixty one inches nock to nock, five and a half inch brace height and draws 50# @ 27". The core laminations are spotted gum (cut from a floor board) with the back and belly being bamboo. The hardwood and silver ash handle as well as the red ash tips came out of the off cuts box.

I had a bowyer friend test shoot it for me (as I have no shooting form at all) and he was able to group arrows in a five inch dot at thirty yards. He was surprised at the bows performance as he makes glass laminated longbows.

Not bad for a bow that cost under $25-00.

Daryl.
Short Longbow Handle.jpg
Short Longbow Handle.jpg (35.18 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Short Longbow Tip.jpg
Short Longbow Tip.jpg (28.62 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Short Longbow.jpg
Short Longbow.jpg (16.25 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Attachments
01 Node Placement.jpg
01 Node Placement.jpg (9.39 KiB) Viewed 5825 times
03 Good Node.jpg
03 Good Node.jpg (9.21 KiB) Viewed 6030 times
04 Bad Node.jpg
04 Bad Node.jpg (9.43 KiB) Viewed 6030 times
Last edited by greybeard on Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
gilnockie
Posts: 603
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 7:34 pm
Location: Hobart Tas

#2 Post by gilnockie » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:50 pm

Hi Greybeard

Where do you buy your bamboo and do you know the name of the variety?
Norman

Draw, anchor, loose.

User avatar
Jeff
Posts: 125
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:40 pm
Location: Auckland New Zealand

great bow

#3 Post by Jeff » Wed Jun 21, 2006 5:59 am

hey mate what a great looking bow.awesome :D
MAY THE SPIRIT OF THE WOLF WATCH OVER YOU AND KEEP YOU SAFE

User avatar
yeoman
Posts: 1563
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 1:32 pm
Location: Canberra

#4 Post by yeoman » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:19 am

Hi Daryl,

got a couple of q's regarding the composite replica in the other post.

Generally, how wide are your centre lams?

During the glue up process, do you have progressivley less extreme profiles, or do you keep the same profile throughout the entire process?

I have read Klopsteg's book, and while it enthuses me to make a hornbow, I just don't have the resources or the time to build one.

Cheers,

Dave
https://www.instagram.com/armworks_australia/

Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/

Articles to start making bows:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/index. ... /tutorials

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#5 Post by greybeard » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:40 pm

Hi! Dave,
For ease of glue up all my centre laminations are the same width, about 35mm. On the top core lamination I have a plan of the bow marked out so I can remove the excess before gluing the final laminations. If you have a template of the plan you can use this to shape the back and belly laminations before you remove the soft inner of the bamboo. This should help you get the taper on the laminations.
I am not quite sure what you mean by the same profile? Are you talking about the position of the posts on the form?
Regards, Daryl.

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#6 Post by greybeard » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:44 pm

Hi! Norman,
The poles I get are bleached (dried by the sun, I think and are yellow gold in colour) as poles also come in green from Asia. From memory I think I am using Mosso (not sure if the spelling is correct).
I get the poles from;

Bamboo Australia Pty. Ltd.
1171 Kenilworth Road
Belli Park Qld
(7) 5447-0299

If contacting them be specific as to the end use. They supply other bowyers and should be able to supply the correct ones.

Daryl.

caveman
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:41 am
Location: SE QLD

#7 Post by caveman » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:55 pm

mate are you interested in making me one, if so give me a price
WORK FILLS IN TIME BETWEEN TRIPS

User avatar
yeoman
Posts: 1563
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 1:32 pm
Location: Canberra

#8 Post by yeoman » Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:38 am

Daryl,

Yes, I mean the position of the posts. ie: are the posts in the same place throughout the whole process, or do you move them so that the shape of the unfinished bow is less extreme with each glue up?

Scientifically, and mathematically, the best results are acheived by having the centre laminations glued into extreme shape, with progressively less extreme shape with each successive lamination.

Not that I want you to feel that I'm lecturing you or anything, I mean, your bamboo composites are lightyears ahead of what I would have been able to do.

Cheers,

Dave
https://www.instagram.com/armworks_australia/

Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/

Articles to start making bows:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/index. ... /tutorials

User avatar
gilnockie
Posts: 603
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 7:34 pm
Location: Hobart Tas

#9 Post by gilnockie » Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:09 pm

Thanks Daryl

I have bought palings from Durn but they are nothing like what you use. Your lams are very similar to what they use in the States.
Norman

Draw, anchor, loose.

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#10 Post by greybeard » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:33 pm

Hi! Dave,
The following refers to the static tip 'Asian' type bow.
I am neither scientifically nor mathematically inclined. Yes I have experimented with moving the end posts in, not out during the glue ups the theory being that by pushing the tips further forward this is where their memory will be set and will want to return to that position when the arrow is loosed. It also helps to reduce string follow. One theory is that the stress levels vary between laminations and produces a smoother shooting bow. Unfortunately I do not have the scientific means to test this theory but the proof in the pudding, how does it shoot in the paddock?
Daryl.

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#11 Post by greybeard » Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:54 pm

Hi,
Here are some photos of two new bows that I've just finished.

The recurve is as it came out of the form so it may need some tillering after shooting a few more arrows.

The short longbow is 60" n to n, and the core has two spotted gum laminations each 2.5 mm with bamboo back and belly.

The recurve is 62" n to n, and the core has three spotted gum laminations each being 1.65 mm with bamboo back and belly.

Although the recurve took a little string follow I was surprised that the recurved tips held their shape. Once again the handle section and tip overlays were made from off cuts.

Daryl.
Recurve On Tiller Board.jpg
Recurve On Tiller Board.jpg (34.49 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Attachments
David trying my new bow.jpg
David trying my new bow.jpg (35.36 KiB) Viewed 5713 times
Last edited by greybeard on Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

wheres the myrtle
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Oct 18, 2004 4:53 pm

#12 Post by wheres the myrtle » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:12 pm

Very pretty bows greybeard, what width are they?

And poundage?

Very nice stuff indeed.

Glenn Newell

#13 Post by Glenn Newell » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:34 pm

That's a couple of nice looking bows Daryl, I would like to hear some more details on your bows as well...Glenn...

gary p
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 5:06 pm
Location: caboolture qld

new bows

#14 Post by gary p » Fri Sep 22, 2006 6:02 am

Hey Daryl, they look great mate you`ll have to bring them along to the Corrival and show them off. cant wait to see them, Gaz.
One crowed hour of glorious life
is worth an age without a name.

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#15 Post by greybeard » Fri Sep 22, 2006 7:13 pm

Hi,

The bow dimensions are as follows. The dimension formatting went funny in the post, appears it can't handle spaceing. Hope you can interpert.
Longbow. Recurve.
Width at fadeout. 1¼" 1¼"
Mid limb. 1" 1-1/16"
String nocks. 5/8" 5/8"
The handle sections were kept to 11" to get more working limb and both bows came out just on 40# @ 28. Also when holding the bow the knuckle is in line with the arrow shelf and seems to give the bow more pointability. The bow designs will handle heavier draw weights but my main aim is to produce a bow with acceptable performance that oldies like me can spend a day on the ranges and survive. Also, there seems to be a move away from glass to bows using more traditional materials.

Daryl.

Gary, I will bring them to the Corrival if not sold in the meantime.
Frank With Short Longbow.jpg
Frank With Short Longbow.jpg (105.88 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Last edited by greybeard on Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
archangel
Posts: 750
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2004 7:26 pm
Location: York, Western Australia

#16 Post by archangel » Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:49 pm

Nice job on both bows Greybeard. I like the special touch on the laminated risers. Great to see bamboo being all natural used as backing and belly. It appears that the bamboo on the back was glued in two separate pieces? I have the same materials ready to work on a new bow -could you advise what thickness you used on the bamboo?

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#17 Post by greybeard » Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:23 pm

Hi Archangel,

The thickness of the bamboo used in the back and belly laminations have always been a bit of a problem in respect to pole diameter and at times the pole being slightly oval.
I always shape the glued up core to near finished size and then transpose this shape to the bamboo. Once the bamboo has been shaped I spoke shave away the soft inner of the bamboo until the edges are down to 1mm or less. It is a bit of a lucky dip as pole diameter plays a big part in determining the thickness. High crowned bamboo from smaller diameter poles can be scraped down to a certain degree but you must be careful not to scrape away too many of the power fibres and that ultimately limb width will determine the height of the crown.
I do use separate laminations for both back and belly laminations. Because of node placement on the pole I cut 'twins' from the top of the pole for the back and the belly lamination 'twins' are cut from nearer the base of the pole. These laminations are cut over length so that I get better node placement between the back and belly. The closer node spacing goes to the handle. With a little trial and error you will get it right.
Hopes this helps,

Daryl.
Last edited by greybeard on Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Sparra
Posts: 470
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 7:18 am
Location: BATEMANS BAY

#18 Post by Sparra » Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:29 pm

Great looking longbow there...If you need more practice I will send you up $25.00 to get the materials and let you make me one... :wink: :wink:
well done mate...
Regards...Sparra

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#19 Post by greybeard » Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:51 pm

Hi,
This reply is in the wrong posting but as I am suffering from crafts disease I can't remember who asked the question.
Anyway it is to do with Z splicing.


Hi Z Splice,
It is probably easy for me to say but Z splicing is relatively simple. To date, I have done about eight spliced handles and have had no problem with any of them. Keep the saw cuts as accurate as possible and do not sand them smooth as this will reduce the effectiveness of the finished bond. When the billets are glued I tap them together and when aligned clamp the spliced area at the centre and at each end of the splice. If you wish, before clamping you can put blocks under the tips of the billets to build in back set which will help reduce string follow. Most two pack glues do have gap filling properties and remember we are not making violins or grand pianos. As I do not know how you are cutting your splices the cuts are done back to belly not edge to edge.
I have attached some photos that may be of assistance.
Hope the above helps,
Daryl.
Attachments
3 Z Splice On Flatbow..jpg
3 Z Splice On Flatbow..jpg (8.14 KiB) Viewed 5577 times
2 Z Splice Bush Billet.jpg
2 Z Splice Bush Billet.jpg (14.12 KiB) Viewed 5577 times
1 Z Splice.jpg
1 Z Splice.jpg (10.09 KiB) Viewed 5577 times

User avatar
yeoman
Posts: 1563
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 1:32 pm
Location: Canberra

#20 Post by yeoman » Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:33 am

Good pictures there of the Z splice.

Greybeard, is that you in one of the photos, WITHOUT your grey beard?

Dave
https://www.instagram.com/armworks_australia/

Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/

Articles to start making bows:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/index. ... /tutorials

User avatar
greybeard
Supporter
Supporter
Posts: 2992
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:11 am
Location: Logan City QLD

#21 Post by greybeard » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:49 pm

Hi Yeoman,

Neither of the gentlemen are guilty.
To protect the innocent I have attached a recent photo.
Greybeard With Static Tip Bow copy.jpg
Greybeard With Static Tip Bow copy.jpg (195.41 KiB) Viewed 5101 times
Daryl.
Last edited by greybeard on Thu Nov 03, 2011 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
yeoman
Posts: 1563
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 1:32 pm
Location: Canberra

#22 Post by yeoman » Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:22 am

THAT'S more like it!

Good looking bow too.

Dave
https://www.instagram.com/armworks_australia/

Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/

Articles to start making bows:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/index. ... /tutorials

Post Reply