Archangel,
The fadeouts in the picture are of the handle for my new bow.
After gluing the handle to the belly lamination I hand sand the fadeouts so that when the back lamination is glued there is a nice transition from handle to laminations. I also do this with the siyahs. The handle is 9" long, this measurement being determined by the overall length of the bow. The laminations are 50" in length. The siyahs will account for a loss of limb length of about 2" each. Out of the 50" we have lost 13" which leaves us 37" to spread over two working limbs. For these styles of bow you have to aim to achieve the maximum working limb length in the given overall length. In achieving this goal make sure that the handle or siyahs do not rob you of working limb length.
The new bow will be a little wider but thinner as I will be using a multi laminated all hardwood core which hopefully will yield better performance at the desired draw length. I have found that in designing these styles of bow the limbs must always be in front of the handle in the un- braced state otherwise the power stroke will suffer.
I forget to mention in an earlier posting that when doing the final glue up of back and belly laminations that you may have to flatten the crown a little in the area that bends into the tips. The crown of the bamboo being convex may split in this section along the fibre alignment. It will not affect the performance of the bow and at worst detract from the bows appearance.
Sorry about the long reply to a short question but one has to look at the overall picture.
Hoping this helps,
Daryl.
PS If you didn't notice in the previous photo the string groove is deeper over the shoulder than the edges to help the string lay better in the siyah.
asian composite build-along
Moderator: Moderators
Daryl,
Thanks for your continued replies and patience in explaining your techniques.
You say that you don't take into account mathsy bits, but the way you describe your taper shape it sound like you're right on track anyway.
This may be a bit of a pain, but if that last pic is one for a new bow, can we ask you to share photos of the rest of the process? Just for interest's sake?
cheers,
Dave
Thanks for your continued replies and patience in explaining your techniques.
You say that you don't take into account mathsy bits, but the way you describe your taper shape it sound like you're right on track anyway.
This may be a bit of a pain, but if that last pic is one for a new bow, can we ask you to share photos of the rest of the process? Just for interest's sake?
cheers,
Dave
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Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/
Articles to start making bows:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/index. ... /tutorials