i'm only new at this so bear with me a little. I was wondering if anyone could tell if there's anything wrong with sharpening grizzly heads from both sides as long as i keep the finished edge off center and therefore away from the brazed joint? I've tried one and have it shaving sharp even though it took a while. Also I made up 2 dozen of those Hex shafts that were all spined and weighted for my 60lb longbow. I had trouble straighting them and keeping them straight even after i completely sealed them all. When i came to testing them, with the same broadhead i've always used, some flew good, some were just o.k. and about 1/3 were damn hopeless. The hopeless ones now live on the wall and i've gone back to P.O.C. Have any of you guys had any trouble with those Hex shafts or tried them at all.
Thanks Bill.
Hex shafts and grizzly heads
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Stickbow Hunter
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G'day Bill,
I have a few but have not tried them. It would seem that the spine was definately different with some of your shafts. Perhaps they weren't matched properly or some got mixed up.
Being the hex ones you would think that they would spine even around the shaft but maybe they are weaker (bend more) in different places. If this was the case they would have to be marked where they were spined so as to be able to put the nocks on each shaft in the correct position. Hope that makes sense.
I found that they weren't real straight either.
Jeff
I have a few but have not tried them. It would seem that the spine was definately different with some of your shafts. Perhaps they weren't matched properly or some got mixed up.
Being the hex ones you would think that they would spine even around the shaft but maybe they are weaker (bend more) in different places. If this was the case they would have to be marked where they were spined so as to be able to put the nocks on each shaft in the correct position. Hope that makes sense.
I found that they weren't real straight either.
Jeff
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Glenn Newell
Hello Basalt Bill,
Dr. Ashby tends to favor the Grizzly and has turned me into a fan of this head also.
While he has patiently shown me how to sharpen them for myself I figured I'd let the man himself tell you his methods....
I've pasted this from notes we've kept when he's answered on other web sites....
Quotes Dr. Ed...
"I've probably sharpened more Grizzlies than most folks - and have killed more game with it than most too.
I'll be interested in how it fares in the 'new study', up against the newest stuff on the market. Regardless, it's one of the all-time greats in broadheads. "
"It took me years to figure out the best way to sharpen them. Now, I can go from a 'new' head to one I'm ready to hunt with in about two minutes - and can re-sharpen them in seconds! "
"Having just measured the angle on 33 of mine, I can tell you that I sharpen them at from 26 to 29 degrees on the single bevel. That's a "total edge angle", so it's equivelent to sharpening a double bevel at from 13 to 14.5 degrees on each side! Most other heads I've tried with that thin an edge will end up will a 'turned edge' if they hit a bone, especially at an oblique angle."
"Sharpening: The greatest discovery was the use of an auto body metal work rasp for the initial sharpening. It is mounted on a block of wood, which helps hold the angle right by letting the finger drag on the wood.
I pull the head towards me along the rasp. In about two minutes I can change the edge from the factory 40 degree angle to the one I like. By then there will be a burr. I flip the head over and, keeping it against the 'flat side', and using light pressure, remove the burr. From there I have the choice of going serrated or shaving. "
"Right off the rasp it is pretty sharp. A few strokes on a stone and then a hard stone, and it shaves. I actually prefer the serration. To put it on, right off the rasp, I use an "Abe's Own" file and the Hill technique. After adding the serrations, I go back to the RASP and, using very light pressure, reduce the serrations until they are VERY FINE. This is about the deadliest head I have used. All I can say is that it has a 100% kill on everything I've hit with it for over two decades now - and that ain't too shabby! (Albet, all with heavy arrows and high impact momentum.)"
"If one wants to buy one of the auto rasp, already set up, they are available from: Dave Pender, at: Razor Edge, 24 Kenneth Street, Morayfield, Qld. 4506, Australia.
If one wants to make their own, GET A GOOD RASP. Not all are equal! Works great on other broadheads too!
Ed "
also.... (he tends to nag me about the importance of the 'angle', so while the first part below is a repeat of above....I'll let you be nagged too!
)
"I sharpen at between 26 and 29 degrees on the single bevel. With the 'zero angle' on the other side, this gives a sharpening angle equal to a double edged head sharpened at from 13 to 14.5 degrees.
Right off the rasp, the head is pretty sharp. If you want a shaving edge, a few strokes on a medium and then fine diamond stone (or Arkansas stones) will bring the edge right up. I perfer a fine serrated edge. From the rasp I add the serrations, Howard Hill style, with a very fine tooth file, then finish off with some VERY LIGHT PRESSURE strokes on the rasp.
I also sharpen the tip to a cut on impact, adding the bevel on the opposite edge from the blade's bevel."
this is a BIG NAG!!.....though I have to admit that the work involved in preparation is paid for in results. 
.....and so ends the lesson from the doc (if you'd like more info, let me know and when he gets back from the north - end of Oct - I'll get HIM to explain his reasoning for you.
Hope this is of some help to you. Have to admit I had the hardest time understanding and practicing the 'angles' - can do it now.....
when I asked him the first time why I shouldn't just sharpen both sides the way I do other broadheads he explained that I'd risk sharpening into the (brazed??) section.
There is probably a better explanation (that he could give if here) but I can say this.....
here in my office I have a few dozen arrows that were once used with his bow "Lady" (can't remember the poundage of her - over 100# for sure).
Anyway.....the grizz's on them have been re-used many times (on BIG African game) and are now 2.5cm across the base and a full 8cm along each edge (just went a measured a few for you
) - and they're still in excellent condition! - these are all the 190gr grizz by the way.
Cher
Dr. Ashby tends to favor the Grizzly and has turned me into a fan of this head also.
While he has patiently shown me how to sharpen them for myself I figured I'd let the man himself tell you his methods....
I've pasted this from notes we've kept when he's answered on other web sites....
Quotes Dr. Ed...
"I've probably sharpened more Grizzlies than most folks - and have killed more game with it than most too.
I'll be interested in how it fares in the 'new study', up against the newest stuff on the market. Regardless, it's one of the all-time greats in broadheads. "
"It took me years to figure out the best way to sharpen them. Now, I can go from a 'new' head to one I'm ready to hunt with in about two minutes - and can re-sharpen them in seconds! "
"Having just measured the angle on 33 of mine, I can tell you that I sharpen them at from 26 to 29 degrees on the single bevel. That's a "total edge angle", so it's equivelent to sharpening a double bevel at from 13 to 14.5 degrees on each side! Most other heads I've tried with that thin an edge will end up will a 'turned edge' if they hit a bone, especially at an oblique angle."
"Sharpening: The greatest discovery was the use of an auto body metal work rasp for the initial sharpening. It is mounted on a block of wood, which helps hold the angle right by letting the finger drag on the wood.
I pull the head towards me along the rasp. In about two minutes I can change the edge from the factory 40 degree angle to the one I like. By then there will be a burr. I flip the head over and, keeping it against the 'flat side', and using light pressure, remove the burr. From there I have the choice of going serrated or shaving. "
"Right off the rasp it is pretty sharp. A few strokes on a stone and then a hard stone, and it shaves. I actually prefer the serration. To put it on, right off the rasp, I use an "Abe's Own" file and the Hill technique. After adding the serrations, I go back to the RASP and, using very light pressure, reduce the serrations until they are VERY FINE. This is about the deadliest head I have used. All I can say is that it has a 100% kill on everything I've hit with it for over two decades now - and that ain't too shabby! (Albet, all with heavy arrows and high impact momentum.)"
"If one wants to buy one of the auto rasp, already set up, they are available from: Dave Pender, at: Razor Edge, 24 Kenneth Street, Morayfield, Qld. 4506, Australia.
If one wants to make their own, GET A GOOD RASP. Not all are equal! Works great on other broadheads too!
Ed "
also.... (he tends to nag me about the importance of the 'angle', so while the first part below is a repeat of above....I'll let you be nagged too!
)"I sharpen at between 26 and 29 degrees on the single bevel. With the 'zero angle' on the other side, this gives a sharpening angle equal to a double edged head sharpened at from 13 to 14.5 degrees.
Right off the rasp, the head is pretty sharp. If you want a shaving edge, a few strokes on a medium and then fine diamond stone (or Arkansas stones) will bring the edge right up. I perfer a fine serrated edge. From the rasp I add the serrations, Howard Hill style, with a very fine tooth file, then finish off with some VERY LIGHT PRESSURE strokes on the rasp.
I also sharpen the tip to a cut on impact, adding the bevel on the opposite edge from the blade's bevel."
this is a BIG NAG!!.....though I have to admit that the work involved in preparation is paid for in results. .....and so ends the lesson from the doc (if you'd like more info, let me know and when he gets back from the north - end of Oct - I'll get HIM to explain his reasoning for you.
Hope this is of some help to you. Have to admit I had the hardest time understanding and practicing the 'angles' - can do it now.....
when I asked him the first time why I shouldn't just sharpen both sides the way I do other broadheads he explained that I'd risk sharpening into the (brazed??) section.
There is probably a better explanation (that he could give if here) but I can say this.....
here in my office I have a few dozen arrows that were once used with his bow "Lady" (can't remember the poundage of her - over 100# for sure).
Anyway.....the grizz's on them have been re-used many times (on BIG African game) and are now 2.5cm across the base and a full 8cm along each edge (just went a measured a few for you
) - and they're still in excellent condition! - these are all the 190gr grizz by the way.Cher
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Jackrat
Great post Cher, thanks!
BTW, i second the vote for Dave Pender's Razor Edge: even a fool like me can get a sharp head with one of them!
Erron
- YES PLEASE.....and so ends the lesson from the doc (if you'd like more info, let me know and when he gets back from the north - end of Oct - I'll get HIM to explain his reasoning for you.
BTW, i second the vote for Dave Pender's Razor Edge: even a fool like me can get a sharp head with one of them!
Erron
Sharpening Grizzly heads
Hi folks, Just retuned from the Basalt and two weeks of guiding. The guys did good and nailed some excellent boars the biggest going around 33pts. I managed to put a Grizzly to the test on the end of an arrow Dave Pender made for me and out of my newly aquired 70lb Newell bow, [ you'll wish you never parted with that bow Dave] that boar was down in less then 20metres.
Thanks for all the info on sharpening the Grizzlys I've just put it to good use and now have no hair left on both legs. I must say I'm really impressed with the Grizzly heads. Dr Ed Ashby must have more bowhunting big game experience then anyone I've meet or read about so if he reckons they're good that 'll do me! Has the Doc ever written a book on his hunting career if so I'd like to know where I could buy one.
Thanks again folks.
Thanks for all the info on sharpening the Grizzlys I've just put it to good use and now have no hair left on both legs. I must say I'm really impressed with the Grizzly heads. Dr Ed Ashby must have more bowhunting big game experience then anyone I've meet or read about so if he reckons they're good that 'll do me! Has the Doc ever written a book on his hunting career if so I'd like to know where I could buy one.
Thanks again folks.
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Stickbow Hunter
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