Painted Shafts: is Penetration an Issue?

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erron · #1 Post by **erron** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 9:26 am

Just a note regarding arrow finishes: I have a few that are painted, whereas most are stained and varnished. The painted ones don't penetrate a target anywhere near as well as the others. Does this have implications for penetration on game?

Erron

#2 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 5:33 pm

I don't see that it should. The paint may be a different type to the varish and is melting because of the friction when going into the target - hence hindering the penetration.

On game it is different because the arrow is going into soft tissue which has moisture and blood which lubricates the arrow.

I put a little vaseline on the broadhead and a little way up the arrow. This not only helps keep the broadhead sharp but lubricates the arrow as well.

Jeff

MIK · #3 Post by **MIK** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 5:59 pm

have you tried varnishing the painted shaft ... that should give the same finish as the stained ones

worth a try maybe

MIK

erron · #4 Post by **erron** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 7:22 pm

Yes Jeff, that's what i was thinking, about the softer tissue and blood lubricating things.

MIK, yes, I think that's what i'll do next time. It should do the trick.

One thing: the paint really ups the weight of the arrow

Erron

Glenn Newell · #5 Post by **Glenn Newell** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 9:15 pm

Erron I always clear finish the paint on my shafts. Paint does add a lot of weight, I normally rub paint on a shaft with a rag which lets you see the grain it almost looks like a stain...Glenn...

erron · #6 Post by **erron** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 9:41 pm

Yeah, thanks guys, good advice: I'll go with the paint applied with a rag as Glenn suggested, and varnish like MIK said, as paint really does pile on the weight!

Erron

Butch Speer · #7 Post by **Butch Speer** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 12:02 am

Met a fellow that owns an archery shop in Germany. He uses paste wax on his arrows after the stain & finish. It sure worked good on the targets.

I also know a knife maker that uses paste wax on his blades. Seems like it's almost impossible for them to rust.

Might be a good combo for the hunting arrows.

Basalt · #8 Post by **Basalt** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 6:52 am

Howd'y Erron, just thought i'd let you know what I do with my woods. First i paint the top third with "Quick Dry" white in a spray-can and this works out fairly light. After this dries i give the shaft a light sand and spray the whole shaft with "Estapol" in a srpay-can, let it dry and give it a light sand.
After i've made the arrow up i paint the small area around the nock and head with nail polish[my wifes that is] and that makes sure the whole arrow is sealed. Once I've tested the arrow and have the head SHAVING-Sharp I coat the head and arrow to the fletchers in " Lanogaurd 3000 " I found it to be a good lubricant and it also forms a light seal over the finished edge. [ hell, 2 million sheep can't be wrong ] I've found that having the top third painted white makes it easier for this blind old fella to see just where that arrow has gone and also when the critter turns I can easily judge just how much penetration I got. Like Jeff, I still like a little "Vas" on the business end just before it goes in the quiver.

erron · #9 Post by **erron** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 9:58 am

Thanks for that Basalt, the penny finally dropped for me on your handle!

Seems there's more to arrows than I'd thought, after they've been prepared up to the field stage.

Good advice all, thanks again!

Erron

MarkP · #10 Post by **MarkP** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 7:44 pm

Erron

A further trick I use is to weigh all shafts after the application of 3 light coats of clear. I then continue with further clear coats to build up weight by a couple of grains each time on the lighter arrows. Assuming there aren't huge weight differences between your shafts to start with you can get all shafts to weigh exactly the same by varying the number of clear coat applications.

I like a product called Cabots CrystalClear. It has non yellowing qualities that most standard clear finishes don't have. I've been using it for about a year on both arrows and bow risers and I'm very happy with the results - absolutely no yellowing.

Cheers
Mark

MIK · #11 Post by **MIK** » Wed Sep 17, 2003 10:31 pm

i know you guys with your vas are relating to hunting however this may work for you as well

i have been having trouble with the paper from targets sticking to my shafts and 3D targets are also very hard to get the arrows out of

i found this shoe shine pad and it works really well ... its a sponge that is inpregnated with what i would assume is a silicon based substance

arrows come out of 3ds easy and i have had no problems with the paper sticking to the arrows either

made by Wapro i think and they are just called Quick Shine ... works well on shoes you dont really want to polish as well

MIK

erron · #12 Post by **erron** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 9:54 am

Mark,

I've used the Cabots CrystalClear in the past and it sure is good! I am using Wattle Estapol Exterior at the moment, as it's a little cheaper, and it also does a great job. Neat idea about getting the weight of the arrows similar, thanks!

MIK, another good tip for me to try out, with the Wapro Quick Shine, thanks also. Boy, I ought to line those vendors up for some sponsorship of Ozbow

This thread has amazed me, with all the great advice and tips. Just goes to show how much knowledge there is out there...

Thanks all,

Erron

BTW Griffo, you had to ask?

Glenn Newell · #13 Post by **Glenn Newell** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 9:42 pm

Erron the estapol is turps based and the crystal clear is water based. As the water evaporates from the Crystal Clear the finish will become thinner and stronger. Water based is normally stronger and better wareing than turps based.
I am going to try Mik's idea about the silicone wax...Glenn...

erron · #14 Post by **erron** » Thu Sep 18, 2003 9:52 pm

Aha, that may account for the price difference then? The old story: you get what you pay for. Thanks, I'll get the Cabots next time.

I am going to try Mik's idea about the silicone wax

Me too, i already have some of that stuff!

Erron

Dennis La Varenne · #15 Post by **Dennis La Varenne** » Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:59 pm

To all -

Any paint on arrows seems to reduce penetration on inanimate materials, but has no measurable effect on critters.

Howeve, don't be put off using painted arrows for hunting just because they jam up in dense foam or pressed paper or cardboard. It is irrelevant for hunting.

All the various kinds of slippery stuff mentioned above are good, but critters are bags of water mostly. It isn't the same as target butt materials. Other things like those I mentioned in the post on arrow flight qualities and attention to broadheads are far more important.

Also, arrows are slicing/cutting projectiles and not crushing projectiles like some of the tungsten brigade seem to think.

They should stick to bullets and do the job properly using something designed to work that way rather than try to turn arrows into second rate bullets.

Dennis La Varenne

doninkaliphornistan · #16 Post by **doninkaliphornistan** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 8:22 am

i normally use varathane or minwax to finish my wooden aeros and give them a coating with johnsons paste wax ... it makes them as slick as a greased, glass doorknob ...

#17 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 10:01 am

G'day Don,

... it makes them as slick as a greased, glass doorknob ...

So your kids don't knock before enterin' huh?

Jeff

Ozbow

Painted Shafts: is Penetration an Issue?

Painted Shafts: is Penetration an Issue?

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