Quivers

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kodiak · #31 Post by **kodiak** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:29 am

check out the quivers @ alaskabowhunting.com they could be just what you need!

Mick Smith · #32 Post by **Mick Smith** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:27 pm

There was a certain fellow at the Ozbow High Country hunt using a "plains indian'' back quiver. I had seen quivers of this type advertised at various web sites in the past, but I had never really given them any consideration. I just thought they were a slightly different style of back quiver without anything to offer that the usual type of back quiver already offered. I was wrong.

I'm very impressed with these plains indian type of back quivers now. In fact they offer much more than any traditional back quiver, IMO. For a start they can be worn in many different ways. To me, the most practical way of wearing one is to have the rear of the arrows facing forwards and the quiver in an almost horizontal position. This allows very easy and quick access to your arrows. The quiver rides well through rough terrain in the position. You can wear the quiver the other way around with the rear of the arrows pointing backwards, however arrows aren't as easy to withdraw in this position. You could also wear the quiver in the same manner as a traditional backquiver.

Another interesting aspect of the quiver taken to the High Country hunt was the length of it. It was long enough to almost completely engulf the arrows. Only the arrow nocks being visible outside the opening. By having the arrows completely enclosed in this manner, the feathers are less likely to get wet. Yet another interesting aspect of having the arrows completely contained within the quiver is the lack of noise when moving around. Even though the fletching are rubbing against one another, there is little noise because they are held together and move together with the quiver, rather than rattleing around independently.

You would think the arrows would simply slip out of the quiver when the quiver was inclined slightly, however this is not the case as the fletching on the arrows actually seems to grip the inside of the quiver slightly, stopping the arrows from falling out even though the quiver is inclined with the opening facing towards the ground.

The quiver that I have described from the Ozbow hunt was beautifully made. It was hand made by the owner from a purchased kangaroo skin. The fur faced outwards. It had decorative suede leather fringing at the mouth of the quiver to enhance it's good looks. Overall it was an extremely good looking and very functional quiver. I'm quite impressed with it, as you may gather. In fact I plan to start making my own version shortly.

I don't have a photo of the quiver that I have described. I have a photo of a similar quiver taken from the Kustom King archery web site. The quiver in the photo is similar, but it doesn't have the overall length preferred in order to fully protect your fletching and to stop the arrows falling out if the quiver is slightly inclined downwards. The photo should give you some idea of what it looks like though.

Mick

erron · #33 Post by **erron** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:10 pm

Mick,

Thanks for the compliments, but they really are an easy quiver to make. Jeff StrubbergÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s pattern worked for me; check it out on our Lore & Legend pages.

They are the Plains Quiver (American Indian derived) design. They are actually meant to be worn as a side quiver, though I guess you could wear them as a back quiver if you wantedÃ¢â‚¬Â¦

I will try to post some pics when I get home.

Cheers,

Erron

Hood · #34 Post by **Hood** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 6:12 pm

Good read MickS

I just got hold of a second hand back quiver last week. It's nice 2.5mm thick black leather with a patch on it with the makers name on it "Autarky" products.
I havn't had a chance to try it out as yet but will over the weekend.

MickS my mother-in-law has a nice black and white calf skin that I'm gonna try and get off her and make one of those plains Indian quivers as I like the look and sound of them.

What was put into the bottom of it to stop the broadheads sticking through the bottom of it?

erron · #35 Post by **erron** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 6:45 pm

Some pics, one of my quiver and two of Jay Massey sporting his Plains Quiver from the Bowyer's Bible.

archangel · #36 Post by **archangel** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:40 pm

Erron, nice looking quiver. Your post encouraged me to look back at the Lore and Legend links, as well as The Bowyers Edge. I continue to be amazed at the ingenuity shown by people making their own equipment. This one with its two-shaft capacity is a neat solution for stalking with a minimum of tackle.

buzz · #37 Post by **buzz** » Fri Oct 07, 2005 10:16 pm

I'll post up pics this weekend of a side/back quiver I've knocked up based on the plains quiver design.

One perhaps silly question.... how do you sew the fur/pelts together but still leave the fur adjacent to the stiches looking good. I've been trying to sew fur to leather with thonging and it looks crap.

Mark

erron · #38 Post by **erron** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:13 pm

Mark,

1) I use waxed thread that I bought at a leather shop, suggest you only use thonging if you want it to show; it's for effect as much as binding.

2) I sow with the quiver turned inside out to begin with, then turn it right side out when i'm finished. That leaves a small ridge inside the quiver that hides the stitching. The stitching on the outside hardly shows (not at all on this quiver)

If that doesn't make sense I can scan and post pics from a book.

cheers,

Erron

buzz · #39 Post by **buzz** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:50 pm

Here are my first two efforts.

The top one is based on the plains design. I *should* have made the top higher and closer to the fletching, but my plan was to line it with fur and have a roll over top.... it has proved challenging trying to get the top to roll over smoothly. In retrospect I learnt a heap doing this first one, including how to get the thonging looking nice and even and that I should have had the strap on the other side of the main stitching to suit me asa left hander. Oh well! To keep the shape and protect the bottom there is a piece of 3 or 4mm thick rubber in there.

The pocket quiver is a little winner. I've been using it on the range and when doing some garage practice and it works really nicely.

I'd also like to try more embellishment of the leather by embossing or burning ~ anyone any good at it and got tips?

stace · #40 Post by **stace** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:18 pm

Mick S
Nice looking quiver there Mick
Youv'e been busy
I like the pocket quiver youv'e made mate ,Iv'e always been going to make one but have never gotten around to it ,
Well Done
Stace

Mick Smith · #41 Post by **Mick Smith** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:41 pm

Stace

I didn't make the quiver, mate. Buzz made it. I haven't made a quiver yet, but I do plan to one day.

Mick

buzz · #42 Post by **buzz** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 10:17 pm

stace wrote:Mick S
Nice looking quiver there Mick
Youv'e been busy
I like the pocket quiver youv'e made mate ,Iv'e always been going to make one but have never gotten around to it ,
Well Done
Stace

Thanks mate. I'll probably try another quiver this weekend and improve on the flaws.
I had seen a pocket quiver in a catalogue and thought it was a pretty dumb idea until I saw someone use one. They are really fast to use and great during practice, and they are dead easy to make.... its just a folded bit of leather stitched up. The leather thong external stitches keep it quite flat. I had thought of double lining the base, but as nothing is pushing down on them, it didn't seem need. Time will tell though... if they go out the bum of my jeans I need more lining

. Oh, of course it is only for field points! I didn't bother to add a belt clip or the like.

#43 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:09 am

Nice looking quiver there Mick

Gee Stace, looks like I'm not the only one old age is catchin up with!

Sorry mate, couldn't resist.

Jeff

stace · #44 Post by **stace** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 6:31 pm

YEAH JEFF
Too big a day again at work ,

Sorry BUZZ ,BUT it is impressive workmanship
I was reading Adams post on his rabbits with Clingish and was all hyped up on hunting and not paying attention
AND I am TOO old for work now (I keep telling the wife BUT she doesn't hear me ,WHY????)
cheers
stace

Mick Smith · #45 Post by **Mick Smith** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 6:40 pm

I hear ya Stace. I'm getting too old to drag my old hairy butt to work as well. I'd be happy enough to drag it around the rabbit warrens near home though.

Unfortunately, it appears that I am to be an economic slave for a few years yet.

That should make those pesky wrabbits happy!!

Mick

Mick Smith · #46 Post by **Mick Smith** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:19 pm

As you can probably tell, I'm pretty impressed with Erron's "Plains style" quiver, as photographed by Erron about 10 posts earlier than this one on this thread. It looks and works magnificantly. I'm very surprised they aren't more popular. Even the ones that you can buy brand new from places like Kustom King aren't made the way they should be, they're too short. The quiver needs to be as long as your arrows, minus only half an inch, just enough to leave your nocks sticking out.

I've been looking everywhere for a good cheap kangaroo skin to make my own "Plains" quiver. I've seen quite a few on ebay from time to time but they've been selling for around AU$75.00, which was a bit steep for my budget. I like the idea of using a grey forester kangaroo skin. I like the colour and I also like the unique Australian connection. Deer skin would look great, but I reckon the hair/fur isn't very durable.

Well, I'm happy to report I've finally found my kangaroo skin, well sort of anyway. I actually bought 5 kangaroo tails, just the tails, the skins have been tanned. They are remnants from a small Brisbane company that make kangaroo skin products. The tails are around 30 inches long. I paid AU$10.00 for them all.

I'll have to sew them together before I start, but that's no real bother.

I have printed up the plans for this style of quiver from our "Lore and Legions" forum and I'm ready to start once the tails arrive in the mail.

Would you believe, I was telling a work mate about all this, just today and he said, "I've got a good kangaroo skin at home. It's in the cupboard. Someone gave it to us as a wedding present, but we don't like it. You can have it if you like". Needless to say, I jumped at the chance. I've ended up swapping a movie DVD for it. Now I've gone from famine to feast.

I now plan to make two quivers, one plains style and one traditional single strap back quiver. They will both have lots of lace fringes and will have that wild and wooly look about them, I hope.

Hopefully, I'll have a digital camera very soon, so I'll be able to take some photos so you can see how it's all coming along.

Mick

danceswithdingoes · #47 Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 4:10 pm

I'll have to get motivated and take some pics of my old fox plains quiver, Mick have a look at the Bushmaster quiver at 3R, its a bit pricey but I have seen them at work and they are great (a very popular tree stand quiver too) the inner mechanism rotates so you can access a fresh arrow (like a gatling) no noise and no hangups.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.a ... p=0&i=5252

Mick Smith · #48 Post by **Mick Smith** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:10 pm

Dances

They aren't a bad quiver. I went hunting with a bloke who was using one, back in October. His summary of the quiver after the first couple of days was, "yeah, it's not bad, but it does make some noise when it's rubbed and banged against trees and branches".

Personally, I like my quivers a bit more natural looking and made of leather. I do like and use my Great Northern "Sidekick" a real lot. It's so practical and comfortable.

Mick

Mick Smith · #49 Post by **Mick Smith** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 8:15 pm

Now I've got plenty of kangaroo hide to make my plains quiver. I ended up with a red kangaroo skin from my work mate. It looks almost too pretty to turn into a quiver, but I will.

I've been checking out all the quivers on international ebay. I've got the quiver bug real bad at the moment. I came across this quiver (pictured below). It was for sale at US$79.00, which I suppose is alright, but I reckon it would be very easy to make. I'm going to have a go at making one of these for my son, Owen. He's been complaining that he doesn't like his Kwikee bowquiver, so I might make a smaller version of this one.

I'd start off with one of those big round cork stoppers that you can buy at craft shops. I'd like on about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and about 2 inches long. This would be for sticking the broadheads into instead of the usual foam. The diameter of the cork stopper would dictate the diameter of the quiver. Instead of using waxed thread to hold it all together like the one in the photo, I'd go for thick leather lacing. I'll made up a template to determine just how much leather I'll need, but I imagine, a rectangular piece 12 inches by 18 inches would do the job. It would need to be very heavy thick leather, I reckon.

These types of quiver are very popular in the US. I'd like to try one out myself.

Mick

dan76 · #50 Post by **dan76** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:48 pm

What sort of thickness leather would you use for a back quiver.
The most redilly available is between .6 and 1.5 mil but that seems a bit thin to me. I want to make a quiver that will colapse a bit to form to my back but i'm abit worried that extended use with broadheads will eventually cut through leather that is to thin.

Any ideas

would be very helpfull.

Dan

#51 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 2:21 pm

Dan,

I use 2.8 -3mm Bag leather. I think it is just right as it is very strong and safe with the use of broadheads and it still allows the quiver to collapse to keep your arras quiet.

Which Maryborough do you live in Qld or Vic?

Jeff

dan76 · #52 Post by **dan76** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:45 pm

QLD mate. I shoot out at the ABA on the way hervey bay.
Thanks for the info on the leather, by chance do you know of a local supplier at all.
Dan

#53 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:49 pm

Dan,

I'm right in town. If you want a yarn sometime give me a call on 4123 3439.

I get my leather from Packers Tannery on the north side of Brisbane. If you need contact details let me know and I will dig them up for you.

Jeff

dan76 · #54 Post by **dan76** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:57 pm

Thanks alot jeff i will. I just went out to keith for some shafts last week, nice guy, very helpfull he even tapered my shafts for me. He said i should talk to you about setting up my jig properly for helical flectching. And yes i am interested in the contact for leather, i am a bit loath to buy a whole skin, which is the only way i have seen it so far.
I live over in yulula( golf course).

#55 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:43 pm

Dan,

The contact details are:

Packer Leather
101 Boundary Road Narangba
Ph: 07 3203 1677

I have found them good to deal with. They sell in half hides but not sure if you can get smaller pieces. Half a hide would cost a LOT now days I'm sure.

I have a half down stairs which I bought a couple of years ago. That reminds me I have to make a quiver up for a mate.

Hope that helps. We will have to catch up when it suites and have a yarn abour bows, arras and leather.

Jeff

Jeff

dan76 · #56 Post by **dan76** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:45 pm

Thanks jeff i will get in touch with them, and post prices for anyone else that is interested.

Dan

dan76 · #57 Post by **dan76** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:11 pm

I rang them they have quit a range. There retail shop number is 32031323

Grade A bag leather is $106 per sq/m
other grades ,b,c Down to about $90

But the interesting one is the belly leather at 3mm thick, you get a whole belly for $44, the lady tells me they call it football leather, it is more supple than the upper hide and they vary in size but are roughly 5ft or so long by 12inches or so wide.

Dan

PS/ They are waiting on a new shipment right now.

#58 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:30 pm

Dan,

I would not recommend the belly leather for a quiver as it is too soft and usually has wrinkles in it. I usually don't use the belly leather. You are welcome to check the half hide I have if you want to see what it is like.

The staff there are very good to deal with and are very helpful.

Jeff

dan76 · #59 Post by **dan76** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:54 am

thanks for the advice jeff. Just have to save me pennys and buy some good stuff.

Mick Smith · #60 Post by **Mick Smith** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:54 pm

I was in the local archery shop yesterday. I wasn't there to buy a quiver, I was buying shafts primarily. While I was waiting to be served, I had a quick look at the quiver section.

I've been looking for a quiver for my son, Owen. I gave him my old back quiver as well as an old bow quiver I had, but he didn't particularly like either of them. He reckoned the backquiver made too much noise and he didn't like the bow quiver, a Kwikee Kwik, because he found it too difficult to replace arrows into it. It does have finicky clips. He wanted a side quiver like his old man uses. I use my Great Northern Sidekick almost exclusively nowdays.

Sitting on the wall of Bows Arrows and Bits, was a cheap looking bowquiver. It was a Bohning Jackpine 5 and it had $29 on it. I figured it wouldn't take much to turn it into a side quiver, just a couple of holes and a strap. I was going to make him an all leather side quiver, but the leather alone would cost far more than $29. After a few moments of thought, I bought the Bohning bowquiver.

When I got home, I hacksawed the bracket section off the stem, to leave it nice and clean. I then turned it into a cheap but effective sidequiver. Check out the photo.

BTW the photo is very ordinary. I must have moved when I took it. I went to take another, but the battery was flat. It will have to do.

Mick