Hi all,
i have a Wes Wallace mentor 57# @ 28" 62" long take down . I would like some advice regarding arrow shafts , preferable woods. but not opposed to alloys/carbons. shooting off the shelf so fletching with fleathers. thoughts?
matching arrows
Moderator: Moderators
Re: matching arrows
Welcome to Ozbow,
Were you looking at buying the components and making the arrows or buying pre made arrows?
Daryl.
Were you looking at buying the components and making the arrows or buying pre made arrows?
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: matching arrows
ive got a browning flecthing jig (red plastic one ) , so i can build my own. likely the best idea , i should shoot some bare shafts i guess. problem with that is im still fairly inconsistent with my grouping.
Re: matching arrows
Is it due to your lack of form or a bunch of crappy arrows?ddrage1 wrote:...... i should shoot some bare shafts i guess. problem with that is im still fairly inconsistent with my grouping.
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
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Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Re: matching arrows
First of all you will need to find out what spine shafts you will need. This will depend on your draw length, the draw weight of your bow and the weight of the point you intend to use. Check out the spine chart and calculator below to work out what spine shaft you need.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/spinecalculator.asp
https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf
Once you know what spine you want, it's time to find a supplier. The prices in the US are pretty attractive, but the postage totally negates any advantage in burying from overseas. You can buy sets of timber shafts that are matched in both spine and weight, right here in Australia.
John McDonald AMSO archery supplies based in Sydney
Mark Harvey Trad Bits, which is based in Queensland
Both of the above Australian suppliers will be happy to help you out.
Once you've sourced your shafts, you will need to buy fletches and nocks and points, as well as some glue. If you go with wood shafts, you will have to seal them from the elements with a clear lacquer. I use polyurethane. Then it's just a matter of putting them all together and shooting them.
And yes, some bare shaft tuning would be a good idea.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/spinecalculator.asp
https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf
Once you know what spine you want, it's time to find a supplier. The prices in the US are pretty attractive, but the postage totally negates any advantage in burying from overseas. You can buy sets of timber shafts that are matched in both spine and weight, right here in Australia.
John McDonald AMSO archery supplies based in Sydney
Mark Harvey Trad Bits, which is based in Queensland
Both of the above Australian suppliers will be happy to help you out.
Once you've sourced your shafts, you will need to buy fletches and nocks and points, as well as some glue. If you go with wood shafts, you will have to seal them from the elements with a clear lacquer. I use polyurethane. Then it's just a matter of putting them all together and shooting them.
And yes, some bare shaft tuning would be a good idea.
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
Re: matching arrows
thankyou for your replies
form or crappy arrows? only time will tell i guess! LOL
form or crappy arrows? only time will tell i guess! LOL
Re: matching arrows
I'll add a bit more of a starting point.
If you want good arrows (and why wouldn't you?), grab some of the hand-spined, hand-weighed Port Orford Cedar shafts from Kustom King.
For a 57lb recurve like your Wes Wallace, you probably want shafts spined at least 5-10lb over the bows' draw weight at your draw length (although you can go a little higher in spine weight generally, just don't go lower). So if you draw 28 inches, go for something like 65-70lb spined shafts. If you draw over 28 inches, add 5lb in arrow spine for avery inch over 28. Reverse that if draw under 28 inches.
Kustom King archery supplies in the US (and some others) will also let you specify what grain weight range you require within 10 grains i.e. 380-390 grains, for instance. This will be for an uncut 32 inch shaft. So, if you know what point weight you're using, you can roughly work out what weight shafts you'll need up front to end up with finished arrows of the desired weight - which, if you stick with the rough 10 grains per pound of draw weight guide, would be around 570 grains (maybe more if you're hunting) for a 57lb bow @ 28. To give you a better idea, most of my bows are around 55lb and I draw 28.5. Using 125 grain points, and to end up with roughly 550 grain finished arrows (for field, 3D shooting etc), I start with shafts of about 400 grains.
Hope that helps.
If you want good arrows (and why wouldn't you?), grab some of the hand-spined, hand-weighed Port Orford Cedar shafts from Kustom King.
For a 57lb recurve like your Wes Wallace, you probably want shafts spined at least 5-10lb over the bows' draw weight at your draw length (although you can go a little higher in spine weight generally, just don't go lower). So if you draw 28 inches, go for something like 65-70lb spined shafts. If you draw over 28 inches, add 5lb in arrow spine for avery inch over 28. Reverse that if draw under 28 inches.
Kustom King archery supplies in the US (and some others) will also let you specify what grain weight range you require within 10 grains i.e. 380-390 grains, for instance. This will be for an uncut 32 inch shaft. So, if you know what point weight you're using, you can roughly work out what weight shafts you'll need up front to end up with finished arrows of the desired weight - which, if you stick with the rough 10 grains per pound of draw weight guide, would be around 570 grains (maybe more if you're hunting) for a 57lb bow @ 28. To give you a better idea, most of my bows are around 55lb and I draw 28.5. Using 125 grain points, and to end up with roughly 550 grain finished arrows (for field, 3D shooting etc), I start with shafts of about 400 grains.
Hope that helps.
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Mick Smith
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Re: matching arrows
Another excellent source of local shafts and timber arrows can be found here ...
http://www.swallace.spiderweb.com.au/arrows.htm
http://www.swallace.spiderweb.com.au/arrows.htm
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
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little arrows
- Posts: 2856
- Joined: Sun Feb 29, 2004 2:14 pm
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
Re: matching arrows
thanks Mick - the new website is www.wallacetradwoods.com which also includes Trad shoot information and flyers along with all our goodies. 
cheers
sue
cheers
sue