When I have finished my flash new arrows I would like to put Tusker concorde Broadheads on them.Up til now I have always used a 125g broadhead an the concorde is 155g.Can I do this and tune the bow to shoot them,Or am I going to have problems.
Thanks,,Jack.
Tusker concordes
Moderator: Moderators
G'day Jackrat
you'll need to supply a tad more info lad.
What type of bow you use,
poundage, draw length, is it centre shot?,
what are these you-beaut arrows you're setting up and what's their spine and finished length?
Concords are pretty good broadheads and fly well, still....need the above info to be of any real help.
Cher
you'll need to supply a tad more info lad.
What type of bow you use,
poundage, draw length, is it centre shot?,
what are these you-beaut arrows you're setting up and what's their spine and finished length?
Concords are pretty good broadheads and fly well, still....need the above info to be of any real help.
Cher
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Stickbow Hunter
- Supporter
- Posts: 11637
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:33 pm
- Location: Maryborough Queensland
Jack,
IMO I think you will be able to shoot them OK. As you have pointed out, at 155 gr they 30 gr heavier than you usually shoot. However I have found it best to nip the point off of them or the point tends to curl if it hits something a bit hard. If this is done and the head sharpend it will probably only be 25 gr heavier at max. I don't think this will effect the spine of the arrow so much that you will have trouble with arrow flight. Saying this, if your arrows are border line now (light spine) you may need a stiffer spine with the heavier head.
One more thing - if you have trouble getting the broadhead to spin true check that the ferrule is in line with the head. Over the years I have found this to be a problem with these heads.
All the best. Jeff
IMO I think you will be able to shoot them OK. As you have pointed out, at 155 gr they 30 gr heavier than you usually shoot. However I have found it best to nip the point off of them or the point tends to curl if it hits something a bit hard. If this is done and the head sharpend it will probably only be 25 gr heavier at max. I don't think this will effect the spine of the arrow so much that you will have trouble with arrow flight. Saying this, if your arrows are border line now (light spine) you may need a stiffer spine with the heavier head.
One more thing - if you have trouble getting the broadhead to spin true check that the ferrule is in line with the head. Over the years I have found this to be a problem with these heads.
All the best. Jeff
Jackrat,
You can find really good info on bow/arrow tuning at O. L. Adcock's web page:
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
It a very good starting point.
You can find really good info on bow/arrow tuning at O. L. Adcock's web page:
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
It a very good starting point.
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Jackrat
Ok here we go,
Bow 45lb at 28 but I over draw by one inch some times.Not good I know but when I can get close I kind of give it a bit extra.I call it free style as
sometimes I don,t make 28 ether.
Arrow 29 inch Probably 50lb spine.This is for the extra broadhead wght.
Three five inch feathers,Rear tapered shaft.
I have only made arrows once before,I wasn,t very happy with the results,so have stuck with Alloy and carbon since.Now that I am shooting only longbows an nothing else I think I really should shoot wood arrows.
Having this site makes all the difference.
Thanks all,,Jack.
PS,I was going to double taper but I might of been pushing my luck.
Next time hey..
Bow 45lb at 28 but I over draw by one inch some times.Not good I know but when I can get close I kind of give it a bit extra.I call it free style as
sometimes I don,t make 28 ether.
Arrow 29 inch Probably 50lb spine.This is for the extra broadhead wght.
Three five inch feathers,Rear tapered shaft.
I have only made arrows once before,I wasn,t very happy with the results,so have stuck with Alloy and carbon since.Now that I am shooting only longbows an nothing else I think I really should shoot wood arrows.
Having this site makes all the difference.
Thanks all,,Jack.
PS,I was going to double taper but I might of been pushing my luck.
Next time hey..
Tusker Concords
Hi Jackrat
For your bow poundage and shaft size the Concorde is a good head, it will give you maxium penatration and good arrow flight.
It will pay to chisle the tip about 2-3 mm this will add strength if encountering bone.You won't have any trouble with the ferules I sorted that problem out when I started to produce the heads,But it used to a problem with them in years gone by.
But one of the most important things to do when fixing any head is to spin test.
Hope this helps you out and good hunting.
For your bow poundage and shaft size the Concorde is a good head, it will give you maxium penatration and good arrow flight.
It will pay to chisle the tip about 2-3 mm this will add strength if encountering bone.You won't have any trouble with the ferules I sorted that problem out when I started to produce the heads,But it used to a problem with them in years gone by.
But one of the most important things to do when fixing any head is to spin test.
Hope this helps you out and good hunting.
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Jackrat
Thanks all,I think it,s all going to come togeather as planned.
I had no worries about useing Tusker as I have used The 125g for years.
I want the Concorde for its shape as I am a Howard Hill fan from way back,Plus the little bit of extra weight.
Having used a number of different two blade heads I have found a couple were the ferrel was a real problem, but never with Tuskers.I even had a couple of young guys poke the stick at me for useing cheap heads, or so they called them,when I was in Sydney.
Poor fools,more money than brains.
Thanks again all,,Jack.
I had no worries about useing Tusker as I have used The 125g for years.
I want the Concorde for its shape as I am a Howard Hill fan from way back,Plus the little bit of extra weight.
Having used a number of different two blade heads I have found a couple were the ferrel was a real problem, but never with Tuskers.I even had a couple of young guys poke the stick at me for useing cheap heads, or so they called them,when I was in Sydney.
Poor fools,more money than brains.
Thanks again all,,Jack.
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Dennis La Varenne
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 10:56 pm
- Location: Tocumwal, NSW. Australia
Jackrat,
These posts advising on your arrow/head combination are pretty much correct. Stickbowhunter and I used to judge the arrow making and craftsmanship awards at the Maryborough Longbow Muster for years and after some research, we devised a set of 9 criteria, 5 of which guaranteed arrows which would fly true. These were -
shaft straightness;
point alignment with the shaft;
nock alignment with the shaft;
correct/matching spine; and
correct balance.
So, the one additional thing to have a look at is the balance point of the arrow which should be between 7 and 10% ahead of the exact middle of the finished arrow.
Heavier heads will need slightly heavier shafts to balance and to maintain spine. A heavier head effectively reduces the dynamic spine of a shaft by increasing the inertia of the shaft so that the thrust via the string against the nock bends/bows the shaft more against the inertia of the head end as it launches from the bow.
If you are using older shafts which flew well with 125gn heads, there may be some slightly erratic flight with the heavier heads, depending upon how much resilience remains in the shaft after being shot many times.
Dennis La Varenne
These posts advising on your arrow/head combination are pretty much correct. Stickbowhunter and I used to judge the arrow making and craftsmanship awards at the Maryborough Longbow Muster for years and after some research, we devised a set of 9 criteria, 5 of which guaranteed arrows which would fly true. These were -
shaft straightness;
point alignment with the shaft;
nock alignment with the shaft;
correct/matching spine; and
correct balance.
So, the one additional thing to have a look at is the balance point of the arrow which should be between 7 and 10% ahead of the exact middle of the finished arrow.
Heavier heads will need slightly heavier shafts to balance and to maintain spine. A heavier head effectively reduces the dynamic spine of a shaft by increasing the inertia of the shaft so that the thrust via the string against the nock bends/bows the shaft more against the inertia of the head end as it launches from the bow.
If you are using older shafts which flew well with 125gn heads, there may be some slightly erratic flight with the heavier heads, depending upon how much resilience remains in the shaft after being shot many times.
Dennis La Varenne
-
Dennis La Varenne
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 10:56 pm
- Location: Tocumwal, NSW. Australia
Jackrat,
In addition to the above, by way of further explanation about the reduction in dynamic spine, you can actually break an arrow by putting an excessively heavy weight on the head of an arrow. I have done it for an experiment. You can try it using a lump of lead as a head if you like but put on some safety glasses.
What happens is that the back end of the arrow begins moving well before the front end with the result that the arrow buckles and explodes even if its static spine is correct for that bow.
Obviously, the normal range of arrowheads is not heavy enough to cause this kind of damage, but the principle still applies, and perhaps explains some problems with arrows whose spine and mass are marginal to the bow's draw weight when heavier than normal heads are added later.
Stickbowhunter and I have always been able to obviate any problems of erratic flight using significantly overspined and overweight arrows with big feathers shot from canted bows, so long as the above 5 flight criteria were met.
Dennis La Varenne
In addition to the above, by way of further explanation about the reduction in dynamic spine, you can actually break an arrow by putting an excessively heavy weight on the head of an arrow. I have done it for an experiment. You can try it using a lump of lead as a head if you like but put on some safety glasses.
What happens is that the back end of the arrow begins moving well before the front end with the result that the arrow buckles and explodes even if its static spine is correct for that bow.
Obviously, the normal range of arrowheads is not heavy enough to cause this kind of damage, but the principle still applies, and perhaps explains some problems with arrows whose spine and mass are marginal to the bow's draw weight when heavier than normal heads are added later.
Stickbowhunter and I have always been able to obviate any problems of erratic flight using significantly overspined and overweight arrows with big feathers shot from canted bows, so long as the above 5 flight criteria were met.
Dennis La Varenne
- once I got my head around that paragraph, I realized it was the most concise rendering of the concept of dynamic spine I'd perused.Heavier heads will need slightly heavier shafts to balance and to maintain spine. A heavier head effectively reduces the dynamic spine of a shaft by increasing the inertia of the shaft so that the thrust via the string against the nock bends/bows the shaft more against the inertia of the head end as it launches from the bow.
- God, I'm starting to talk like Dennis!
Seriously Dennis, great definition, and it made it clear for me. Thanks,
Erron