Old bows

Where to source materials etc. Also the place to show off your new bow or quiver etc.... Making things belongs in Traditional Crafts.

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Stickbow Hunter
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Old bows

#1 Post by Stickbow Hunter » Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:50 pm

On our recent caravanning trip Jude and I spent Easter with our very good friend Dennis La Varenne. We sure spent some time talking about and shooting bows and arrows.

Dennis had bought four old Osage Orange self bows from the USA and had only shot one one of them as he was unable to string the others due to their high draw weights. So we set about stringing each of the bows and weighing them. The light one was around 50# @ 28”. Two were around the 70# @ 28” mark and the other was 83# @ 28”. I drew each of the bows but was only drawing about 26”. Those weights are a bit heavy for me these days.

I managed a few shots with the 83 pounder but I was way over bowed. I did however spend some time shooting one of the 70 pounders (the non sinew backed one) and it shot very nicely indeed. It spat my 725 grain arrows out extremely well. I must say I got a real buzz from shooting these 70 plus year old bows.

They were flat bows with one being a semi recurve. They were made in the 1930‘s - early 1940‘s. Three of the bows were 60” long with the sinew backed one being 66” in length. The widest bow was 2” in width.

They were very well crafted and in fact the craftsmanship was some of the finest I have seen. The maker followed a growth ring on the backs of the bows to a degree I have not seen before. He followed it with such detail the backs of the bows were actually concave in places. Also on one of the bows there were two knots placed very close together but rather than treat them as a single knot he ensured they remained individuals by leaving extra wood around each one.

What really struck me about these old bows was their tiller. IMO it was exceptional with the limbs having a really beautiful bend. All of the strain was being equally distributed over the length of the limbs.

I particularly liked the shape of the 71# bow that I shot. The way the limbs flared out from the handle just looked good to me.

Anyway I thought some of you might enjoy seeing some photos of these beautiful old bows.

Jeff
Beautiful old bows
Beautiful old bows
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Fine craftsmanship
Fine craftsmanship
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Me shooting the 71# bow
Me shooting the 71# bow
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Dennis shooting the 50# semi-recurve
Dennis shooting the 50# semi-recurve
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Re: Old bows

#2 Post by greybeard » Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:29 pm

Jeff, thank you for the photographs.

Do you know if they are in original condition or have been refurbished? The tiller of the bow at brace height and at full draw looks excellent.

I think I would be a little apprehensive drawing bows of that age.

Daryl.
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Re: Old bows

#3 Post by littlejohn59 » Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:54 pm

Great photos Great Bows. Thanks for the pictures!

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Re: Old bows

#4 Post by Bill » Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:46 pm

:smile: Jeff, as you said great workmanship and great looking.
I like the look of the bow laying across on top and the light coloured one under it in the first picture.
I just can't get myself around handling and shooting the wide paddle stick bows.
I see Dennis watching and looking at the way your handling and shooting the bow, bows, I assume you had several shots from all of them.
Great pictures from the camera person.
thanks for sharing.. 8)

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Re: Old bows

#5 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:22 am

Bill,

The wide bow is not a 'paddle' bow. It is a wide flatbow. Paddle bows are widest around halfway out along the limb similar to that used by the Andaman Islanders where the appellation originated.

The other 3 bows are somewhat closer in shape to a 'paddle' bow design, but their widest part or 'flares' are about 1/4 out along the limb from the handle.

All four bows were made by a bloke by name of Morgan, but I have not been able to find out where he came from other than to say that the eBay seller's father once owned an archery dealership on the US West Coast and this bloke Morgan sold him over 40 of his bows for a high grade O/U shotgun.

All four bows are classical flatbows from the third and fourth decades of the 20th century. The widest bow epitomises a Hickman-Klopsteg bow from the late 1930s. The other three are more like the designs from the Forrest Nagler school, albeit, the position of the flares is much further out along the limb than the designs from the above three bowmaking pioneers.

Daryl,

All the old bows I have, including these four, are shootable. I use the same criteria for assessing damage that I would use for any more recently made bow. There is absolutely no reason for not using them other than obvious damage.

They don't deteriorate with age as seems to be a common misconception.

I have over 100 of them and perhaps close to 150 now. All of them are shootable. If they are suspect in any way, meaning they have obvious fatal damage which is not repairable, they are junked as I would with a recent built bow. Those too heavy for me to draw are easily assessed on a tiller the same way I would for a modern bow.

A good few of them which have laminated parts such as backing and riser blocks are easily popped off, cleaned and reglued and usable again. It is common with the old Ben Pearson bows. There seems to be a common and unwarranted and unreasonable fear of shooting old bows that has never made sense to me. Nobody has ever been able to explain why in any rational way other than an unprovable assertion that old equals frail.

I would recommend that you always test any old bow in exactly the same way that you do with a modern made bow. If it is going to fail, then let it. A bow not usable is another name for firewood. I don't keep firewood.
Dennis La Varénne

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Re: Old bows

#6 Post by Gringa Bows » Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:20 am

Great looking old bows mate.... :wink:

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Re: Old bows

#7 Post by bigbob » Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:38 am

Deceptively simple but highly attractive in appearance, and obviously terrific working bows.Thanks for posting.
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Re: Old bows

#8 Post by rodlonq » Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:39 am

Dennis La Varenne wrote: I would recommend that you always test any old bow in exactly the same way that you do with a modern made bow. If it is going to fail, then let it. A bow not usable is another name for firewood. I don't keep firewood.
Hello Dennis,

That is an interesting thought, however there must be a point where a bow becomes a collectible that would not be shot. Wood is organic and it seems it must suffer degradation over time, even if it is well protected from the elements and fungal attack? At what age do you reckon is safe to be sure that the wood is still at +99% of it's original structural strength (assuming the bowyer has not over designed the bow)?

If I had a bow that was say 500 years old I would not even string it. Not because I might be afraid that it would break, but because of how stupid I would look if it broke :lol:

Cheers.... Rod

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Re: Old bows

#9 Post by Bill » Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:11 am

:smile: Hello Dennis,

I agree with what you say, as to the correct name for the wide bows. It's just an old habit from the sixties where by if a Scout broke a bow of such width, it's second life could have been "used as a paddle", the old leader would say, teaching us the how and why it broke in the first place.
Other than that, as you said, no good other than fire wood. I did cut a broken bow down to make some arrows, there was no poc around then, we used what ever we could lay your hands on, anything that had a good straight grain was made into an arrow. Our Rooster never was able to fly back then, I kept plucking his feathers but after being shown that the wing feathers were stronger, stopped pulling out tail feathers.
There was never a need for any big fletching, for it was all for just shooting at targets back then. :wink: :wink:(a boy with the bush at his back door is always wandering)

You mentioned the sale of 40 bows for a shotgun, was it an actual sale or a trade for. Must have been a truly awesome gun?

thanks again..

morganp

Re: Old bows

#10 Post by morganp » Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:13 am

Let's all go down the museum and burn everything our ancestors made that isn't functional? We don't need history or reference?
Amongst your sometimes ponderous declamations Dennis, you come up with some pearls of wisdom. And some nonsense. Even mundane bows from mundane bowyers are history and worthy of recording and respect surely. If you get any you think may break, please do not test to destruction, I will take them. (I will extend that to include rumpled banknotes, bent and dented golden coins, broken diamonds.)

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Re: Old bows

#11 Post by Stickbow Hunter » Tue Jul 15, 2014 4:35 pm

greybeard wrote:Do you know if they are in original condition or have been refurbished?
I'm not sure Daryl but Dennis will give us an answer to that I'd imagine.

Jeff

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Re: Old bows

#12 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:32 pm

Bill,
I have never heard that colloquial use of the term about paddle bows before. It is a new one on me.

Rod,
That is an interesting thought, however there must be a point where a bow becomes a collectible that would not be shot. Wood is organic and it seems it must suffer degradation over time, even if it is well protected from the elements and fungal attack? At what age do you reckon is safe to be sure that the wood is still at +99% of it's original structural strength (assuming the bowyer has not over designed the bow)?

If I had a bow that was say 500 years old I would not even string it. Not because I might be afraid that it would break, but because of how stupid I would look if it broke :lol:
I don't even try to estimate whether or not the bow is at any percentage of its original structural strength. I just bend them and see what happens. If they break, and two have (Jeff was there when they did) then bad luck. I certainly do not feel foolish. They would have broken in any case because they were faulty. The particular brand was not one of America's better makes and the Lemonwood was decidedly suspect in its grain structure compared to the better grade of Lemonwood used by other makers. They could easily have survived because they were not used much. Certainly, their exteriors did not indicate much usage. A 500 year old bow is one of morganp's museum pieces. It tells you something about its physical dimensions and material, but not what it was capable of. If I could not find any fault with the bow, I would bend it. If it was a water soaked bow, any bending would not tell one anything other than it was waterlogged and would take an expected set like wet spaghetti.

The only other way to guesstimate what such a bow was capable of would be to do some experimental archaeology as was done with the Mary Rose bows and what I intend to do with a Meare Heath reproduction on a full length stave of Yew I have here. The original artifacts don't tell us anything about capability. Only a working bow can do that.

morganp
What is nonsense to you is practical bowyery and archery to me. All the Mary Rose bows would have told us very little unless some were sacrificed by bending them and risking breakage. If they were not, then we would know little other than that they were of a certain range of lengths and girths and made from Yew. History already knew that much. I would not clear out all our museums because of my dictum. That ridiculously extrapolated comment was a nonsense on your part.

I spoke of no bow other than the bows in my collection. I am not an archaeologist. I am a bowyer. I am interested in bows which work, not bows which do not. I collect old bows and USE them to find out what they are capable of and how they were made and how they were tillered or their collection tells me nothing of bowmaking value. To that extent, I have similar aims to the archaeologist.

But I iterate, that a bow in MY possession which is not shootable is firewood. It tells me almost nothing of how it works and why it works.

What you do with your firewood is your own business, but you most certainly will not be getting any of mine. It is winter down here and quite cold. They have a practical use. There is no point keeping rubbish when there are many examples of exactly the same bow still existing which does work. If you talk about reference, then do it on a bow which works, not rubbish which does not.

Daryl,
These bows are almost entirely in original condition. Very few are in so good a conditon as those 4 Morgan bows. Many are pretty sad cosmetically and I use copies of old catalogues and archery magazines to see how they looked originally.

I am in the process of restoring most of them as much as I can, but only if they are shootable. No matter how nice the appear, if they show any sign of failure, they are and will be firewood. It is a great pleasure to me that most of these bows, mostly of commercial manufacture, were made so well that after 70+ years, they still shoot well even though the old shellac varnish is badly cracked and flaking off and the leather handle wrappings are so badly deteriorated that they too are flaking or peeling off.

I can do something about all those problems. But underneath all that cosmetic damage, the wood is still sound and shootable, even to the extend that perhaps around 40 of them have I have been successfully able to remove the often very serious string follow which many of them have from being left braced for protracted periods and get them back to almost factory spec. with an improvement in draw weight, often a bit above their nominal draw weight. I posted a thread on this process some weeks ago as you will remember.

So, the only refurbishing these bows have undergone is by myself that I know about. The Morgans came from a bloke who was not an archer, so those bows are original so far as he knows from his father. The trail went from Morgan to his father's shop, then on to him and to me finally. They never got to the selling stage from his father's shop because a couple of them still had their original swing tags on them. The chances of them being refurbished is small.

I do have a Bear Bush Bow which clearly has been refurbished because it had broken within the medial lamination of the lower limb and been glued together again. That bow too is shootable, but because of the nature of the repair, when braced, it has an exaggerated amount of tiller in the lower limb.

If it breaks, it will likewise be firwood, even though it is an interesting bow to look at. But I can see what it looks like in the many extant pictures of Bushbows on the internet, so I have no interest in keeping it otherwise. It will be salvagable only if I can apply a very thin laminate of Osage over the belly to stiffen it or the same of Hickory to the backing. There is no damage to either of the belly or backing lams. All the damage occurred to the medial lamination. If I can obtain another sound example, I will get rid of this one certainly.

(PS: I have just edited this post for spelling and grammatical errors. 2014 07 22)
Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

QVIS CVSTODIET IPSOS CVSTODES (Who polices the police?) - DECIMVS IVNIVS IVVENALIS (Juvenal) - Satire VI, lines 347–8

What is the difference between free enterprise capitalism and organised crime?

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Re: Old bows

#13 Post by RobHunter » Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:27 pm

Very classy looking bows

A bow that can't be used is a stick - isn't it?

Rob

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Re: Old bows

#14 Post by Hamish » Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:37 pm

Sweet bows! They look like they could have been made yesterday. Dennis is a fortunate man.
Hamish.

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Re: Old bows

#15 Post by Hamish » Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:09 pm

Not really sure about risking any old bow by testing. Those old osage bows though, I would trust them with my life, the quality of workmanship and condition of the wood looked pretty perfect. I wouldn't do the same with yew, mainly because unless it was stored exceptionally well, most of the old yew bows get dings in the sapwood.
The other problem is when some numbskull who knows nothing about archery comes along and draws an old bow, straight back to full draw or even way past its proper drawlength. Its a waste.
You can learn a lot from an old bow even if it is beyond shooting. Most of the well made bows of old that I have examined have had a higher level of sophistication in the craftsmanship, interesting nuances, details that would be a real shame for us to lose, even if they are only cosmetic. They tend to be leaner and less bulky than many modern examples. Sure you may not know how that individual old bow shoots, but it is easy to use it as a template for a bowyer to replicate how the design will perform. That is essentially what bowyers did from the Mary Rose artefacts. I am actually quite surprised that the people who tested and broke some of the original artefacts didn't have enough sense to know that the sapwood would have deteriorated in strength. It has always been common knowledge in general woodwork that yew sapwood is no where near as durable as heartwood.

Like artists, bowyers work can change stylistically over their careers.Materials change, designs evolve, once again it would be a shame to lose that information.
Hamish

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Re: Old bows

#16 Post by bigbob » Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:26 pm

Well said Hamish. My contribution would be minimal seeing as I deal mainly in glass bows though I have dabbled with a few self bows but I can readily appreciate the skill in working with all wood bows no matter what ilk.
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Re: Old bows

#17 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:23 pm

I do understand you reluctance Hamish, but I have well over 100 of them and I have tested them all to bend or shoot if I was able to draw it. Most of them I can shoot fine. Those which did break (2 only) I have kept some bits for patchwork such as dutchmen and the like. It just does not worry me whether they break or not. From a non-usable bow, I can tell how it was contstructed and often from what material, but that is all.

I suppose as museum pieces they could serve as a kind of 'show and tell' purpose, but if they don't work, I don't want them and any that do break will just be junked if I can't salvage some bits for repair work.

The most surprising thing is that all of these bows date from before 1950 and all are in sound condition. I have a few from the 1930s. Comparing them to wooden bows I have made in recent years, including Yew ELBs, there is no real visible difference apart from patina or flakey old varnish. I purposely look for the usual signs of damage or rot from age or anything which could be regarded as material deterioration and they just don't have it. They seem all to have been kept in an atmosphere which was preservative during their long and mostly unused lives and I cannot therefore see how they could deteriorate just because they are old. Rotting wood is rotting wood and it is obvious and starts from the outside.

About 40 of them have had their often heavy string follow removed and suffered no ill effect and turned out even better shooters. If old bows were as fragile as many seem to believe, I would never have been able to do what I have done with them what I did. Removing string follow using my method requires that I reverse bend the bow by 2 1/2 times the amount of the string follow. Not one of them has broken from this treatment. There many more to do to restore them back to as original as I can including the decals and grip wrapping. A couple of the old Ben Pearsons which had a laminated handle riser glued to the limbs popped of cleanly because of glue deterioration, but the wood was always sound, so I just glued it back on again and they are perfectly usable again now.

If I saw any kind of visible deterioration which was likely to jeopardise the bow, I would not draw it in case I was injured if it broke, not because it might break. If it was that bad, I would just junk it.

The only exception I can think of would be if the particular bow was a real rarity, such as one of only a few examples in existence. I would give it to an institution, but personally, I would not want it because it wasn't usable.

Different approaches to what is valuable I suppose. I just don't value old bows because they are old. And clearly, they don't deteriorate just from age alone. They must be subjected to some kind of destructive process to make them fragile enough to be at risk of breakage. But mine are only 60 to 80 years old and kept indoors instead of hundreds of years old and left in deteriorative environments like swamps or under water.

You are right on the mark about the relative bulk of many modern wood bows compared to those from the pre-fibreglass days. Many of my bows, especially the Yorks are very fine, especially at the tips where they rarely go bigger than 3/8" wide x 1/4" thick, and the handles of most of them both commercial and privately made rarely exceed 3 1/2" long x 1 1/2 inches deep and 3/4" wide.

I have commercial bows up to 60lbs with this sized handle. They seem to have been standardised around this size back then. Two of those old Osage Morgan bows are well over 70lbs and have miniscule handles which are even smaller than this. The limbs were usually no wider than 1 1/4 inches at the widest back then as well.

The old makers seemed to know how to get the most out of the least wood back then. I am seriously considering starting a thread which examines these old bows I have in as much detail as I can. It may help a lot of people to understand what can be done with a minimum of materials. The commercial makers clearly made use of their offcuts for handle risers and such and the mass produced bows from Hickory and Lemonwood were made from 5/8” and ½” boards.

I have also found out that there is Lemonwood and Lemonwood, with the best of it coming from the mountainous regions of Cuba and had a grey-bluish tinge to it. It was the very near equal of good Yew in cast but very cheap by comparison. Most of the York bows were made from this stuff.

Anyway, happy to have your thoughts on the matter.
Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

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Re: Old bows

#18 Post by Hamish » Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:18 pm

Hey Dennis, I pretty much agree with the overwhelming majority most of what you said, and I would definitely trust your experience. Its mainly other people whom I don't know how knowledgeable they are regarding bows.
I don't think the wood degrades by itself just because of age either. I think its more to do with storage. If they are stored well, out of heat, direct sunlight, the elements, and pests and fungi they certainly could be shot. Especially if the are retrained to bend, rather than just pulled to full draw after no use for 50 or more years.
I think it can be more of a problem with backed bows, old glues becoming brittle usually due to storage factors. Uncertainty of how storage, and aging effects early backings resin based backings like fibre and fortisan.
I have heard of quite valuable yew bows by Aldred, Buchanan etc being shot over 100 years after being made, sometimes repaired with patches on the back, or the belly. I do think that is taking it too far, at some point this type of bow should be retired from shooting, and kept for bowyers of the future to learn from.
Hamish.

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Re: Old bows

#19 Post by Chase N. Nocks » Tue Aug 05, 2014 3:02 pm

What a really great collection of bows there. Nice to bring them out and have a play.

BTW there was a photo of Denis in the background there that at first I thought it was G Gordon Liddy.... :lol:

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Re: Old bows

#20 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Wed Aug 06, 2014 1:00 am

Rod,

Code: Select all

Wood is organic and it seems it must suffer degradation over time, even if it is well protected from the elements and fungal attack?
None of the bows in my collection seem to have suffered anything like fungal attack or material degradation. I treat them just the same as a newly made bow and examine them for signs of breakage. If there are none, I brace them and give them a few cursory bends before full drawing and shooting them. If I cannot see a problem, I don't know any other way to detect signs of degradation. If I can't see them, there aren't any signs. I don't consider it reasonable to presume that wood degrades with age alone. But if the wood were kept in an environment which had high humidity, I would expect fungal invasion and there are usually signs of this which are clearly visible. None of mine show any kind of fungal growth on their exteriors, so I am happy with that.

Hamish,
but it is easy to use it as a template for a bowyer to replicate how the design will perform
I didn't think of that approach and I should have. My old bows are mostly the common commercially made US bows from before the fibreglass era.

I am most interested in what the common people used to shoot and hunt with. Those Osage bows above were most likely built for somebody wanting a custom bow or something very like that. For instance, my Ben Pearson catalogues from 1942 from Cornell publishing show that a standard hickory bow suitable for hunting (model 502) cost $6.00 and $8.00 for static recurved tips. A Ben Pearson custom Yew hunting bow (model 912) or Osage bow (model 902) up to 75lbs cost $37.50 + $5.00 for recurved tips, $4.00 for rawhide backing and $6.00 for silk backing. That was a huge difference. Other makers like York Archery, Bear Archery and others had similar disparities between standard and custom bows.

The better of the production bows were those made from Lemonwood (Degame), usually for target bows, but there was Lemonwood and there was Lemonwood; the difference being that from high altitudes in the Cuban mountains was superior to the lowland stuff and could be recognised (highland stuff) by a blue-greyish cast through the wood. York Archery seemed to be able to obtain this more consistently than the others and their Lemonwood bows seem to shoot consistlently quicker than the others weight for weight than those from Bear, Ben Pearson, Indian Archery, American Archery Co and Outdoor Sports Manufacturing Co. to name the commonest makers.

However, their design also seems to have made best use of the design work done by Hickman, Klopsteg and Nagler back in the 1930s and 1940s in having a close to narrow pyramid back profile, short flares and dead flat backs and bellies where some of the other manufactureres held to an older design with convexed surfaces back and belly. So, good wood with good design works best it seems.

Chase N Nocks,
Who is G Gordon Liddy?? I have never heard that name that I recall?
Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

QVIS CVSTODIET IPSOS CVSTODES (Who polices the police?) - DECIMVS IVNIVS IVVENALIS (Juvenal) - Satire VI, lines 347–8

What is the difference between free enterprise capitalism and organised crime?

HOMO LVPVS HOMINIS - Man is his own predator.

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Re: Old bows

#21 Post by bigbob » Mon Aug 11, 2014 3:59 pm

this topic and the photos of some old bows jogged my flimsy memory and I've recently dug out this flat bow I made a couple years ago as a young guy at our club was hankering after a longbow but was a little short of the readies.I have cleaned it up, slapped another coat of minwax on it and along with some bamboo arrows, given it to the young fellow to keep and use. It was worth it to see the pleasure he got from a bow that was just gathering dust in a corner.For the record it is a bow made from dimensions Dennis posted quite some time ago and is Masserenduba. It 's draw weight from memory is about 32# at 28'' and takes about 1 1/2'' -2'' of set. Its backed with rawhide obtained form 'doggie chews'
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Dennis La Varenne
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Re: Old bows

#22 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:57 am

That old bow is very much like a lot of old commercial US bows in my collection, especially the Yorks. Yours has a parallel section of limb above the handle which they did not have. Yorks had a straight taper, but the Ben Pearson bows tended to have an almost parallel section above the handle but with a long slow flare, especially his Hickory bows.

That lacing on the belly might be a bit abrasive.

The arrow shelf is interesting. Is it cut into the riser or is it a wedge glued onto the side? A few of the old bows had glued on shelves of various kinds. Cut in arrow shelves did not really come into use until the handles deepened a lot in the 1950s. William H. Folberth built recurved bows with risers where the shelf was cut almost to centre-shot back into the late 1940s. Here some pictures of one which is backed and faced with an early type of fibreglass.
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Dennis La Varénne

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bigbob
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Re: Old bows

#23 Post by bigbob » Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:22 am

Dennis that bow is one I made several years ago from dimensions you posted in an article on here. The shelf is a glue on wedge of leather. The board is Masseranduba which worked well and takes about 1 1/2'' - 2'' of set.
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Re: Old bows

#24 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:40 am

Aaaahh! I remember that now you mention it. If you want to, you can use that heat bending system I wrote up to take the string follow out or even put some reflex into the limbs. Leather wedges for arrow shelves was not uncommon in the pre-compound days, but they tended to be very small judging from those on bows in my collection. I think they thought of them as a sort of consistent arrow placement locator rathet than a rest as is the thinking these days.

Some of the older 'rests' were a bit of thin wood shaped into a sort of blade standing out at an angle from the arrow pass so that the arrow contact was the absolute minimum. Here are some pics of such a bow from my collection. It is a clarified calfskin backed Osage Orange left handed bow drawing a measured 83lbs @ 28" on my scales and 66"n-n. Jeff and I weighed it up at my place a while ago.

What do you think of them hooks???? The endless string came with it and is a 21-strander. I am thinking of using it for a spare tow rope.

Can I ask why you have put the lacing on the belly side of the handle of your bow? I would have thought it would be a bit harsh on the hands.
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Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

QVIS CVSTODIET IPSOS CVSTODES (Who polices the police?) - DECIMVS IVNIVS IVVENALIS (Juvenal) - Satire VI, lines 347–8

What is the difference between free enterprise capitalism and organised crime?

HOMO LVPVS HOMINIS - Man is his own predator.

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Re: Old bows

#25 Post by Hamish » Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:16 am

Very cool!

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Re: Old bows

#26 Post by bigbob » Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:16 am

those 'hooks' look to be almost right angles! Re the lacings they seem to fit right into the webbing area between finger and thumb base and don't bother me at all. Regarding the heat bending, it was my thoughts that the wood fibres would already have been violated so the heat bending would not re establish the integrity of the fibres? In short fail to hold their reflex? Your thoughts?
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Re: Old bows

#27 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:16 am

If it were my bow, I would give it a go most certainly, but I can understand any caution on your part. I don't think the violated fibres have much to do with it because you are re-moulding the matrix material which holds the fibres together rather than the fibres themselves. I have done over 40 bows in my collection of Osage, Yew, Lemonwood and Hickory and all have worked out well.

Those hooks ARE at right angles.
Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

QVIS CVSTODIET IPSOS CVSTODES (Who polices the police?) - DECIMVS IVNIVS IVVENALIS (Juvenal) - Satire VI, lines 347–8

What is the difference between free enterprise capitalism and organised crime?

HOMO LVPVS HOMINIS - Man is his own predator.

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Re: Old bows

#28 Post by bigbob » Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:21 am

I think in that case I will give it a try, probably with a heat gun and some vegetable oil? Guess that its a static 'curve then :biggrin:
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Re: Old bows

#29 Post by Dennis La Varenne » Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:02 pm

Yes, that is a static recurve alright. They don't move a bit. It is one hell of a bit of bowyery.

I used to use vegetable oil on the bows when I was heating them, but I gave it away because it didn't do anything and made a mess. I just took care NOT to keep the heat-gun on the wood for any time in the one spot. I do full length passes along the limb to within 4 inches of the nock at a rate of about 4 - 6 inches per second and the wood doesn't scorch. I do 100 passes on each limb - up and back is 2 passes - with the limb tied down down according to the formula, and then go on to do the other limb.

I always leave the bow to cool properly overnight, then when it is cold, I brace it up and leave it in repose for about an hour or so. If it is going to take any set again, it will take most of it from that period in repose. There is greater stress on a bow's limbs at bracing height than at full draw believe it or not. I can copy the relevant section from 'ARCHERY - THE TECHNICAL SIDE' if you want it. It has some maths (not my greatest talent) and graphs and so forth, but you can get the gist of it OK.
Dennis La Varénne

Have the courage to argue your beliefs with conviction, but the humility to accept that you may be wrong.

QVIS CVSTODIET IPSOS CVSTODES (Who polices the police?) - DECIMVS IVNIVS IVVENALIS (Juvenal) - Satire VI, lines 347–8

What is the difference between free enterprise capitalism and organised crime?

HOMO LVPVS HOMINIS - Man is his own predator.

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Re: Old bows

#30 Post by bigbob » Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:31 pm

I 'm afraid that maths and I are like positive and negative poles on a magnet, Dennis. Might not do this bow anyhow as it is backed with rawhide and don't feel inclined to also affect any repair work on it as well.Think the young fella will be happy enough with it as is, particularly as it is gifted and not a sale type deal.I will appreciate any further info re heat treating at a later date as iplan on doing an all wood recurve when I find the time.
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