Fletching length

[Fraser]

Hi all, I have just got back into archery after a 15 year absence ( my eldest son started, so I thought I'd have a go again). Any way I have a knew long bow and I'm having a fletching issue. Draw weight is 95# and draw length is 32", arrows are 34" long and 3/8 tas oak or I made some shafts of silver quandong and barrel tapered them. I have tried to tune them to the bow using 5" feathers with no luck.

However I made some arrows of 3/8 tas oak on stuck 190g ribteks on the end with 7" hand cut feathers, and they fly beautifully. All arrows weigh in between 800g and 900g. My question is will I need to use 7" fletching on my target arrows or can I drop back 6"? I'm pretty sure now that 3 x 5" feathers aren't going to work for me.

Any help would be appreciated,

Cheers,

Fraser.

[wishsong]

Fraser , sounds a bit like a tuning issue ...
can we get a bit more info
* is the bow cut to centre , does it have a shelf ? etc
* what is your draw length ?
* What spine arrows are you using ?

You can probably use less fletch with fp rather than b'heads but I still feel you'l get false readings ... 7" is an uber amount of fletch and will correct a large variation in form and tuning issues ... having said that so will 6" .....


I'd suggest that even with 5" feathers and field points and you are having no luck the arrows may be mismatched for the bow ...

[Fraser]

Wishsong, my draw is 32" and the bow is a woomera made by John Clark, it is not cut to center. I've tried shafts from 90lb thruogh to 120 lb, 115 to 120 seem to be the most stable. I make my own shafts so I have allready played around with different spines. There where some form issuses, the bow was making a mess of my fingers and when they got too cut up my release would suffer, I've since curred that problem and the fish tailing has improved, but it is still there. The reason I tried 7" fletching because the only info could find on arrows for heavy bows was the specs for livery arrows for warbows.

[Rich]

95# and 32"... I would blow my gasket trying to pull that. But I work in I.T.

Out of interest, where does a bare shaft end up in relation to your group?

[Fraser]

Either left or right with about a third almost square. I'm drawing to my jaw not my ear, incase you were woundering. I can shoot both ABA rounds with out any muscle soreness (fingers not so lucky). I didn't expect drawing a bow of that waight would be as easy as it is.

[wishsong]

Is it 68" or 70" long ... it maybe pretty twitchy given your draw length .

Still sounds like a tuning issue to me rather than anything that can be saved by feather length . Mind you , if you are getting good accurate ane repeatable results with 7" fletching then perhaps just have at it and shoot away ? [ i tend to over think things sometimes ]

Do you have access to a video camera ? Footage of you shooting might tell us a bit eh ? also , always enjoy watching people shoot the big bows too !

Watch those fingers eh ! its pretty easy to damage the nerves there ......

ps welcome to ozbow !

[Stickbow Hunter]

Welcome to Ozbow Fraser. I would perhaps try and shorten your draw a bit as you are always going to have problems getting suitable arrow shafts with such a long draw. Perhaps just draw to the corner of your mouth.

To me it seems like a tuning problem. What brace height are you using? Are you shooting split fingers or three under? How high is your nocking point?

Also get yourself a good thick glove (one you still have string feel with though) to stop hurting your fingers.

Jeff

[Fraser]

It's 70" long. I'm about to fletch some new shafts so I'll put 6" feathers on three shafts and see what happens, if its no good than 7" it is. I haven't got a video camera but if I can't get this sorted I'll see if I can borrow one. I haven't but it through a chronograph yet, but it's quite abit faster than my other bow that spits them out at 185 fps. I got around the finger problem by cutting the fingers out a pair of riggers gloves and putting them in the end of my shooting glove. I have noticed that all the damage had been to my index and ring fingers.

Thanks for the welcome, i've been reading posts for a couple of months, but never got around to registering.

Jeff, I am drawing to the corner of my mouth, I have been making my own shafts because I can't buy any that I can put broadheads on (not even the dreaded carbon ones), as a result my shafts are 34" long. If I draw to the ear I'll have to find a bow heavy enough to shoot broom sticks!

I think I've fixed the glove problem, I'm taking the kids to the range later in the week, so after shooting a hundred or so arrows I'll soon find out, If there is blood on the keyboard on Thursday night Then I've failed!

[Fraser]

Sorry nocking point is just over1/8" high and brace hight is 7" (recommended for the bow)

[Stickbow Hunter]

Thanks for the info Fraser.

A few suggestions and more questions.

When you say your nock point is 1/8" high what do you mean? Is it 1/8" above right angles to the shelf? I feel you should have it more like 3/8" above right angles if that is the case.

Also have you tried a lower brace height. I would suggest 6 - 6 1/4" for that bow regardless of the recommended brace height.

Jeff

[Fraser]

Thanks Jeff, nocking point is 1/8 above square, I'll reset the brace hieght and the nocking point tonight and give it a try in the back yard tomorrow. I have another bow of the same make and design as this one just lower poundage, and it works best with a brace of 7", so I just set this one up the same. Doesn't look like the right decision on hind sight.

[Fraser]

I changed the brace hight and nocking point to those that Jeff seggested and every thing works a lot better now. 6" feathers work better than 5". Have been getting some porpesing of the arrows on the odd occasion, I assume this is because of my top finger. Tried 3 fingers under but I can't hit the side of a barn like that!

[Stickbow Hunter]

That is good news but 5" feathers should be plenty. If you are still getting some porpoising you may need to play with the nocking point a little more and see if it helps. If it is only happening on the odd occasion it could be your release.

If you think you are putting a lot more pressure on one finger more than the others you might like to try this as I sometimes do (I shoot split also). Once you put your fingers on the string put the tip of your little finger and thumb together. It might feel a bit awkward at first but I find it evens out the pressure on each finger and helps with release problems. Worth a try perhaps.

All the best with getting it all sorted.

Jeff

[Fraser]

Thanks, I'll try that.

[Fraser]

Tried that trick of Jeffs with my release today, everything is now flying straight and true. Thanks for your help gents.

Regards,

Fraser

[Stickbow Hunter]

Good news mate.

Jeff