New toy
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New toy
Having never shot a long bow I thought I should give it a go so I purchased a nice Howard Hill Ruffed Grouse long bow with red elm and bamboo limbs, ebony riser and elk antler tips @53#.
My first shot was about 1" high @15m second shot 2" to the left @ 15m the next 2 were on the money and the shafts were touching each other.
Well the third shot I got a bit of string slap near the wrist and never having this happen with the recurve I didn't think much of it, the next shot WHACK on the arm again mmmmmm better get the arm guard out ( bright spark I am) well that fixed that problem.
Shooting well now I thought I would give the Flu Flu's a try.
First shaft had a bit of the fletching at the front peeling off but not a problem with the curve, so shoot away and a lovely cut appears along my hand.
Well you would have thought that I would stop at that but no not me did it again ( just call me Homer) so thought I would give you all a bit of a laugh at my expense.
Generally speaking though a nice little bow and a bit of practice and I will be out hunting in no time.
Cheers
Paul
My first shot was about 1" high @15m second shot 2" to the left @ 15m the next 2 were on the money and the shafts were touching each other.
Well the third shot I got a bit of string slap near the wrist and never having this happen with the recurve I didn't think much of it, the next shot WHACK on the arm again mmmmmm better get the arm guard out ( bright spark I am) well that fixed that problem.
Shooting well now I thought I would give the Flu Flu's a try.
First shaft had a bit of the fletching at the front peeling off but not a problem with the curve, so shoot away and a lovely cut appears along my hand.
Well you would have thought that I would stop at that but no not me did it again ( just call me Homer) so thought I would give you all a bit of a laugh at my expense.
Generally speaking though a nice little bow and a bit of practice and I will be out hunting in no time.
Cheers
Paul
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- Mick Smith
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Piggy
I thought you were a one bow man. It's good to have choices I reckon. I'll bet your Howard Hill is very nice indeed. One of the blokes at my local club just bought himself a new Howard Hill and it's a very nice bow indeed.
You will now be able to shoot in the Geelong Longbow Challenge coming up in a couple of weeks. You really ought to try to make it, as you would have a ball. It would be great to finally catch up with you there.
I'd be interested to see a couple of photos of your bow, if you have some.
Mick
I thought you were a one bow man. It's good to have choices I reckon. I'll bet your Howard Hill is very nice indeed. One of the blokes at my local club just bought himself a new Howard Hill and it's a very nice bow indeed.
You will now be able to shoot in the Geelong Longbow Challenge coming up in a couple of weeks. You really ought to try to make it, as you would have a ball. It would be great to finally catch up with you there.
I'd be interested to see a couple of photos of your bow, if you have some.
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
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Just a couple of comments after reading the above posts. I think if you are shooting a longbow (not the deflex/reflex semi-recurve type bows) then you will have the string contacting with your forearm. This is because of the way you should hold a longbow as opposed a recurve and also the longbow has a lower brace height.
I know I have said it numerous times before but we have been using Fastflight and now Dyna Flight flemish twist strings on our bows for 15 - 17 years and have not had any problems. We even use them on very fine tipped self bows and no reinforcing. IMO a properly made flemish twist string from the modern materials will not harm your bow or lession its life. Remember the linen strings of old were also non stretch - just no where near as strong as strings made from the modern materials.
Jeff
I know I have said it numerous times before but we have been using Fastflight and now Dyna Flight flemish twist strings on our bows for 15 - 17 years and have not had any problems. We even use them on very fine tipped self bows and no reinforcing. IMO a properly made flemish twist string from the modern materials will not harm your bow or lession its life. Remember the linen strings of old were also non stretch - just no where near as strong as strings made from the modern materials.
Jeff
- Mick Smith
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piggy
Drop in next time you're passing. We'll have a chat over a cuppa.
It's funny, I've often experienced the same thing when first testing a new bow. I don't know why, but they shoot like a dream initially and you think you've finally managed to find a "magic" bow that shoots straight. The only problem for me, has been the "honeymoon" only lasts a short time and then I'm shooting back in my normal mediocre way. I don't know why this is so, but it happens to me time after time. At least it proves the bow is accurate, even if the shooter isn't.
I manage to hit my bow arm with the string much more often with my longbows than what I ever do with my recurves. I think this is partly due to the lower brace height of my longbows, plus I tend to cant them more than when shooting my recurves.
I really like your new bow!
Mick
Drop in next time you're passing. We'll have a chat over a cuppa.
It's funny, I've often experienced the same thing when first testing a new bow. I don't know why, but they shoot like a dream initially and you think you've finally managed to find a "magic" bow that shoots straight. The only problem for me, has been the "honeymoon" only lasts a short time and then I'm shooting back in my normal mediocre way. I don't know why this is so, but it happens to me time after time. At least it proves the bow is accurate, even if the shooter isn't.
I manage to hit my bow arm with the string much more often with my longbows than what I ever do with my recurves. I think this is partly due to the lower brace height of my longbows, plus I tend to cant them more than when shooting my recurves.
I really like your new bow!
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
Thanks Mate,
I will let you know when down your way next.
I'm shooting a 640gn shaft with my 59# = 10.84grains per inch with my black widow I am concerned that shooting a new bow will upset my accuracey between bows.
53# x 10.84 = 574.52
If I shoot an arrow which weighs 574gns should that arrow have a similar fligth path.
Just a thought but I want to know is it worth testing this out to see ?
Cheers
Paul
I will let you know when down your way next.
I'm shooting a 640gn shaft with my 59# = 10.84grains per inch with my black widow I am concerned that shooting a new bow will upset my accuracey between bows.
53# x 10.84 = 574.52
If I shoot an arrow which weighs 574gns should that arrow have a similar fligth path.
Just a thought but I want to know is it worth testing this out to see ?
Cheers
Paul
- Mick Smith
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- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:09 pm
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piggy
I usually do a lot of stuffing around to ensure all my bows shoot pretty well in the same place. I try lots of different arrows before I settle on a combination that gives the results I'm looking for.
Sometimes I'll change my style slightly, like canting the bow more to help achieve the same point of impact as my other bows. They must shoot where I'm looking. I'm not happy until this is what happens. Most times it's pretty straightforward.
The only way of making this happen is good old "trial and error". I sometimes change the weight of the points. Othertimes I will cut the shafts down slightly to stiffen the spine. If a set of arrows simply won't perform out of one bow, they usually will out of another. That's one advantage of owning a heap of bows.
In my experience with longbows, you need an arrow that's spined spot on for the bow. If it's too stiff, it will shoot to the left and if it's too soft it will shoot anywhere, but most often to the right.
As far as the trajectory is concerned, I think you will find that the longbow will shoot noticably lower at all ranges when compared to your recurve of the same draw weight. I think it would be a mistake to go for lighter arrows in an attempt to compensate to get the same trajectory. Longbows and heavy arrows are a good way to go. You might have to just get used to the different trajectories by shooting them both often.
Mick
I usually do a lot of stuffing around to ensure all my bows shoot pretty well in the same place. I try lots of different arrows before I settle on a combination that gives the results I'm looking for.
Sometimes I'll change my style slightly, like canting the bow more to help achieve the same point of impact as my other bows. They must shoot where I'm looking. I'm not happy until this is what happens. Most times it's pretty straightforward.
The only way of making this happen is good old "trial and error". I sometimes change the weight of the points. Othertimes I will cut the shafts down slightly to stiffen the spine. If a set of arrows simply won't perform out of one bow, they usually will out of another. That's one advantage of owning a heap of bows.
In my experience with longbows, you need an arrow that's spined spot on for the bow. If it's too stiff, it will shoot to the left and if it's too soft it will shoot anywhere, but most often to the right.
As far as the trajectory is concerned, I think you will find that the longbow will shoot noticably lower at all ranges when compared to your recurve of the same draw weight. I think it would be a mistake to go for lighter arrows in an attempt to compensate to get the same trajectory. Longbows and heavy arrows are a good way to go. You might have to just get used to the different trajectories by shooting them both often.
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
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