Ozbow

Gday,

when you have more than one bow, do you use the same arrows in multiple bows and adjust for differences in shooting?

also, do members here frequently set up multiple arrow "systems" for use with the same bow? perhaps for target, stumping and hunting?

?

All my arrows are the same weather i'm target shooting or hunting,their is only 4lbs differnce in the bows.

I have three sets low poundage bows 58 to 65 next set go in most of my bows 65 to 75 and the last set for 80lb seven bows recurve and longbow in the middle set and they all work fine all bows are within 7 lb if I get hankering to just shooting a favourite for some time I make the arrows for that bow eg Gringa 70lb those arrows work fine out of the other bows the only real adjustment is a fast recurve shooting flatter and three dozen arrows at different distances sorts that out. I am far more inconsistent than my bow tuning and arrow setups

Fanto wrote:Gday,

when you have more than one bow, do you use the same arrows in multiple bows and adjust for differences in shooting?

also, do members here frequently set up multiple arrow "systems" for use with the same bow? perhaps for target, stumping and hunting?

?

Um Yes to all of the above Except for the adjustment part.

I colour code the Kids arrows and my own. I also have 3 sets of arrows that suit all my bows.

Interchangeability is a high priority. I will never be the worlds best Archer and have no intention to aspire to be, so that pedantic detail to gain that super perfect edge on performance isn't a priority just functional.



Hazard

I use the same arras in all my composite longbows - 59# up to 70#. I use a lighter spine set with my self bows.

Jeff

I have bows ranging from 43-53# and can use the same sets. i try to set up my woods the same as my alloys for AA competition. With the alloys I use the same 1916s for long distance target, clout and field. My clout arrows have much lower cut flights. I use four flights for hunting, target, field and clout with heavy arrows and 175 grain points.

As a gap shooter I could record different gaps but there is more variability caused by altitude, air temperature and the amount of water vapour to my gaps than the different results for different bows. The art of longbow is the ability to adjust after that first shot to my mind but practice to judge distance and conditions to make the most of that first shot.

Kevin

Am I the only one to buy multiple sets of arrows just because I love tinkering...? I've even been known to completely re-fletch sets because I get bored with a colour pattern.

My wife has always told me boys just love accessory sports (fishing, golf, archery.....etc). I can't walk into a tackle store or archery shop without walking out again with some little (or big) nick nack or other. To go with my various sets of arrows I've got almost a shops worth of nocks, field points, feathers, wraps, etc etc.

Got to love it.


Cheers, T

got plenty of sets of arrows and the other bits and pieces. I make arrows for fun.....but essentially they are made to the same formula. I try to carry and use only one set at a time.

Kevin

littlejohn59 wrote:Yes you can shoot the same arrows out of different bows. So long as you are happy with near enough is good enough and not expecting good reults.

I can't agree with you on that one. My arrows fly beautifully!

As for not expecting goods results; from my field archery days I have many gold dust collectors from club through to national level comps. Also I can't really say how many animals I've killed but it is hundreds.

Jeff

I would have to agree with Jeff.
Tuning arrows is as much about nodes and waves as it is spine.
At AA competition I can beat or be really competitive against the other longbowers using alloys with the same formula wooden arrows even if using different bows.

Kevin

Evening All

Fanto wrote:Gday,

when you have more than one bow, do you use the same arrows in multiple bows and adjust for differences in shooting?

Suggestions.

Learn/understand the Physics involved with arrow/bow combinations.

It is probably smarter to start with arrows design for the more "powerful" bows to minimise the chances of experiencing compressive arrow failure on launch.

longbowinfected wrote:Tuning arrows is as much about nodes and waves as it is spine.

Stop acting intelligently, Kevin. The truth is it is all magic and secret information.

The only advantage I can see to having Multiple Bows shoot the same set of Arrows is if the Bows shoot the Arrows to the same Point Blank Range and maintain the same Gap / Trajectory to as far as you want to shoot them. To me it makes sence if you must switch from Bow to Bow to have them Set Up / Tuned to shoot as near as possible.

My 43# RER Arroyo and 57# Brigalow Selfbow shoot the same Arrows to within a 2 Yard Point Blank Range. Both Bows where set up to shoot 3DAAA Trad Div and Hunt, 30 Yards Max. I had to mess around with the Number of Strands in both Bows Strings and each Bow uses a different String Material. I also had to Pad out the RER's Centreshot.

I was reasonably convinced that my new 45# Grozer Magyar would shoot these Arrows as well but a bit of fine Tuning revealed the Arrows need a little more Mass up front to weaken the Spine a Tad and they shoot Flatter out of this Bow then the above 2. Initial indications are that the EBay Asiatic I have will shoot the same Arrows as the Grozer but they will have different Point Blank Range, Flatter again - Both these Bows need different Mass but the same Spine Arrows if I where to set them up to Shoot the same Point Blank and hopefully the same Gaps as the RER and 57# Selfbow

regards Jacko

Yep Perry a dozen areas and your on the game as for gap etc I don't do it just let the grey custard do that I just bore a hole in it and shoot

Your right Mate, but the big disadvantage to setting up my Bows for 3D Comp / coincidently most Trad Shoots and therefor a Point Blank at those Games Max Range means that a great big Hand full of Bow and Arrow Head are unavoidably in the middle of my sight picture, Its a bit hard not to see them so I gotta Gap out past 30 Yards.

regards Jacko

I agree, the longer distances is where I notice the drop off or hit high usually about 20 mtrs or just before.

If I gap shot I think it would be a measured difference but after about a round or so I find my head seems to adjust. Long distances I need to have a couple of rounds to get the trajectory imprinted in the peanut.

Hazard