Carbon or Stainless ??

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Coach · #1 Post by **Coach** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:31 pm

OK fellas , tell me what you would prefer in a knife .
Carbon or Stainless ?

Mick Smith · #2 Post by **Mick Smith** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:02 pm

Coach

Even though I realise that stainless probably won't hold as good an edge as carbon steel, I prefer stainless for the simple reason that every knife that I've ever owned that wasn't stainless ended up going rusty eventually.

One of the things I like about traditional bowhunting is the fact that there's not too many things that can rust on you, particularly when hunting in wet conditions for long periods. Basically there's just your broadheads that might rust and you can even buy them in a stainless if you want. I like the idea that your gear will still be in good condition when you want it and not some rusted up piece of rubbish. I put brass field points on my target arrows for the same reason.

All my current knives are stainless and most have never seen any oil in their lives. They're also very sharp.

I hate rust!!

Mick

gundy · #3 Post by **gundy** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:14 pm

Go D2.

Its a good 'stainless' carbon...

longbowinfected · #4 Post by **longbowinfected** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:18 pm

one reason why I love my stainless Victorinox Swiss Tool. Years later, as good as the day I was given the Knife /multi type tool.

The most functional all terrain knife I have. Never let me down.

The most beautiful knife I own is a two to three hundred year old gold inlaid damascus steel Northern Indian tribal blade with inlaid scabbard. Beautiful. Sharp edge. Cannot touch or handle it without having to give it a coat of lanolin. Would not take it anywhere.

Kevin

Crowcreek2 · #5 Post by **Crowcreek2** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:20 pm

..I will second Gundy - the best knife blade material available in my opinion.

Cheers.

Steven J · #6 Post by **Steven J** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:27 pm

Good question Coach. I would prefer carbon, but the most important aspect to a knife is the edge geometry.

Well alloyed carbon steel develops a dull patina which prevents flakey rust from forming. On the other hand a good Chinese Cucumber Alloy can form a lovely serated edge as the rust flakes away

A working knife gets too much use to go rusty. It is not just the edge holding ability that I like, but the hardness of the steel that makes it easier to sharpen to a keen edge.

I must confess that my most used knife is a locking Swiss army knife (which is of course stainless) that I have owned and carried since I was 12 (I am now 31). I have had it so long that I even remember having to 'lend' this knife to the Security Guard at Mascot Airport when seeing Dad off as a youngster. I still carry this knife on my belt everyday and it has done some good work.

Nephew · #7 Post by **Nephew** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 6:54 am

In the book "Hannibal" by Thomas Harris, the character Dr. Lecter, is quite the knife expert (as you could well imagine!). At a gun show where he is buying a crossbow and some knives he asked a knife merchant for carbon-steel bladed knives, and is told you'll only get them at flea-markets, etc. The merchant goes on to explain that carbon knives are very highly sought after(the merchant keeps all he finds, he does not sell carbon based steel knives on), and that you are able to maintain an edge on THE BOTTOM OF A SAUCER!! Is this true or is it just a writer using Poetic License?
(In the end he buys a Spyderco drop-point skinner, a butchers knife, a filleter, and a bone saw! Wonder what kind of activities he had planned for his weekend? He had intended having a FBI. supervisor over for dinner{the sort of invitation one can't refuse, if you know what I mean

}, so I'll leave it to you imagination...

)

Coach · #8 Post by **Coach** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 10:11 am

If you look at the bottom of a coffee cup or saucer , you will see it is unglazed and very much like a ceramic sharpening stone

gundy · #9 Post by **gundy** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 10:53 am

Yep, and it works too.

Same with the top rolled edge of a car window when down...

longbowinfected · #10 Post by **longbowinfected** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:28 am

where else in the world would you learn handy stuff like this?
thanks

Kevin

Steven J · #11 Post by **Steven J** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:04 pm

Gundy,
Never even thought of the car window. Sounds reasonable. All the bowyers on here will know how quicky fiberglass dulls the edge on tools, so it follows that it must also be able to sharpen a blade.

Steve

Nephew · #12 Post by **Nephew** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:48 pm

Does this only apply to carbon steel, or stainless as well, Coach? Have anyone else here read this book, btw? It's a bloody beauty, I reckon!

Coach · #13 Post by **Coach** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:52 pm

Both , Moreton

Jaydo · #14 Post by **Jaydo** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:55 pm

i'd say carbon for sure, no more stainless knives for me,

yeah moreton ive got that book too its great, i scared my friend so good, he was on my computer playing a game, so i started reading out pages from the book whilst sharpening my bowie knife,

so the ceramic on the bottom of a saucer actually works hey, might see if mums got a spare one and try it out, you say it had to be one of the good ones yeah ?

Coach · #15 Post by **Coach** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:00 pm

Any cup will work

Ceramic is harder than most steels , so it will eat steel , and thats why stones are made from it and you pay heaps for a "ceramic" stone

When really you can use a cup

Jaydo · #16 Post by **Jaydo** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:20 pm

ive hear japanese water stones are the best to use,

i will try the ceramic next time i sharpen my knives,

thanks for that coach.

Nephew · #17 Post by **Nephew** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:23 am

Jaydo,It was reading that book that I first heard of treestands, or hunting deer with bows at all, really. Ever checked out that Styker crossbow he bought? Nice backstrap recipe, too.