Ozbow

I like that kitchen knife; should be real handy. At 7mm thick that sure is a hefty blade on your mates knife.

Jeff

Nice work Rob! It's good making your own gear and it most certainly is a great idea to protect your bows and arras when travelling. Thanks for sharing your builds with us.

Jeff

Wow that system seems to work extremely well Daryl. I might have to look into one myself.

Jeff

Very bad service!!!

Jeff

After doing my cap and cresting I just use a clear varnish and wipe on the full length of the arrow with a piece of rag. The varnish I have used was not water based. I hope you get it sorted so your footings keep on looking good.

Jeff

I've never tried that so can't help with regards to using it. With 3Ds I have just used a silicon spray and give the arrows a wipe on the tip end after every couple of targets. It stops the target burn to large degree.

Jeff

G'day Tradjectory, I imagine you would have perhaps a 30" or more draw length so the longer the bow the better I would think. Bow design will really play a part when such long draw lengths come into play. If your draw length is 30 or more inches I would suggest a composite longbow of 70". ...

Ok thanks for the info. Hopefully it will help with the darkening. I have Osage Orange self bows and they have gone brown with age but still a beautiful wood.

Jeff

UV treating? Is that some sort of finish?

Jeff

Another good one mate. Osage is very nice just a shame it goes brown with age.

Jeff

G'day Cam, I have always made my own shafts from Oregon Pine. You can usually pick up used boards from old buildings etc. In relation to what boards make what spine it is hit and miss. :lol: Usually a heavier board with nice tight grain will make higher spined shafts BUT not always. The diameter you...

Interesting design. Those thick tips would rob a bit of performance I guess.

Jeff

So ridiculous!!!

Jeff

For any Bear Archery collectors or someone just wanting an old bow from the 1940's & 1950's era, I have up for discussion numerous Bear recurves, both 'Kodiak' and 'Grizzly' and also a 1948 'Bush Bow' which is a wood composite bow made with two Hickory or Ash lams and an Osage Orange belly lam. ...

Good onya Matt.

Jeff

In the photo it looks like the handle has splits but its the grain and finish has a real 3D effect. I actually thought those lines were joins in a laminated handle lol. The blade has a scotch brite belt finish that is super quick and easy to do and gives a good working knife finish. It gives a very...

Good work; I like the satin finish on the blade and the tone of the handle. Always good making our own equipment; well done.

Jeff

Good article. You would certainly appreciate each one you made.

Jeff

A pretty ridiculous situation there Matt.

Jeff

Wow that is not even in the same paddock weight wise. Not good that is for sure.

Jeff

Same to you and the members of the forum and we hope 2022 is a good year for all.

Jeff

Looks like it would do its job well.

Jeff

Daryl, Queensland Silver Ash [Flindersia Bourjotiana] makes a very good bow. It is pretty much white in appearance. I made quite a lot of bows with it many years ago now.

Jeff

metalhead wrote: ↑Thu Nov 04, 2021 5:31 pm Thanks mate. I showed this knife to a work mate , he took it off me asked how much then handed me some cash. I didn't get to touch it again. He is a knife collector so I was pretty happy with myself.

Good stuff.

Jeff

Nice work; it looks really good.

Jeff

I would image that the aforementioned negative comments would be related to the Hill Style bows that had a degree of set-back, making it a little harsher to shoot. I believe that if the limb timing is correct back set should have little effect on the feel of the bow. In the 1980's numerous bowyers ...

I watched both videos Daryl and they were good. In the first one the fella did get things, the deflex/reflex, back to front as you say and it is one of my pet hates. :lol: He also didn't explain well why a bow with setback/reflex is faster than a straight limb or string follow bow, all things being ...

What brand do you recommend? I’m thinking 125 grain Tusker Javelins or met a guy that swears by the ribteks. I use Ribteks but they aren't available much anymore as their manufacture was ceased some years ago now. The Tusker would be fine as would the Outbacks that Bodie mentioned. All the best wit...

Good to hear and all the best with the group.

Jeff

I would suggest you stick with a cut on contact two blade head, especially using 45lb. They will give you the best penetration with a properly tuned bow and arrow combination.

Jeff